Jump to content

Tyler S

Members
  • Posts

    59
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Tyler S

  1. I want to get my cylinders ported and my crank welded up. Whats the best place to go, I live in Buffalo NY? Not a big deal if I have to send them out I got a lot time. Cylinders also have to be fitted for new pistons as well. I'm sure that one of the site sponsors will take good care of me but just curious which one.
  2. So i'm treating down my motor just to check everything, it's winter here in buffalo not riding much. Top end is wore out and it needs to be bored. Right now the motor is completely stock except for T5 pipes. The crank is literally perfect but I might as well add some power while I have it apart. I was looking at a big bore kit and came across the athena 392 kit basically because it was affordable. After doing some research I found that it's pretty much a waste of time. Am I better off going with my stock cylinders but getting them ported? I have heard that the vitos kit is pretty good, is that true? Or overall will I see the best power improvement form a stroker crank. Really don't want to go that route because of the money. Will be getting some 30mm carbs and reeds in the future.
  3. T5's with proper jetting, nothing else maybe a port job in the future.
  4. How much different will it actually perform? Ive never had anything with a wrapped exhaust. I understand that it helps retain heat in the pipes but I doubt its going to add any nock your socks off power.
  5. I'm literally only doing it for the look, I could care less about the heat retention. I just want to try something different.
  6. No I mean like a header wrap that you would use on a car. Some custom motorcycles also have the exhaust wrapped.
  7. It might help to go to a smaller pilot.
  8. I'm thinking about wrapping my exhaust from the headers to where the expansion chambers meet the mufflers. (I have t5's) The main reason I want to is that the previous owner spray painted them with some shit walmart paint and they are just peeling off. They are chrome underneath but it's not in the greatest shape. Yeah I could strip them and have them plated again but I think it would look pretty cool wrapped, everybody has chrome pipes. Thanks for the input.
  9. Ive been told that running to much oil in your gas will result in a lean condition. I was just curious if anybody has ever seen this, theoretically it can be true because you physically have less gas and more oil. However, in my opinion if you have that much oil the cylinders wouldn't even heat up to cause any damage due to the extreme amount of oil let alone run at all. I have always double mixed my first gallon of gas in a new engine and never had any problems. Just curious cause I just built my friends banshee and he freaked out when I told him that it was mixed 16:1.
  10. I have a stock exhaust with aftermarket red silicone clamps/tube to connect the mid pipe and the header, the hose clamps keep coming loose and the silicone starts to slide, if I crank on the hose clamps it just deforms the clamps and the silicone, just wondering if there are any tips out there to help with this. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Yeah that's what I thought. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I'm running a freshly built stock machine with pod filters, right now I have 240 mains instead of the 210's. The 240's are a little fat which I kinda expected, I wanted to be safe for the first ride. Can I go back to the 210's for the next ride or will I risk doing damage, I think that 220's or 230's are going to be perfect but I'm going for a ride this weekend and I don't have the money for a new set of jets (I'm in college). The plugs were tan with a hint of black with the 240's, I wasn't really riding it hard in the top end though. I understand that pod filters won't add a ton of extra air but I'm sure there's going to be a tiny bit more at WFO. Thanks for the help ahead of time, I understand jetting I've done many other machines, this is my first banshee so just wondering what the guys with more experience than me are doing.
  13. Just glittery specs, the gears look brand new and everything is installed correctly so I doubt the gears are grinding down. Just went for a hard ride yesterday and everything seemed good. Will drain the oil tommorow to see what I find. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Get an o-ring chain or x-ring, they last 10 times as long as a standard roller chain. Always change your sprockets too, if not it will wear your new chain very quickly. As for getting a cheap chain I would try and get the best you can with your budget. Especially on a banshee with so much power the last thing you want to do is break a chain, it will probably wreck your engine case if it does break. Finally, if you get a colored one it will add about 9hp.
  15. I just rebuilt my motor, everything in the tranny is stock and was reused. I am using the same clutch that came off of the original motor, everything was within spec. I just used normal 10w30 motor oil nothing special and when I went to drain it right after the first ride it had some metal filings in it. Nothing crazy there wasn't any chunks or anything like that. I personally think it is the clutch plates because it doesn't look like steel, its more like brass or something gold colored. I don't know if its normal its my first banshee and I know on chain cases for snowmobiles it is perfectly normal to see some metal filings.
  16. Ok cool. No I've yet to ride a legal trail yet lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Hey i'm out in hamburg NY just got my Banshee built i'd love to come ride with you guys.
  18. Yeah there pretty shitty to be honest. Those are gonna be the first things to go this summer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Yeah did all machine work myself. As for the shocks they ride just like the stock ones nothing special. There actually are about an inch to long so they put a lot of pressure on the bottom ball joint, probably not good. I think that it did have a red frame but I liked the black better so I went with that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Hahaha I know right. I was almost kinda pissed I couldn't reuse it lol. Its actually off of something completely different I think, it doesn't really fit on the shaft the right way and there is no ball detent. And yes the tools are mine, plan on fixing stuff for the rest of my life so it was worth every penny.
  21. Haha, I wish. I'm actually going to school at SUNY Canton, my major is powersports performance and repair. This was actually my final project for the class. Thats why all the sleds and boat engines are in the back round they're all trainers. As sad as it sounds the fastest that 2015 polaris pro-ride has ever gone is 17mph lol.
  22. Yes re-sleeved the original cylinders, this is what I had to work with so it's not completely original. This is my first Banshee or real sport quad for that matter (I'm 18) so it may seem slow to some guys, but it rips like a motherfucker to me. I'm sure in a couple years I'll have a built Banshee but for now this satisfies my needs.
  23. Finally finished the build, the bike is a completely stock 1987 Yamaha banshee. When i bought it, it was pretty beat but original. The fact that the banshee is such an iconic quad I decided to do sort of a restoration. Yeah it's got black wheels, nerf bars and POS Chinese front shocks but it still kicks ass for a 29 year old machine. Just wondering if it's up to ur guys standards, I know I'm new around here. Following things that are new, Re-sleeved cylinders, stick bore wiseco pistons New stock head Wheel bearings New spindles New brakes New lower a arm, was bent New axle New swing arm New carrier bearings New seat cover New sprockets Red chain +9 hp New cables New tires Rear shock rebuilt New grips New carbs, had 32mm skidoo sled carbs when I got it Complete gasket and seal kit Trail tech vapor kit New linkage bushings New swing arm bearings New steering stem bearings I'm sure there's more I just can't think of it all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Thanks everyone for the input, yeah I looked at the fireball racing set. If I ever end up breaking these i'll put up the cash to get the aftermarket ones.
  25. If you still have the tors system, unplug the connector to the little box up by the coil under the tank. This should disable the tors and if you get spark theres your problem. If there is no tors make sure you have new plugs, good wires and good caps, if not replace any parts that are wore out. If still no spark you will have to unplug the stator and check all of the coils for resistance. Get a digital multi-meter and set it to ohms or resistance. Put one meter lead on the red wire and the other on the green wire coming out of the stator, the restating should be 13 to 20 ohms. This is the ignition coil so if you are reading OL or the wrong resistance that means there is a short somewhere. If it is OL that means that the wire is broken somewhere, if it is the wrong resistance that means that the windings are probably shorted and it is skipping over part of the coil. Next step is to check the trigger coil this is the red/white and green/white wires, this resistance should be 94 to 140 ohms. If you have OL or the wrong reading for this the same applies for this coil. You can also test the black and yellow wires if you want, however those are for the lighting system so they really don't matter for spark. If everything is good here, check all of the wires to the cdi box and then to the coil under the tank and make sure that everything is good. Next would be check the coil under the tank, the best way to test this one is to switch it out with one that you know is good. If there still is no spark at this point I would check that all of the grounds on the bike are good and still exist, the one on the frame by the voltage regulator and the coil under the tank grounds to the frame so make sure it is clean. I would also check the resistance of the spark plug cap, unscrew it and remove it to check the resistance, it should by about 5,000 ohms. I would also check your flywheel and make sure that there are no broken magnets and that the trigger coil gap is within spec. If all of these items are good than it is probably your cdi box, there is no way to actually check the cdi box. Hope this helps.
×
×
  • Create New...