grantevans713

Also, on stock carbs, the left one has a little metal dot on the bowl. They cant be switched around and this one should always be the left, as this carb has the choke and the bowl is setup for it. Make sure you have the right bowl on the right carb. There is an emulsion hole between the needle on slide and the needle valve that controls float. Make sure this isnt clogged with junk.

In 2018 I used RVshare.com to rent an RV at the Saint Anthony Dunes. Guy came out and set it up for me the morning of the day I was supposed to arrive. I got there in the evening and it was good to go. My last day I left in the morning and he came by to pick it up before check out time. Great experience. Since then I just sleep in the back of my jeep as its big enough for me, and everyone else has their own setup. Always fun though!

Fuel out the exhaust means it isnt sparking or you are blowing it out. It sounds electrical, so changing out the stator/cdi/flywheel should have fixed it, but if they are chinese junk it could still be the problem. It could be a carb or plug issue. Make sure you are running new NGK BR8ES plugs and not those junk iridium ones. Also, on stock carbs, the left one has a little metal dot on the bowl. They cant be switched around and this one should always be the left, as this carb has the choke and the bowl is setup for it. Make sure you have the right bowl on the right carb. There is an emulsion hole between the needle on slide and the needle valve that controls float. Make sure this isnt clogged with junk. Make sure your fuel/air screw is completely cleaned out and not clogged. Make sure that your carbs float heights are within spec, I think like 20mm? I guarentee you it is one of these things listed. Start with your carbs, as that is the easiest fix.

You said it is a 4mil, which having a spacer plate makes sense. If it has stock cylinders that is fine, but if it has stock pistons then that is your problem. The stock replacement pistons are 513s. If it is a 4mil, then you need to be running 795s. Running the wrong piston is probably why one of them failed. Next, you say you are running 20cc domes, that means this bike is setup to run on either 105 or 110 octane gas. If you are trying to run pump gas, then that is a problem as well. You need to run 23cc/24cc domes if you want to run 93/91 octane out of a pump. If you are going to change domes, get some cut domes so you dont need the spacer plate. To answer your questions: 1: It could be what I mentioned above, wrong pistons or wrong domes for the fuel you are using. You didnt mention your fuel ratio, you did say you just bought it so you should know that you need to be running 2stroke mix in your gas. Personally I use Amsoil Dominator at a 40:1 ration, and thats what I would recommend as well. It could also be your jetting as I will talk about on 3rd question. 2: with your pipes I would run +3/+4 for timing. 3: Jetting varries motor to motor. You said big carbs but didnt mention their exact size or brand. I have a similiar trinity 4mil that is a 397 with its 66mm bore. It runs Mikuni 34s with main jet at 280 for 1800 elevation. I would start there as your build isnt to far off from what I have. Put in fresh spark plugs, ride it hard for a bit with WOT(wide open throttle), then pull the plugs. If they are black/wet then you need to go down a size and start over with fresh plugs. If they are white/ light brown then go up a size and try again. Ideally, you want them to be a chocolate brown. I will check back for any questions you might have or help you need.

The only steering stabalizer that is worth a damn is the GPR. I bought one used off a cbr600rr, and called them for a fit kit. for $230 I sent it in and they just sent me a brand new one back that was actually setup for an ATV. Amazing customer service and the product is absolutely amazing on my trail bike.

yzf450 shocks are generally stiffer than others, and would not be the cause of squirrelyness. How are the ball joints on your A-Arms? If it was an MX bike they are probably shot. What about your tie rods? How about your steering stem? If your problem with the bike is steering, then suspension isn't your answer.

Are you talking about THE Kenny Roberts who signed my RZ350? He makes exhaust systems?

I just got back from an impromptu trip to Saint Anthony for labor day week. The dunes were amazing. Labor day we got a wind storm, and it cleaned out the dunes after the UTVs trashed them. Its funny because its 724miles and 12hrs for me, 761miles and 12hours for my brother, and 732miles and 12hours for my buddy. We always meet up and distance/time is about the same for all of us except my buddies in western montana who can take day trips there. Always a big crew, be great to get out with more than just my banshees!

That's what everyone says, but i'm trying to pick two up and really don't want to shell out $1100 with the way the prices of ammo have gone. I did find this: https://www.electrosport.com/products/esg870-lighting-stator-yamaha-yfz350-banshee-95-06-high-output But I haven't been able to find any reviews on them. It does have a one year warranty, but if its junk then sending me another is useless to me and only blows up another CDI.

Running to lean. Check the boots on your carbs, trace your throttle cable to make sure it isnt hung up. Pull air filters and make sure slides are down and synced. Thats basically the complete list of what you need to check. If its none of these things, its possessed and has ghosts in its blood, you should probably do cocaine about it.

It sounds like you are blowing out the spark on one cylinder. This recently happened to me on my trail bike, the fuel\air screw was clogged on the carb. It is also possible that your float height is bad and flooding the cylinder. It could also be getting weak spark from a Chinese stator or flywheel (or both). I would recommend checking things in that order, because things are progressively more difficult and expensive as you move down that list.

banshees are not jumping bikes, they are front heavy to avoid wheelies when going WOT. People drag race them and it helps, but not with the amount of power people put into these motors now.

For peak horsepower and a low risk of detonation, you want compression 165-180psi. What domes you use will depend on your fuel type. With 19cc domes you should be running 115\methanol. if you want to run 110 then drop to 20\21cc. If running 105 go to 21/22cc, and if you want to run pump gas 23/24cc. I had a bike with mikuni 34's. At my elevation of 1800ft I ran 280 main jets, you should be somewhere close to that. Check your jets, put in fresh plugs and ride WOT for a bit. Pull plugs and if they are black/wet then drop a size. If they are white or a light light brown, go up a size. Check your fuel air screws, make sure they are clean and maybe start with them turned out 2+1/2 turns. Make sure to figure these things out, riding with that high of compression is dangerous and you are lucky you only have loose plugs.

I haven't been able to find any info on ricky stators that isn't years old.... I saw Race Tech Electric makes them, but I never saw definitive reviews of them. I just put my OEM one in my trail bike. My dune bike blew up and is getting torn down for a total rebuild with parts from driveline. I have everything together finally, but now I need a stator. I did find OEM ones for like $550, is there anything else out there with a reasonable enough price I can always have a spare? Or am I stuck shelling out $1,100 for two of these things?

I had ran a Vitos radiator cover, tabs broke off after a couple rides. It sat on it for years without coming off and looked fine.

I love this thread was started 5 years ago and now we know why this place was trash. Im looking for stator reviews and this was the first post in here, laughable.

I spoke with Gary. I detailed to him my full build and asked if he recommended his pipes. He recommended Shearers over CPIs or even his pipes. He could just be busy, and maybe your bike might benefit more than my 421 would. However you would have to wait and gains could be minimal for a 421.

I'd be interested in the cylinders, pistons and intake, I have a coolhead, pipes and reeds already.

Thanks for the response, I already got everything ordered for 110 just to try it out, carbs, domes etc. I am considering ordering a second set of domes to swap out to run 91. Would need some jets to swap out as well I'm sure.

I go to St. Anthony every year in early May. I'm just seeing this now, but I usually meet up with friends/family. Be great to meet up with some other banshees. Let's shoot for 2021

I asked driveline for more aggressive porting, so it will be on the drag side of things. When I am riding usually its full throttle into a coast, or I keep it wide open and blast around. I might end up going with some 39s as they seem to be more widespread. If I could find someone reliable or recommended I would send these out and get an oval bore done to put them right in the middle.

My buddy says I should get 39s and run 19cc domes for 110, make it a drag bike. Not sure I want to do all that but what kind of HP gains are we talking with bigger carbs? ALso if I were to get them ported is there a reputable person I could send them to?

So this winter im putting a 421 kit into my banshee. Right now its stock bore with some aggressive porting, wiseco pistons, toomey t5s, custom billet reeds, cool heads, pump gas domes, amd it has been running great with a pairt of the old mikuni t34 02e. The meat and potatoes of the new engine build will be: ⦁ DriveLine Performance 421cc Big Bore Assassin LP Cylinder Kit with additional intake and transfer porting ⦁ Wiseco 68mm blaster style pistons ⦁ HotRods 4mm 115 Long Rod Stroker Crankshaft There are other modifications going in, and still some on it already like timing, clutch lockup, oversized radiator, etc. What I am curious about is weather or not I can just reuse my carbs? Can I just run bigger jets with these and all the power upgrades? Is there someone I can send them out to and have them bored? I felt like the 34s might have been to big for what was on it, and looking around some people run 35s or 36s, but others recommend 39s. I do plan to continue just running pump gas, I live at 1600 elevation and ride occasionally, but my trips to the dune every year are at 4000 elevation and I ride there probably more than I do locally. With the drastic difference I had considered the Lectron carbs, but all the info on them that I've found here is very old. Riding style generally will be more relaxed, but lets face it there are times you are almost full throttle for an entire tank of gas.

Good prices for porting. What if I wanted to get a bigger bore? Is it worth doing? I see that I can buy brand new cylinders for $140, I would send those out to avoid the hassle of not knowing what has even been done to the ones I have on. Might as well go big while I am getting new ones.

I just had it apart to put a new transmission in, then a timing plate, water pump impeller/gear, flywheel and then put it together so I could ride this weekend. The crank is welded, but I did not check top end. I only found the email and saw that he said they were ported. I am hoping to figure out what he meant and what port was done, and where he had it done. I have another motor and tons of parts from my old rz350s. What are recommendations if I were to send a motor out for a full 4mill setup? About what price range would I be looking?