2STROKIN_IT

Yeah I ended up leaving it stock. Had a chance to delete it when I pulled clutch cover off for my impeller and pancake bearing but I got the thinking about mud and crap that may get into it. Thanks as always fellas

Cool thanks guys I'll have to go ahead and hook the trans line and eliminate the one by water pump. Shoot I'll probably go ahead and do it to mine too while I'm at it.

Ok so I was wrenchin on my buddies banshee and noticed that he had some hoses with dead ends. One hose comes from back of trans on top side near swingarm pivot point, the other is coming from the clutch cover near the water pump side. I looked at my banshee and seen that both these hoses go into a T and go under the tank into idk what cause I didn't take my tank off to find out (6 pack was gone already). But my question is what is the function of these hoses if anyone has a clue as to what I'm talking about. Will it affect the way the bike is running and where does it T off too?? Thanks like always fellas

I recently removed mine on my bike and I just took the tank off and followed the wires coming from the parking brake to under the tank and simply disconnected the connector and it was fine. Are you sure you are not disconnecting the on/off switch that's on the clutch side? But if you wanna completely remove the parking brake in all you should start from the rear of the bike and work your way forward. First thing you should do is order a PARKING BRAKE BLOCK OFF PLATE, usually about $12 and it comes with an o ring, bolts and block off plate. You will need to install this where the parking brake mechanism is attached to the rear brake caliper. But this is what I did and I'm not saying this is the correct way but it's what I did with no issue: 1: Remove parking brake mechanism from rear brake caliper, you will see that it has a cable running into it with a spring. I believe it's with a 6mm Allen wrench that you will remove the 2 bolts that hold p brake mechanism in place. 2: One mechanism is off you can install block off plate with o ring and bolts supplied. This block off is not absolutely necessary but good to keep all the gunk out of caliper and prevent future problems. 3: Remove spring off of parking brake mechanism, that should take the tension off the p brake cable. You slide cable out and that should give you the clearance to slide the cable through all the loops that keep it in place all the way to the clutch perch. 4: If I can remember correctly you will need an 8mm wrench and a flat head screw driver to remove the parking brake trigger from clutch perch. Unscrew the bolt that holds it in place (this is after you remove cable that ran from front to back of bike) and slide assembly off the perch. 5: All you will have left at this point is the small parking brake switch/sensor that has wires coming out of it, you remove it by (if I can remember) is stick a flat head in the little lock tabs that hold it into the parking brake assembly on clutch perch. Once out you can trace wires down and disconnect from the small connector under tank. This should delete your parking brake all together. Again I'm no pro just going off of what I did!! Good luck

I agree!! Great chart!!!!

I actually just received my billet impeller and would like to know if there is any how to vids or anything out there that doesn't involve the claymers manual?? I am gonna install that along with my pancake bearing this Saturday!! I would love a little insight on both of anyone out there is willing to help. Like always thanks guys

Ok so my pancake bearing came in and I'm gonna have time this weekend to install. I have searched the site a bit and have not seen any how to's on installing it. I am definitely mechanically inclined so I would like to know a few things before I start tearing it apart and not knowing what goes where!! Pics would be great also but just a general how to would be great also!!

Yup he got a new billet one along with a new stator. Old stator is still salvageable so I'll probably fix it up and keep t as a back up just for a rainy day..

Yeah timing plate looks a bit rinky dink. Idk about stator, if I knew how to post pics I would love to show you but I haven't got that far yet. I told him that you get what you pay for but in his defense he bought the bike that way, guy he got it from had no clue what mods that had he just said "they did something to the motor"!! Ah well I just wanted to find out the what's an whys this would happen.

So a buddy and I went out yesterday to Rocky Glen in Rockford,Il to go mess around. For those who haven't been there it's pretty much a couple hundred acres of trails and a small dirt track with a few jumps. Anywho we were riding for about 15 minutes tops and my buddies banshee just dies. Tried to start and nada, something just didn't feel right so I go to my truck to pick up some premix in a squirt bottle and a strap. Well to no avail did it start so I pulled him back to staging area where we were parked. First thing I did was check for spark and nothing. Pulled stator cover off and noticed a couple wires hanging (from stator) and said uppp I think I found the problem!! Turns out the timing plate that the stator was on broke where the three bolts hold the stator in place so essentially the stator was spinning with the flywheel!! It was a adjustable timing plate but it looks like a cast one not billet, but my question is what could have caused that?? I mean he is kind of a porker would his girth cause it to break? Or was it just a faulty install or a cheap plate and have u guys ever heard of some shit like that?? Side note: My SHEE was running like a top all day mainly cause of all the info I got from all u guys and this site Thanks like always

Well it's running now!! Took stator cover off and noticed that little nubs on flywheel had a bit of surface rust along with contact point!! So I unscrewed the small contact point and it looked like it was dirty also. I cleaned them both but still had a bit of rust so I got a 2000 grit sandpaper and sanded little point and nubs than used some mothers metal polished and shined them up. After that I got some brake cleaner and wet a lint free towel, wiped off nubs and point to get any wax residue off. I put it back together and bam first freakin kick it started right up and sounded great, I left plate timing at +4!! I left it running for a while and took it around the block a few times and all seems normal!! Now my right carb is leaking from bottom overflow so I'm gonna pull carb and see what's up.. Thanks again fellas oh and if my boss asks I'm feeling sick... Cough..cough...sniffle

I'll give it a try and report back. Hopefully it's easy but I guess its gonna have to take sponge baths from now on..

Yeah no kidding. If I had more time I would have dug into it a bit further but guess it's gonna have to wait till Saturday. Made my leak down rig so I'm gonna test that out too. But do you think the timing plate can disrupt spark like that?? Freakin weird.... I just wanted to get a jump start through u guys before I had a chance to put my hands on it!! One second she's purrin like a kitten than kaput I don't get it.. Again thanks guys

Ok so I had my shee out this weekend and all was great.. Than I go home and powerwash her you know to clean it up and stuff and bam it throws a hissy fit and don't wanna run right anymore. I installed the timing plate, tors and filter and she ran great but after the show it was down hill. First kick it started right up than all of a sudden it started to idle reply high than bog and start running on left cylinder only and after that it wouldn't start. Spayed a bit of premix to give it some help and it would start idle fine than idle high than right cylinder would stop firing and die!! Wtf did I do!!! She has tors delete, pro flow filter, t5 pipes and jets that came with t5 kit, timing plate installed at +4 and my elevation a bit over 600ft. I have 2 jobs so my time is limited unfortunately at the moment so any simple checks that I can make right away to diagnose the issue would be great. Thanks like always

I have a guy selling me his spat trak 12 paddles haulers on itp wheels!! Is $200 for some used tires and wheels a good deal?

I have a guy selling me his spat trak 12 paddles haulers on itp wheels!! Is $200 for some used tires and wheels a good deal?

Yeah judging by all the input I may just leave as is till I rebuild. Last owner said it hadn't had the top end rebuilt in about 4 years. I'm almost sure that's not true, I'm gonna use the equation that every man should use when they ask a girl how many guys they have slept with.... Answer x 2= The truth!!!! Than I will mess with timing again, I'm gonna end up splitting the cases and giving it a once over than install 4 mil crank and all accommodations that go with it. Thanks again guys

It was funny that you mention Alba I was looking into them for a port and head job.. But haven't reall heard any solid feedback on them.. I hear people putting YFZ450 shocks on extended arms is that a fairly easy mod if it's even possible and would it be good enough?? What about the rear?? Sorry for being such a persistent patty but I'm trying to absorb any advice I can get!!

Yeah all of my suspension is bone stock, I was gonna address that when I tore the SHEE apart for powdercoat. What's a good recommendation when it comes to suspension components and actually getting the power to the ground?

Yeah I'm surely considering it but wasn't sure if I can use all my stock top end after workin it of course to accommodate a 4 mil. But man the season is rearing its ugly head and wanna see what this thing has got in it. I really hadn't had the chance to take it out to open land and really wind her out. I will pull apart after my first outing I'm sure cause I'm truly never satisfied. Thanks again guys, big ups to the people that keep this site running it's extremely helpful to me and I'm sure you guys will help me throughout my build!!

That all sounds like good news to me... Maybe in the $1000 range?? Or would it cost more? Mind me I'll be doing the work myself as far as disassembly and installs..

Dammit that sounds like more money to be spent in the near future... Well if I'm gonna have to split the cases should I just put a stroker in and will my factory jugs (after port) and redone head still accommodate it on pump or will I have to run alky??

Oh whoopsie!!! Foot in the mouth!!

Just pump.. Should I not be??

So I've read that indeed it is a lot of different parameters when it comes to setups for dunes vs trails. But I'm aiming for a all around solid machine for either occasion. Let's say my riding style isn't mild I'm a balls to the wall kinda guy, heck I've been wrenchin on sportbikes for over 10 years now so I sure love speed and love the notions of power to weight ratios!! But I must admit I'm new to the quad world but so far lovin it but hating that it's very easy to spend money on these things... But back to the topic at hand, I've seen a non sponsored (dare I say) place ALBA RACING?? tell me they will mill my head, rechamber it and also port jugs for $420!! Does this sound good and has anyone heard of them??