RIPPIN' IT UP

What porting? Sent from my Z6 using Tapatalk

Check the choke tube between the carbs? Sent from my Z6 using Tapatalk

https://vimeo.com/170898763 Just a quick video, to show the unit operating. Sent from my Z6 using Tapatalk

PM with questions. Sent from my Z6 using Tapatalk

This unit is to suit years 97-onwards with the square type plug. Sent from my Z6 using Tapatalk

Sent from my Z6 using Tapatalk

First of all hello from Far North Queensland Australia, I have a Vortex X10 ignition for sale this unit came off my 2011 Yamaha Banshee 350, was swapped out for another aftermarket ignition. Has been a very good unit, bike performs well but just wanted to change. This unit cost over $600AUD to buy plus shipping, yours today for $430AUD plus $$ for Economy Air shipping comes with all the original paperwork that came with the unit, Installation Instructions & X10 Map Setting sheet, this also includes the handle bar switch for the unit. If there are any question please feel free to contact me, I will do my best to answer them in a timely fashion. All prices in Australian Dollars. Photos to come.

Had a similar situation, where the right side wasn't firing at idle went well 1/4 throttle & up. Blocked jet pilot jet, water had gotten up one of the short breather hoses when washing it then got stuck in the jet. Sent from my Z6 using Tapatalk

Just bought another one for a spare just in case I put a stick through the one I have now. Here is the link http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminum-Radiator-Fits-Yamaha-banshee-YFZ350 -oversized-ATV-YFZ-350-2-Rows-new-/162038196771?nav=SEARCH Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk

When looking at ones on ebay, go with the ones from radiator & cooling shops, that's where I got mine from back in 2013, cost $99AUD still kicking today, no leaks or faults. Just run a good quality corrosion inhibitor/coolant, or for people in the cold areas a good anti freeze. Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk

Interested just in the cylinders on there own, shipped to Australia? Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk

If your keeping the key I suggest tying it to something so it's harder to loose. Been there done that. Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk

Key radiator shroud. Wiring should reach & key body should clear the radiator. Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk

Bar angle. Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk

That is it the key isn't going to stop someone from stealing it if they really want it, however all you have to do is make your a bit harder to steel then the next person. That's why i thought about mounting the key in the radiator shroud cause if I %$@#ed it up I could just replace the shroud.

When I fitted the bars, got everything on there but left it loose enough to move, then stood in the attack position & rolled the bars back and forth until it was comfortable. Centered them, then tightened the mounting to spec(20Nm/14ft.lbs), the sat on the bike and seen how if felt, done the same with the clutch, brake and controls. After that, turned the steering from one side to the other making sure nothing pulled or rubbed and cabled tied wiring harness in place or anything that was going to chaff. The bars ended up slightly off vertical towards the rider, pics to follow soon. As for the key not sure what I'm going to do with it. I just did a similar thing to what RagunCajan said to do for the time being. I completely understand your opinion on the plastics, and if you want to go that way could try a 1 1/8 Stauff clamp(attached pic) used for hydraulic hose and lines with some aluminum plate mounted between the bar clamps with the key. Round the corners off, mount the key in it & polish it up to look nice Just an idea.

First attempt to upload pictures hope it works. Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk

First of all hello from Far North Queensland, Australia. Got a set of flexx bars on my shee, low 15 degree bend from memory, clutch mounted up fine, Just joined the two key wires for now until I find a position for the key. I was thinking right side of the radiator shroud. Installed a pro armor tether when the bars went on, ran the wiring back through the factory harness and soldered it into the kill switch. I don't like to cut and join into wires, just a pet hate of mine. Placed the switch right side of the bar mounts. I'll try get some pics,

I have installed V Force 4 reeds in my shee, they are very easy to do. The reeds come with a stuffer in them. The intake boot has a primative form of stuffer that goes in the stock reed cage it gets in the way. This is what they are refering to to cut off. Now if you follow there instruction they use a washer has a spacer between the intake boot and the stock cage, this is all held together with a nut and bolt. (off the engine of course). Using a hack saw blade in the gap between the cage and boot to cut these rubber blocks off. I did that for my first side, the hack saw blade leaves a very rough finish and leaves heaps of little rubber shaving everywhere. The second side i just used a brand new stanley blade or box cutter, much better finish and no shavings, didn't even bother bolting the boot and cage togther with the washer spacer. Hope that make some kinda sense and helps ya out.