maggdog

Hi guys Sometimes after warmmed up when i apply a WOT. Not response correctly. It give a kind of jostle (or sound choky) and after I keep WOT a few seconds starts to respose slowly and i can run full throttle. What the problem? Stock carbs with 300 mains 27.5 pilots (tors on it but disconnected) V force 4 Shaved head Stock cdi coil and stator Plugs looks brown color, not rich, not lean No hard start Before put the v force and shave the head also made all that Sent from my SM-A500Y using Tapatalk

Not available man . Only i have an air compressor, paint gun Sent from my SM-A500Y using Tapatalk

I want a duncan bumper but i must wait Sent from my SM-A500Y using Tapatalk

My banshee swingarm need a paint Now looks so And the rest Looking a good combination or a color that stand out the axle chrome Such an idea Sent from my SM-A500Y using Tapatalk

fits on stock mounts? or need some more to install?

worth it rebuilt caliper? for you experience is effective?

The rear caliper is fuck up. So what choice is better? buy a kit and rebuilt considering that piston is rusty, but some rebuilt kits come with piston or buy new caliper?

I ride a few hours and after ride still and smell to gas

Shit. You have all right. It comes when bought the banshee i thought that was normal but i compare with other and not lol. The stupid mechanics of this atv bent. Thanks for advice i'll fix that

Has a difference between cool or after ride warmed up?

Now are cool, but i think also has this after ride

Is normal this humidity or wet of gas betwen carb and intake? Has in both boots

Thanks

what is a best jetting for my banshee on pwk 28 carbs: main, pilot, needle, airscrew turns out .030 shaved head +3 timing fmf exhaust v force 4 air box with lid at sea level non ported .020 cyl overbore

and what is the prices of that? include fees also

lose traction or what?

looks overheat also maybe you need bore

and you changed carb from another bike also?

left carb has a issue, good idle, and i can run on low revs, when i open to full throttle only work right cyl then turn off carbs has tors disconnected, and also carb look and sound sync

when i've ride on stock a arms everything was good, ball joint arms tight, tie ends tight, run low and high speeds not play not uncontrol i put +2 +1 arms, not play on steering when i slow riding all is normal but when run on high speed the steering turn more sensitive, more high speed more more decontrol has stock shocks, 19" tire on front 20" rear, is the same setup on tire before and after put the +2 +1 and never issue on high speeds on stock arms whats the problem? bad adjust on a arm tie rods? all are tight, the problem is when change the speed, i can't run on top speed

looks too lean, what is your jetting?

I can cut swingarm -1 without round carrier conversion? Or can bring issues by using stock carrier

i use my banshee on street, sometimes i play trail riding and mx but i don't know if stock are good for a mx? i weight is 116 pounds and the track not have a big jumps or hardcore riding

I put vf4's, jetted to 290 mains and 27.5 pilots, 4th clip position needle, actually airscrew is (1 1/2 turn out)... Did 68.7mph top speed 2 things to help, 1- i don't know if is a correct setup on airscrew, so i need the correct turn out for this setup ^^^^^, elevation is 10ft sea level 2- i want to gain a little more top speed, i plain to change the rear sprocket for a fine change, i think change front sprocket is a big change so i don't wanna touch actually is a 14/41, so i take advantage change rear because it need a new sprocket maybe 40 or 39? and also request the shifting very faster I want the engine work in a balance not harder but either softer

yes when is cold return to normal, when engine is on, still clear, when turn engine off, a few minutes appears that milky thing, when is completely cold begins to fade