Tyler S

I currently have a bone stock 1987 Banshee with j arms. I want to keep it this way because I like the fact of the uncut vintage banshee. However, people have told me that as soon as I wheelie and come down hard they will literally just snap off, personally I have gone of many jumps and done plenty of wheelies with no problems. Just wondering if anyone has ever had J arms snap off or bend. Also is it really worth it to get aftermarket J arms?

Try taking the shift linkage off and spinning it by hand. If it doesn't move theres probably something wring with the shift forks. If you were slamming on it to try and shift with that broken stopper there is probably a good chance that the shift forks are bent or even broken. Like I said take the linkage off and try it by hand if it does't budge then its probably time to split the cases.

When breaking in make sure you don't stay at the same rpm. I would take it easy for the first couple rides. Just make sure you keep woking the throttle up and down, and obviously don't got WFO. I run 20:1 for break in, they say that to much oil can actually cause the engine to run lean. According to physics it's possible but I've never seen it happen. In my opinion if you have that much oil it'll probably gonna run like shit or not run at all.

Forged pistons are generally better, especially for a banshee. If you think about how forging works your basically squishing all of the molecules together in the manufacturing process. The nature of casting a piston can sometimes cause little air pockets inside the metal which can cause it to crack. Wiseco's are definitely the way to go, tried and true for years. Just make sure you have your piston to cylinder clearance right its different for forged pistons, usually .003". Forged pistons usually expand a little differently than cast so make sure you let ur bike warm up properly before riding. And always check your ring installed end gap before putting the engine together, I've seen a lot of motors set up because the end gap is to small.

The whole was already pretty ovaled out. Even with the drilling I didn't get a good cut with the tap. It's an 87 so its seen a lot of action.

No all components are new but stock. New stock reeds, new carb boots, new gaskets and seals, and new everything else. There is no air leaks and i'm getting 135psi out of each cylinder.

Thanks guys I'll go to a 230 and see what the plugs look like. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right now I have a completely stock bike that I just freshly rebuilt. The only mod it has is pod filters, stock pipes, stock carbs, stock reeds, and everything else stock. Right now the carbs are stock jetted. 210 main and 25 pilot e clip right in the middle. I know for a fact that i will have to jet because I am getting more air, I was thinking 30 pilot, 300 main and leaving the clip for now. Does this sound right, I have never jetted a banshee but know a lot about jetting carbs I have done it many times on other machines. Right now it is ranging anywhere from 35 to 50 degrees outside, and hopefully it will get warmer soon, god I hate NY. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.

How am I supposed to get the old ones out. Am I going to have to cut them out with a grinder?

On the left side the front hole is almost stripped, the back hole stripped so I drilled and tapped to 12x1.25. It stripped again, anybody else have this problem, if so how did you fix it. People say they have welded studs in but how would the peg mount flush to the frame with a bead of weld there. Also heard of people welding a flanged nut in there also, that sounds like a good idea I just don't no if it will be that strong when its done. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.

On the left side the front hole is almost stripped, the back hole stripped so I drilled and tapped to 12x1.25. It stripped again, anybody else have this problem, if so how did you fix it. People say they have welded studs in but how would the peg mount flush to the frame with a bead of weld there. Also heard of people welding a flanged nut in there also, that sounds like a good idea I just don't no if it will be that strong when its done. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.

Its about 40 degrees out and I just got done doing a complete rebuild. Was wondering if I should change to larger jets, right now it's a stock bike with stock jetting. Just curious to what temperature people usually switch jets, or do I have to basically ride it for a little bit and check the plugs.

Sorry trail tech vapor my bad.

I'm putting a vapor on my bike and I was wondering what should I set my overheat temp at. Ive heard that banshees run at about 170 to 190, so should I set my vapor at 210. Also just curious what rpm should I set the shift light at, I was thinking 10,000 don't know if thats to high or low, or is this something where I'm gonna have to ride it to find out.

You never know you might get a rock stuck in your brake and it could lock up and pull the bike that way, seen it happen. If it was me I would leave them on there.

I know that the raptor 660 shocks will fit and I'm pretty sure the yfz450 works. However, I know for a fact that the raptor 700 and the yfz450r shocks will not work.

So i have a 1987 banshee with the old style stock carrier. I'm just using a pipe wrench, I tightened the first nut super tight then the second. After this the axe was very stiff and hard to turn. However, if I back off the first nut a tiny bit the axle is still solid and spins freely. Should I just tighten the first nut so the axle is solid and spins freely and then lock it with the second, or do I need a new spacer because the bearings and seals are brand new.

Same problem here in Buffalo NY. Can't wait till spring. Nice bike it looks bad ass.

Unplug your stator connector and measure the following wires coming out of the stator. White/Green to white/red resistance should be 94-140 ohms. This is you pickup coil. Next red to green should be 13.7 to 20.5 ohms. This is the ignition coil. If you are reading OL (open line) for any of these that means there is short somewhere. However, if you are reading the wrong resistance this could mean that the coil windings are shorted out and it is jumping from one coil winding to another, this would make the overall output of the stator less because you are not using the full power of the coils. This could be your problem because shorted windings would cause weak spark. So when you dump the throttle again you are overwhelming that weak spark with a lot of fuel and it can't ignite it. I would also check your spark plugs, if they are fouled out it can cause this also. You can also check your spark plug wires and the spark plug caps, if any connections are loose that can be a problem. When your machine is running you can use a spray bottle to mist the spark plug wires with water and if either of the wires arcs through the mist (you will see it) then this means you need a new wire. However, if you have any mods like pipes, I would make sure that you are properly jetted and running the right carbs for you situation. If your pipes aren't sealing to the cylinders or if there are any leaks in them it can cause it to run weird. I bought a machine that had stock pipes with 32mm carbs and had this problem. You would wind it right out then when you slowed down to turn around as soon as you got back on it, it would start spitting and popping. In my case it had to much fuel due to the larger carbs.

Tearing down my motor I found this, is there any reason that somebody would do this besides the fact that it was leaking oil. The one coming out of the back of the case was cut flush with the case but not clogged. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I know the front shocks are junk, I'll change them eventually. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know I'm new here but I thought I'd post my project to see what u guys think. Basically it's a restoration of a 1987 banshee. I'm restoring it because it's pretty cool that a 28 year old atv can still smoke most modern bikes. Let's be honest it also an iconic ATV. It's not done yet but here is the progress so far hope you guys like it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes using a bore bar for the majority, then doing the last .005" with a 220 hone. Another question is when I put the sleeves in the one is about 1mm of on the intake port. It it worth my time to clean up the edges with a die grinder or will it not really affects my performance?

If you are going to run race gas you will need a higher compression to see optimal results. To get a higher compression ratio you will have to get head work done. That would include smaller domes in your head, or "shaving" your head. However, you must know what you are doing with this or have a shop do it. If you get smaller domes or shave your head you have to make sure that your piston squish is within reason. Your piston squish is how much space there is between the dome and the piston at top dead center. If its not enough your engine might turn over when cold but soon as it warms up and all the parts start expanding, your piston and dome will hit each other which is not good. Also the reason that people run race gas is that if you try and use pump gas in a high compression setting it will "knock." This means that due to the heat of compression pump gas will detonate before the spark plug fires, like a diesel engine. Think about pumping a bike pump and making a lot of compression in the hose, the hose will get warm due to the high compression. So yes race gas does run cooler because it has a higher detonation temperature than pump gas.

I am currently in the process of resleeving my cylinders at school. I'm going with stock bore and a stock engine. According to other sources people are saying .0025" for standard conditions and .003" for racing conditions. I'm shooting for .0025" with the hone but is it really that bad if I accidentally go .003"? My pistons are stock bore, forged aluminum wiseco pistons. I was just wondering if these numbers sound right.