maggdog

After an hours looks normal again

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Acrylic-Plastic-plexiglass-Round-Sheet-3-16-x-5-Circle-Clear-/321776166575?hash=item4aeb5aa6af:g:7AMAAOSwNSxVc4R1 i wiped and lens looks normal not melting from heat this, original cover of my banshee at the same place make the milky, now is clear don't have a pic that show the milky liquid, is only for indicate the place

yes, but never turn milky all the oil only in this place, also a i have other stock clutch cover (no windows), after riding, drain the oil, take cover off for change to this actually cover and other had the same thing to this cover in the same place

Every time that I stop the machine, after a minutes do this its normal? maybe a little oil vapour?

Post a pic of your shee with a clear clutch or windows clutch minutes after riding? Need to compare mine

are stroker engine more delicate than stock engine? (in terms of more prone to blown up)

no is a "mod"

hose was smashed, i don't know what, i have other hose that its pretty nice and don't have bend like this

Only need the positions, nevermind alpha/num but thanks for the info also

i'm confused, with this pic maybe i understand i know is a keihin chart but, is a correct number of needle position is same on mikuni?

but i got the idea thanks

clarified, the airscrew is "1 1/2" turn out not 1/2, sorry

I got a new v force 4 reeds, Fmf golden series and powercore2, stock carbs (280 mains), stock pilots(25), stock airbox with lid (not snorkel), stock needle middle position, 1/2 turns on air screw need to rejet some, mains? pilots? or keep setup

Checking the water level on the radiator i note that is contaminated little bit like of oil tranny, radiator level after riding is fully, check tranny oil color and is normal not milky recently i change seal of water pump, check the impeler shaft is very tight and don't have play through of seal and bearing water don't smell to gas no its a head gasket problem (radiator level fully)

that's the problem, fixed

I don't know can be now

Seal pump and o-ring changed after the first problem And looks so now, but i noted the water on radiator is down less than the first time

so after all install looks

i think that

i'll try

seal is new, the pump shaft is the same

after riding test, the good (no leaks), the bad, the oil turn to milk color fuuck milk color and the water on the radiator is down, i think that i broke the seal while installing, the impeler is the same that works with the original cover and not problem with the oil, the o-ring hose between head and clutch is the same and works good before with the original clutch cover, i don't know what can be really

Last and sad updates Seal and bearing arrive glass adjustments for glass fits on cover and looks so

thanks to s.b.r troops for ideas 1987 banshee clutch cover paint remove First error, use sandpaper #60 to remove the paint, i did some deep scratches, that was difficult to remove later (fuuuuck) - #600, #2000 sandpaper - after day, i order buffing kit Get a new waterpump bearing, now i waiting for a seal and plexiglass all that can be better, but i'm don't retailer

anyone use this? and what can be a good mix ratio?