94BANSHEE

no, i broke a ring and i think there isnt any cylinder damage. so im looking for a piston kit option. ill hone the cylinders though any other thoughts?

hi guys! well, i havent been around my forum for a while and i have also been away from my banshee for 6 months coz im away right now working. im coming home soon and i have been out of the piston loop for years. the last set that was in it was 2 years ago. wiseco pro-lites at 0.20 . now my brother, who regularly mstarts my shee while im away noticed a couple broken rings. so the shee is down. these are my questions : 1. should i look for a good replacement top-end or should i just get rings?? 2. if i get a piston kit, what are the hot new istons out there? im sure the wiseco pro-lites are still popular. but what about Vito's ? and has there been any other newcomers to the piston forefront lately? 3. i dont have a big racing engine and i dont race it, but i still want speed! i only have T5 Toomey's, stock head, cylinders and engine, except for the 0.20 over bore. so would the Vito's help THAT much more anyway (IF they are better) over the wisecos, since my engine isnt modified that much any how? i think pro-lites are the cheapest to get and the best bang for your buck. just i want to explore all my options. thanks guys!!!!!

hi guys! >>>>>>> PLEASE DISRGARD THE TITLE! im looking for a new set of 0.20 wiseco pistons. actually the whole kit if i can, i just wanted to ask here before i looked elsewhere becuase someone may have a set they arent using please pm or leave a message here. im not at home at the moment, so i cant order from shops around my home, only online. then when i get back to my hometown a month later, ill have them ready to go thanks

so on a fairly stock engine, i run stock head,cylinders , except cylinders are 0.30 over, pipes and timing plate. would it be a SAFER choice to get the V-FOrce 2's instead of 3's ????????? would i see any reason to get the 3's for more top speed?? is there a HUGE difference??

where do u get those carbon fiber ones?

well, i prefer a brand new one if i can find it. thx though

looking for a nice shiny black one for my bike

hi guys. im getting ready to bore my cylinders to 0.30 over, but i was just trying to get an idea on how much on average you guys pay?? also, if there is anyone on these forums that can do it, fairly cheap and nicely done?? thx

hi guys. well i have a set of these that are in excellent condition, has minimum hours on them and i want to possibly sell. i was thinking on getting some V-force's. i just wanna get an idea what some people would HONESTLY pay for these, CONSIDERING they are next to new and keep in a low-hour ridden banshee ??? honest numbers?

hi. well if u dont have an impact gun, can u still get it off manually? i mean is it possible to wrench/power bar tighten that bolt until it pops off??

hi guys. i have seached and read about pulling the flywheel off. at the moment, im away from home working, so i was going to get my brother to pull it off for me. i want to give him the correct order of directions to follow. i have a new puller tha was never used. also i found a post by a member here. i think it will help me. here is what the post says followed by questions i have: "BTW I had to do both my RZ and Banshee flywheel last month and neither one of the damn things wanted to break loose. Do yourself a favor and soak that bitch in your favorite flavor of penetrating oil (WD40, lizard piss, whatever) for a few days before you even try to take it off. If the engine is out just turn it up on the right side, remove the nut and soak the center of the flywheel so the juice can work it's way onto the tapered part of the crank. If the motor is still in the frame, get a 2' piece of 2x4, turn the fuel off, and lift the left side of the quad...use the 2x4 to support the right side on one of the frame rails and you'll have the flywheel pointed straight up; same deal soak the piss out of it and it'll be way easier to get off. Oh yeah, when you get a puller don't just torque the f*ck out of it, it's like a pulley remover or bearing remover; you just want it pretty snug, then smack the end of it with a hammer, tighten & repeat. Too much torque and it will strip the fine threads." 1. so first, i should oil ALL the threads including INSIDE the puller threads. but this member said SOAK them. wouldnt soaking the flywheel, may risk getting oil onto the stator? 2. i know to turn the puller counter-clockwise. but do you tighen the puller ALSO after hand screwing it in the flywheel? if so, what torque? 3. next, do u then screw the long bolt with a socket/rachet or power bar?? 4. do u have to hit the end of the long bolt with a hammer to pop off the flywheel OR does it pop off after tightening and tightening the long bolt?? sorry if some or all of these questions are wrong? its just i want to make sure he doesnt damage anything. it will also help me as well for the future reference. thanks a lot!!! any tips will help!

like i said in the description. i need on in excellent or new condition. pm me if anyone has one Or email: [email protected]

they are really really heavy!! anyone else notice this. mine are the 6ply, so that be why. are the 4 ply rears MUCH lighter ?? i love how they look and are kinda low-pro on the rim. not too bulgy. just curious if the 4 ply rears are any lighter? thx

^^^ I dont use rubbers! haha just kidding! i had to respongd to that one! thanks for the help!

hi. im gonna do a top-end job soon, and i was wondering, is it worth buying new ones? i mean, the existing ones i have now, which are wiseco from a previous end job, seem to be fine. the reason i ask is coz also some dealers sell the complete kits WITHOUT the bearings for 20$ cheaper or somethin like that. i know i should do it all right the first time when opening the shee up, and i try and do that. but this area im not sure about. has anyone used the OLD bearings with new pistons and had any problems ??

well, of course i want as much horsepower as possible, but i DONT want to go around porting and stuff i have no expereince doing. i know it may be easy for some, but i opt to stay away from that part. my banshee is reliable and i can do most bolt-on / top-end jobs alone, but nothing too difficult. i got stock carbs which i fooled around with a lot. but as far as , big-bore kits , porting etc. i dont want to try it right now. i prefer "BOLT-ON" power and easier modifications to try and boost my horsepower. but i understand it will be minor at that. so is there any chart that lists the performances of the degrees? i mean minus/plus and the different settings?

one great answer! > 5.6 gallon IMS tank! i got one! greates thing i bought!! only bad thing, stickers WILL NOT stick to the sides of them

hi guys! have a fairly stock banshee EXCEPT for Toomey T-5's and 0.20 bore which is going to 0.30 over. i always ran Wisecos also. i have stock head, air box, BUT the rad valve complete assembly are Pyramids not the V-force ones that are so popular. My stator is also rewound to 260watts by Alba racing, but i have the stock timing plate and stock flywheel with no modifications done to either. now, im in the process of a top-end job, putting in 0.30 pistons, but i was wondering about the timing. i want to get some added horsepower if possible. now, what do u guys usually run in this department? i've been away from the forums awhile so i want to get up to date on this. i seen these degree keys but i heard they break easy. do most people here run: ONLY the timing plate? ONLY the degree key? OR BOTH? CAN u even RUN BOTH together? sorry about the questions if they sound like a newbie. also, how do i know WHICH degree to set my plate to, if i get a plate? thanks a lot guys!!!! i really need some good info here!

is ur timing plate brand new? also, u willing to part with JUST the plate??

NEW OR EXCELLENT ONE, ANYONE ??

hi guys. still looking for a excellent to new stator black cover, only 2 guys pmed me, i asked to see some pics but no one sent. if its not new, i'd like to see it if i can. a close up pic or something like that. still looking??

well, i see what your saying. i guess im kinda picky. but its just that i dont wanna make a silicone gasket and my luck after filling it with 5.00 a bottle oil, it'll leak some place. thats my luck in the past. then take it off and start over. just doing it safer i guess. so, if need be i'll buy a new one at a dealer. that is if no one has an extra. i'll give this forum some more time before giving up. anyone?

yeah exactly fixitrod. its the shipping that kills ya. especially a gasket that they can slip in a medium sized envelope and costs 1.50. they pocket the rest by charging 5 or 6 dollars. anyway, thats why im here, not looking on a website. again, if anyone has a spare they wanna sell. ?? pm me or leave a message. thanks!!

thanks for the reply, but if i can find one it be easier for me. im not much of a do-it-myself kinda guy. i'd rather put a new one on and forget about it. thanks for the advice though. anyone still?

nope, none there. checked. i was hoping someone has a spare one around?? yamaha wants to charge me 20.00 for one. anyone?