dlnoss

Yes you could gain the volume back by widening the bowl and narrowing the squish area. I don't know if you could gain the needed volume without making the squish area too narrow. Might end up pretty pipey. -David

I don't make domes that fit the Trinity head, sorry. I am broadening my dome inventory though. Besides domes for the stock heads, I do Puma, Cougar, Super Cub, DMX, some sled domes, and Cheetah PV domes in the next week or two. -David

Modifying an existing, stock stroke dome to work with the stroker is difficult if you want to maintain a decent combustion chamber. The exception might be if you started with, say, a 24cc stock stroke dome and wanted to end up with maybe a 18cc stroker dome. You can carve out the squish area to accomodate the 2mm extra deck height but there won't be much 'bowl' left. You can machine the bowl to add the necessary volume back into the dome but now the spark plug will be hanging down into the combustion chamber. I know people do modify domes to work but they usually start out with a large volume dome. It's certainly easier (for me anyway) to just make it the way you want it from the start. Just my opinion, -David

Sorry, I don't know of one. You might try K&N's web site.

Thanks for the complements. If it's detonating, I'd do something pretty quick. Retard the timing or add some octane. Sometimes they don't detonate for very long. -David

It's YA3502 -David

20cc domes would be fine. 19cc would be on the edge, particularly if you advance the timing. -David

The 'Performance Trixx' heads were very early heads that used longer studs like the PD head. They are compatible with regular PD or Noss domes. -David

Yes, if you can get a good measurement of how far the edge of the piston is above the cylinder at TDC, and know what style piston you have (Blaster or Banshee). -David

Like some of the others suggested, I would do the billet impellar and engine ice first. -David

I'd worry a little about a stock crank with 18cc and +8 timing at sea level. -David

New ones are $58.50 + shipping after the BHQ discount if you don't find some used ones. -David

From memory, I think from the nut flat to the bottom surface of a stock head is 0.900" -David

I don't like it when me or my products are insulted and have built my business on customer service and satisfaction. I do realize that there are some customers who can't be satisfied and I hope they buy their stuff from somebody else. I'll bend over backwards to help people if they want it. But,,, all that aside,,, If you haven't bailed on the head yet, the problem can probably be fixed pretty easily and could be caused by a shallow acorn nut, a longer than normal stud, a stud that isn't threaded into the cylinder far enough, a damaged nut or washer or something else. A Parker stat-o-seal is thicker than the copper washers and has an oring vulcanized into the center. Let me know if you want to try that and/or if you can't find them locally. -David

If you have a problem with my product, usually the best thing to do would be to contact me about it instead of bashing the product, me, and my machining abilities. It makes it a lot more fun for me to help you. Send the head back for a refund if you want. If you haven't beaten it all up, I'll refund your money. Might want to be sure what the problem is so you don't have the same problem with the next head, whatever brand you buy. -David

The discount is 10% You can get it by entering the coupon code BHQ on the web site or you can call and order telling us you are a BHQ member. -David

New or used? New ones are $175.50 + shipping after the BHQ discount. That's without domes but with acorn nuts, washers, and orings. -David

That's an unusual place for a leak. I normally replace the orings when I take the head off but if you want to get just those two, I can give you a part number that should be good in an auto parts or hardware store. Let me know what they look like when you take the head off if you don't mind. -David

I've heard Vitos domes will fit but don't have first hand experience with them. -David

I can't see the pictures very well but unless your timing is advanced a lot, you shouldn't detonate in Oklahoma with 21cc domes and 91 octane. I would run 93 octane if you can get it. -David

With the BHQ discount, new ones are $58.50 + shipping if you don't find some used ones. -David

No, it isn't normal. They are supposed to seal it in a hot nickel acetate (sp) solution (I think it's nickel acetate). If they don't seal it properly, the color changes. -David

As long as you are okay with it. It probably was a sealing problem. -David

Wow, that was black? How long ago did you get it? What do you wash it with? (Nothing should do that other than maybe an acid bath) I had to change anodizers a while back because the original one went out of business. PM me if you want to do something about it. It might be cool if you wanted one that color. -David

I don't want to hijack this thread but want to clear up the misconception that two-piece heads are prone to leaking. A properly manufactured and installed two piece head is no more likely to leak. When sealing washers and flanged acorn nuts are used, the 'stud' orings aren't even necessary. I include them because some people still want to use them. Both the one-piece and two-piece heads rely on the washers and acorn nuts to prevent coolant from leaking up through the studs. I'm not saying anything bad about the Chariot head....I don't know anything about it. I DO know that I have sold between 500 and 1000 two-piece heads every year for over ten years and have only needed to help a few people with any problems. -David