Eric_C1

Yep, if PO said that's what hes been running in it for awhile I'd just plug chop it there and see what it's at, might have port work done to it if it's not bogging with that fat of a jet in it. do a leak down test too.

Increase the compression, go for the world record highest compression banshee

Well if that's what he said he definitely knows his shit better than me, I was just going off the info I could find when I was building my bike. I'd still compression test it just to make sure that's what it's at but up to you. Good luck 👍

You will more than likely grenade that motor running 93 octane with 18cc domes.. usually anything 20cc or under requires at least 50/50 race gas / 93 depending on elevation. Do a compression test before you even mess with jetting, if its over 150 psi you're gonna be mixing 110 and 93 into it, and if you're over 165 its straight 110 time.

ignore second video in that post, this is the one I meant to post, wont let me edit it again for some reason.

If I push and pull on my shift shaft there is a little play there which I believe is normal, could be wrong. But if its skipping teeth I would say something is wrong. I would take it apart and refer to these videos to make sure you have everything in there correctly.

I'm sure you can fish it through without removing the tank but you probably wont have much fun. I had a banshee that also had a gas tank like that, I usually just took a rubber mallet and gave it some love taps and it would always come out

Are the carbs synced?

I ended up buying an OEM one, spent forever trying to find it online, guess I wasn't searching the right thing. I figured because it was such a small "insignificant" part that I wouldn't be able to find a new OEM one. Should have rear brakes again soon 👍

Anyone know what size pin and clevis the banshee uses for the rear brake pedal? lost mine and need a replacement. Found this one on amazon and it looks like it would work but it would be great if anyone knew the size off the top of their head. https://www.amazon.com/16-Threaded-Brake-Pedal-Clevis/dp/B075NR4JY8

Think i'm gonna try them out, thanks. 😎

I have a 4mil serval cub and they seem like the perfect pipes for where I ride, just wondering if anyone has experience with them and if they would recommend them or not, can't find too much info on them

I had nearly the same jetting on my stock cylinders so you shouldn't be that far off. are the carbs synced? choke tube in? do you still have the tors on it? I know tors can cause issues like that. If it idles good and starts easy I wouldn't change the pilots. How do your plugs look? check floats and clean the carbs out to make sure nothing is clogging the jets. I'd also do a leakdown to rule out air leaks.

Contact the guy and ask for the vin?

Did you put the choke tube between the carbs back in after rebuilding the carbs? how did it run before the carb rebuild? Do you have a carb sync tool? I would make sure they are properly synced after rebuilding. If they are synced and it ran good before the rebuild I would do a leakdown test to make sure you're not sucking in a bunch of air through the intake gaskets that were just put on. I've found that you need to use sealant on the intake gaskets or else you'll be sucking excess air in.

Thanks for the info guys, appreciate it.

Thanks for the info, is it because of the bowl size of the carbs? just can't keep up with how much more gas it goes through? would a dual pingle solve this issue? I have FMF fattys on it now which i'm guessing are not the best pipe for the motor but i'm trying to keep the build under 3k so maybe i'll just upgrade those later. How do you like yours in the woods? would you go with a different set up?

I'm looking to build a 421 serval cub setup and was just wondering if anyone had experience with this motor in the woods, how does it do in the tight stuff? the place I ride is mainly pretty fast open trails but there are some hill climbs with not much of a run up and some sorta technical areas. I was also wondering how this motor does with stock carbs, will they be enough for now? and lastly what size domes will be safe with +4 timing and pump gas? The places I ride are between 450' and 750' of elevation. If anyone rides this motor in the woods I'd appreciate your opinions, thanks

Alright thanks for the replies. guess i'll do a leak down before tearin into it.

Took the shee on her maiden voyage this season and and it didn't last very long, after warming her up I started doing some pulls and noticed that she was cheechin real good out the right side pipe, shut it down and let it cool off, started it back up and was smoking normal again so I did a another pull on it and after getting warmed up she started smoking pretty bad again. Checked the head gasket and I don't see any leaks on it, it didn't seem to lose any fluids but I wasn't riding that long. Plugs looked very black and wet so shes definitely rich but I always run it rich and never seen it smoke like this so i'm thinking the crank seal is blown, also noticed there's a nice little pool of oil behind my front sprocket so guess that seal took a shit too. If it was my crank seal would it effect how the engine runs? cause it runs completely normal besides the extra smoke. Had a head gasket blow before and you can instantly notice a drop in performance but I didn't notice anything this time. Is there anything else I should check before before splitting the cases? really hoping I don't have to but all the signs point to the crank seal so it might just have to be done. If anyone has any ideas before I break her open that'd be great. My mods are FMF pipes, pod filters, +4 timing. This was the first ride after adding the +4 timing plate so i'm thinking this had something to do with it. 290 mains, 3rd clip, 27.5 pilot