coops03shee

Gusto, Sorry I missed this! Here are some pics 9f my brake lever with the DD cover and XFR nerfs. My brake lever is stock and unmodified. Tony Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Here are some pics of the pipes on the shee. The gap at the head is about 3/16" and the gap at the frame upright is about 1/16 - 1/8". You get an idea how close they come to the frame at the pipe connection as well and also how close the carb on the left side is to the head pipe. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Jayzx10r, The Pro Circuits fit pretty well. The right side head pipe clears the frame with a decent amount of room. You will want to pay attention to your clutch cable and coolant line coming out of the water pump just to make sure they don't hit the head pipe. The left side head pipe is a little closer to the upright frame tube in-front of the head and gets a little close on the side of the head. The spot were the left head pipe had me scratching my head the most was with fuel line routing. I ended up molding a fuel line to tuck behind the crossover tube and under the head pipe to make sure it stayed away from the heat. With the pipe connection to the spark arrestors, they fit well on both sides but are VERY close to the frame. I had to do a little massaging to get some clearance and still allow room for the rubber pipe connector. Once everything was bolted up they are mounted pretty snug and don't flop around or rattle against anything. In all, they are a pretty decent fitting pipe in my opinion. Tony

Hope this uploads, short little vid of 2 stroke music. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Tricked, thanks! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out, still have a couple more things I want to do to finish it off. Schweet, the SLP pipes really did perform nicely down low with some very impressive torque numbers and curve. The reason I went with the Pro Circuits is I wanted a good all around pipe, i.e. one that wasn't geared to just the high end and one that wasn't a stump puller. Another reason for the choice of the Pro Circuits was the need for spark arrectors, a requirement where I ride. Damn nice place but the DNR DOES check that stuff there. The Pro Circuit pipes are pretty much right in the middle and gave great all around numbers on the dyno. I will run these for a while and see how I like them, I'm not dead set that Pro Circuits are the ONLY pipe I will run. Compared to the pile of shit I started with, this thing is gonna be a blast to ride!!! Zillafreak, I'm not horribly shocked at the numbers the Pro Circuits made. Some of this may be from what Cam and I talked about from the get go and what I was looking for. With the port work Cameron did on the motor it was geared towards this style of pipe verse a Shearer or CPI. Canadianshee, thank you for the compliments! I like the XFR nerf bars but DAMN were they a bitch to get mounted up. The rear attachment ear that goes to the subframe on the right side was way out of whack by almost 2 inches. After some gentle massaging lol, I got them to bolt up. Thanks Gusto. Once I have more time on the thing I will probably play around a bit with pipes, jetting, and gearing to see if it likes one set-up verse another. Dyno numbers are nice but the ride could tell a different story. Thanks again everyone for the compliments! Tony

After a long wait for the motor, it's finally done. Got the idle set and let it run for a little bit to get some temp in it. After checking everything for leaks it was time to take a couple laps in the yard. First impression is Cameron did a great job on the motor!! Great pull even off idle. Gotta flush the cooling system to get all the anit-freeze out and swap to engine ice. Anyway, here's the dyno chart and some pics of it put together. Went with Pro Circuit pipes to start. I'll see how they feel and go from there. On the dyno sheet blue is FMF, green T5, brown Pro Circuit, yellow SLP, red CPI. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Nope, that wasn't me, I avoid FB lol. I enjoy doing work like that so it wasn't a big deal to bang them out. I use to build and sell these about 10-15 years ago. Saw one once and wanted to build one so I made build plans and got to cutting, bending, and welding. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Thanks dano3. I made the gussets myself. I used cardboard to make templates and then transferred everything onto sheet steal. Took about 3 hrs to make all of them using a band-saw, drill press, and sanding drum for the radius on the curves. It really wasn't that hard to make them. The hardest ones to make were for the area by the exhaust hangers that also support the steering hoop. There were a couple compound bends I put in to make everything sit flat against all mating surfaces.

Place is called All Motor Graphics. They have a bunch of different designs to choose from if graphics is your thing. They can put sponsor logos, your name, damn near anything you want on a set of graphics. Tony Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the compliment! I originally wanted to do red and black plastics but finding a new set of red plastics that I wanted was damn near impossible. The blue was easy enough to find and once I got them on and cut I liked them even more. As for the graphics, this is the second full custom set I've ordered from them and they are nice. Good quality, thick, and pretty easy to apply once you get the hang of it. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Claude, You have his cell lol Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Not much of an update but wanted to post up recent progress. Still waiting on the motor from Redline, shade over 4 months so hoping that bitch rips!!! Got the rear fenders installed and mocked up the nerfs. The nerfbars are built nicely but the right side was a bitch to get mounted, foot peg was welded on at an angle which helped create about an 1 1/2" gap at the rear mounting locations. Talked with XFR and they said this is normal. Scratched my head about the whole that's normal thing but they're on for now. Tony Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

After I posted the reply I saw your comment in the shout box about getting the turn-downs lol. Those sparkies you got are a nice looking piece, you'll have to post up some final pics once you get things put together. When the time comes I may hit you up about contacting the gentleman making those. Given how they are made with the screw on end cap there is a number of possibilities that you could make to suite your needs. Tony

Tony, With the mounting plate being aluminum sourcing aluminum tubing to weld to it may be pricey. Another alternative I thought about was having someone make new mounting plates out of steel and you could use regular exhaust tubing and weld to the new flange. This would make changing over from sparkies to the turn-downs quick. Just undo the four bolts that hold the mounting flange and swap on whatever ones you want. Doing a quick search on Summit Racing I found 1.5" 180 degree exhaust bend that you could use and weld to a new steel mounting flange. I know it's not the 1.375" diameter you currently have but there still may be enough room to weld, it up and still get your four mounting screws in, tig weld would be even better probably. Here is a link to a 180 degree bend, granted, it's polished 304 series stainless but it's also $14.99 and you could get both turn-downs out of it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-622102/overview/ Thought I would share the idea and let you marinate on it. Tony

Disregard the original seat sitting on there, still need to send the seat to Cascade for a new custom cover. I put the seat on so I can sit there or hop up and down making 2 stroke engine noises. When I'm feeling like I really need to step it up a notch, I put a shop fan in front of me to simulate going fast lol. Of course by then the engine noises get stupid loud and the cops get called. Kinda like starting a fresh small block at 3 am with open headers. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

VRX46, you're not far off in that statement! As of right now the only parts being reused from the original bike are the gas tank, front spindles, and seat pan lol. One of these days I'll get a garage sale going for all the good left over parts. Rear fenders should be here Wed of this coming week finally, been waiting just short of 3 months for new OEM rear fenders. I ran into an issue fitting up the XFR nerf bars, I contacted them and it sounds like they are gonna do what it takes to make things right. We'll see though with that. After the rear fenders and the nerfs I'll just be waiting on the lump that goes in the middle of the chassis and the pipes for that lump. Still don't know what pipes I'm going with, wanna see some numbers and go from there to start the selection process. Really haven't been able to do much with it since my last update, just waiting on parts and a motor. I do need to get some brake lines for this thing, I like to stop every now and then. Thanks for checking in on the thread. Wish I had more progress to show for the time but the great wait continues. I'll post up some pics with the new bumper and graphics, BFD right lol. Tony

Yeepo, I ended up going with 8" at the front motor mount and 7 3/4- 7 7/8" at the rear foot peg. At full extension I'm 13" to 13 1/4" from frame to ground. Claude, Thanks for the heads up with DDQ and Tfaith, didn't even think about asking them........good call! Tony

Made some progress over the weekend. Got the front end geometry set and locked down. Cut the front fender and mounted that up to see how it looks. Disregard the shitty blue radiator shroud. I don't have my black one yet and wanted to mount the front plastics. The tank side covers had taken a twisted set. So hoping with them bolted on they will come back to normal shape. Last I heard on the rear fender is first week of July. Next decision will be what seat cover to go with. Initially looked at quadtech seat cover. Already have one on the other quad and love it! I'm open to suggestions though on who makes a good gripper cover. Not much change in appearance but the front plastics are on. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Claude, Thanks for the reply. I saw that video, kinda follows along with the set-up sheet that came with my Fox shocks. I set the chassis on some stands at 7 1/2" at the rear pegs and 7 3/4" at the front engine mount area and holy crap, it looks like a lowrider lol. I have my KFX set-up spot on with those measurements front and back and it works nicely. The Banshee is a whole different animal and I'm not really sure if it would follow some of the standards that the newer 4 strokes atvs would follow. I'm not gonna be launching this thing over major jumps or anything. I will hit smaller jumps and some aggressive trail riding. I guess with the banshee it just looks like a good bit of wheel travel is being taken up when the chassis is set around the 7" range from bottom of frame to ground. I'm looking to set up the front end geometry and getting the ride height is my first step so I wanted to make sure I'm headed in the right direction. Thanks again for the reply Claude, Tony

I've done multiple searches using different terminology and haven't had much luck with this question, and the posts that it did return were over 10 years old lol. What I'm looking for is a good starting point for ride height for my banshee. My main type of riding is trails and some limited mx play. I've seen numbers as low as 7 1/2 inches frame to ground and up to 10 1/2 inches frame to ground measured at the pegs. One thing I have seen mentioned a few times is make sure the frame sits flat front to back under the motor. I'm open to your thoughts and opinions on the subject. Thanks, Tony

Thanks gusto! Gonna start setting up the front end geometry today. I do it a little different then some folks may do it. I remove the shocks and then get my chassis at the ride height I want front and rear and make sure it's level side to side. From there I begin the time consuming process of setting the camber, castor, and toe. For a starting point I'm going for right at 1/8" toe in, between 6*-8* castor, and -1 to -1.5* camber. From doing some reading on here those numbers should give me a decent starting point to work with. Once I have a chance to get some seat time on it I'll see how it feels with that range of settings. As more goodies come in and get installed I'll post more pics Thanks again gusto! Tony

Thank you SandSlingerOR! As with most projects like this it never goes as fast as you like and progress can be painfully slow at times lol. Hopefully within a month or so this thing can be finished up and out in the dirt where it belongs!! Tony

Thanks, I appreciate it! I won't lie, I had one hell of a time figuring out where that damn rezzie mount went. With a little helpful insight from one of the forum members I had that head smack ah ha moment. Hopefully the motor won't be far behind and I can get this thing wrapped up and get some riding done on it in the near future! Tony

Been a while since I've updated this. Finally got the frame back from powder so I can start putting things back on this money pit. Rear shock also finally got here so I was able to get that mounted as well. Got a call from Cameron at Redline so I think my motor is gonna start seeing some action. Anyway, this is the progress so far since the frame has come back from powder. Still have to cut the front fender and waiting on the rear to show up. Gonna be blue fenders with black radiator and tank cover. I've debated a good while on whether to go with fullbore or use oem, I chose oem. Just like the looks of cut down front fenders with OEM radiator and tank covers. Tony Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Put a NOS sticker on that thing and you're gonna gain another 5hp when the motor gets put into it lol!! Looks good Claude, I wasn't sure about the yellow chassis in the beginning but it has grown on me and it's coming together nicely. Tony