zillakilla02

If I hold it that way u can feel the spring pressure start a little ways before it's horizontal and by the time it's horizontal you are using almost all the springs length

That's to the highest point on the float when it just barely starts to have spring pressure right?

Yeah I just found a tread depth guage at work for checking tires but it has mm on it and it should work better for me to take that measurement of the float height. Supposed to go ride this weekend hoping I get it going after work tonight! Thanks for the help I'll try to pick up some new pilots

Maybe because of the slides being backwards they installed that small pilot to lean it out?

Yes choke tube is installed. I think float level is set too low cuz you feel the spring pressure when the float is at a pretty decent angle still meaning not horizontal. I had the air screws all the way in and backed off still wouldn't start. I have an air bubble in my main fuel line almost like the carbs aren't filling up and having good flow. I just installed a inline fuel filter but I don't think that's the issue. I have a 25 pilot and 340 main which I think that's a really small pilot n for a 392 cub?? The slides I'm guessing were backwards for a long time but I really don't know how long.

Hey HQ I've been having issues with one of my carbs leaking out the overflow so I bought new float needles because I couldn't get the adjustment right. I installed new float needles and got it running but 1 carb still leaked. I bought and installed a tors eliminator and a new billet chariot intake and now the bike won't start. I think my floats aren't adjusted right. would that cause the bike not to start? Also I found out that the previous owner had the slides in backwards. I reversed them so the cutout is towards the rear but now it won't even try to start. My carbs are synced. Either the float bowls aren't filling up enough or turning the slides around is giving me problems... I tried to set the float level to spec but i must have screwed up. Will the float level prevent it from starting? I am getting some fuel in the bowls

Ok thanks alot!

So I've been having some issues with my stock carbs leaking out the overflow. I tried adjusting the floats and got one to stop but then the other leaked. I decided to pick up some new float needles and tried again. One of them still leaked so after a bunch of adjusting I got them to not leak but I'm worried they aren't set perfect. I'm getting a big air bubble in my main fuel line coming out of tank. I've read the correct measurement is like .8 to .88 inches but from where to where do you measure??

Anybody know of any mods to give me some more clearance between my left foot peg and my shifter? I have stock pegs and shifter and it's a tight squeeze to up shift so much so that I pretty much have to wear regular shoes to ride with. I'd like to be wearing boots but I'd never be able to get my foot under that lever! Any companies sell lower pegs or an extended foot shifter?? Thanks!

And I'd skip the flames I find them a bit cheesy unless done right

I'd say you can't go wrong with white... but I think blue might look pretty cool, or black fenders with red grill and tank kinda like the old 97 model with gold rims

Hey guys I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with these burgard a arms? From what I've found they aren't made anymore and I can't find any info on them. My camber is all sorts of out of wack. The left tire is tipped pretty far in compared to the right but there is no adjustment left in the top ball joint. Are these even on the correct sides? It just seems like the angle at which the top ball joint end should almost be flip flopped around? Also any idea where I can get new ball joints and tie rod ends for these? Thanks for any help

Yeah 25 pilots seemed pretty small to me and it always wants to idle kinda high. I ordered the tors kit with the throttle cable because the one on there seems really stiff. And I picked up a k&n recharge kit a few days ago. Tryin to fix all the little stuff!

Ok I'll go sign up for one thanks

Ok thanks alot. Hopefully I can figure out how to post pictures to post what domes I have, it keeps telling me that the file size is too big and I'm not sure how to decrease it.

is it best to replace the orings any time you take the head off? Thanks for the advice guys

yeah that's what im hearing but vitos told me the stock carbs can actually do pretty well with the right jetting and atomize the fuel better. if I pull the domes what is the difference between a stroker dome and not?

so being that its a 392 it should be a stock stroke crank?

right but im wondering how to tell if its a 4 mil stroker like the guy said or not. like how to tell if theres a stroker crank or stock crankshaft

hey guys so I recently purchased an 02 banshee 392 cheetah cub 4 mil stroker. the guy I bought it from was kind of a knob and couldn't answer any of my questions. he had paperwork from vitos that the original owner gave him showing the 392 kit was bought along with some other stuff. it has a pro design coolhead with 22cc domes, some sort of aftermarket carbon fiber reeds, Toomey t6 pipes and silencers, k&n direct mount air filters with outerwears, vitos performance carb kit (whatever that includes) 340 main, 25 pilot, and some red needles that must be part of the carb kit. but on the paperwork I noticed it said the 392 kit was for a stock crankshaft. he said he had it rebuilt 8 months ago and the place that did it told him it was a 4 mil stroker. is there any easy way of finding out for sure if this is a stroker or just a big bore besides having to pull the cylinders off and measure a rod? I thought maybe I could pull the coolhead and see if it has stroker domes in it. if so what is the difference between regular domes and stroker domes? also I went trail riding with it last weekend it ran great but it was very dusty and towards the end of the day it started hesitating a little bit. I didn't think too much of it but it had me a little worried. well the next day it wouldn't start. I pulled off the air cleaners and the slides were loaded with dirt and gunk. I know the air filters were clamped on tight and I noticed the tors units on top of the carbs were loose and wobbling around. could this be where all my dirt came from? I pulled off the carbs and cleaned everything out, installed new float needles because one overflow was leaking since I got it, and made sure to tighten down the top caps so the tors were not loose anymore. well ever since I tightened them down it runs like crap wont idle and falls flat on its face if I try to ride it. I messed around with the adjustment on the tors and just ended up disconnecting all the electrical connections at the brain box and the thumb throttle and now it runs great??!!! I don't get it. so I ordered the tors eliminator kit that should be here this week so hopefully solves that problem. I also ordered a new chariot billet intake and billet reed cages and im wondering if I will need to change my jetting? seems like a pretty big main jet and kind of a small pilot??? any help is greatly appreciated as I used to own a built quadzilla and a big bore trx330r but im new to the twin screamers!!! thanks guys