sr73087

In neutral, which is puzzling

So I adjusted my clutch after having a shifting issue and after the adjustment it is much better however shifting is still not great and sometimes does not want to go into the next gear. However, I noticed the bike jerks slightly in neutral. Is this typically a symptom of a clutch issue? I attached a video of this, keep an eye on the chain. http://vid138.photobucket.com/albums/q256/sr73087/IMG_2642.mp4

So I drove it around the yard again and there is definitely a clutch issue. It will shift just fine through the gears while off but while moving it is very difficult to shift. So I drained the oil and found a good amount of debris in the trans oil. Is this much junk normal in wet clutch atvs? It looked like mostly junk with small amounts of metal, I am hoping this is mainly clutch material? With that being said this is the 1st time I am draining the fully filed trans since owning it.

I actually switched out the needle and seat awhile back when I first attempted to resolve these issues. The one that was in there was alittle worn though. If that is new, does it basically only point to float height since that is what is allowing the needle to open? Regarding the clutch, when you say normal, do you mean normal wear? Or normal like that is a normal symptom of a particular issue?

So I changed out the plugs (gapped at .030, same as what came out). Checked the slides and they were in correctly. Not sure if the adjustment is perfect, but they aren't in backwards. Added the choke tube. I started it up and it ran well. No surge like before, since we fixed the vac leaks. It didn't puff white smoke even close to what it previously did. I only drove it around my property, but it had good power through 1st. Idle seemed very good, would not stall out like before. So now the most important issues are: -carb overflows on left side (float height would be the only thing I assume?) -clutch wants to engage when cold, even with clutch lever pressed down (Is this just adjustment or could it be something else, since it did not do this before?)

Yea they are not in the best shape. Looks like you are right, most people on here are saying the boost bottle is completely unnecessary. So just buy a stock crossover tube? Another thing I did notice was is there supposed to be a choke tube between the carbs? Picture attached, I do not see one.

I will pick up some new plugs tomorrow. Could it be that simple that it isn't efficiently burning the mixture? I know my float height is incorrect since the carbs continue to spill some fuel. Not sure on the jetting however. What do you mean slides in backwards? Are you referring to the boost bottle?

So back from the dead. I finally got some time to get back to this. I did the leakdown and compression tests earlier today. One thing to note was both plugs were oily and when I pulled the left exhaust, there was a ton a black oil in it. Also, I fixed a major leak by the boost bottle. Which can explain the idle surge I was having. Compression test Cold Right 115 psi Left 117 psi Leakdown Pressurized to 6 psi, dropped to about 5.25 in 6 minutes. The tester I made had a slight leak near the gauge, so I attribute some of the drop to this. I sprayed the crap out of the whole top end and only found a trickle of a leak coming from the crankcase. Not sure how serious of a leak this is. Below is a picture of the breather after 6-7 minutes. After it was all back together, I started it and it ran ok for about a minute and then died. Left side blowing alot of smoke (same as the shit load of oil).

Main: 280 Needle: 345 Pilot: 30

perfect thanks

I thought he meant the actual choke itself. But good call. Yea I hear you, it makes sense. For the leakdown, I found a nice writeup on making the tool. Is that how most people on here do it? Sort of like this.... http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1061686-build-your-own-diy-yz250-leak-down-tester-pics-included/

Thanks I really appreciate your help. I also noticed a huge issue. They never had the choke crossover tube hooked up, which is causing a large vacuum leak. It makes complete sense on why it had to be reved and likely caused a lean issue, correct? Can I just use a piece of .25 fuel hose for that? I measured the OD and it is 0.27.

Ok for the main jet I have a 280. I will pull the others tomorrow.

Yes I see the tool. The brake measuring tool is the same idea. Do you know what they look like? I verified my reading with a veneer caliper as well. I have done a great deal of research on this including reading this section of the manual many times and its not rocket science. Many on this board and other certified instructors will tell you alot of guys don't even use a gauge. Supposedly getting the float parallel to the carb body is usually a good starting point on most carbs.

It was measured. I used my brake pad measuring tool. The only thing I questioned was, what is considered the "top" of the float? The top closest to the needle or the highest point? There is a few mm difference. I can take a picture if that helps explain what I am asking.

If the float height was off, which it was way too high (while working on it upside down), this is how the manual says to adjust it. Isn't adjusting the tang the only way to address this issue?

I'm more into hondas but I hear you haha I actually replaced mine, so yep it is there.

I have one. Very helpful. Yep, I read through a bunch of this earlier. Its great info.

Got it. Its not a problem to pull the carbs again and get those measurements. Just point me in the right direction and I can take care of the rest with some guidance the 1st time.

Like I said I normally deal with fuel injection. This is my first time learning about this. Is it the same process as a 4 stroke? I have not done a 2 stroke leak down. No plug reading. I need to get a fresh set of plugs. Am I safer getting 1 step colder plugs or don't worry about it just yet? The floats had to be adjusted to correct the overflow issue. What other way would you suggest addressing this issue? Needle and needle seat were clean, bowl was clean.

Pretty close to the exact specs listed on the amsoil bottle. I normally make it easy when mixing 2 stroke. I pump EXACTLY what I need to use a full bottle of oil and just dump it in and mix it around. Everything has always run great. This time I had 0.75 gallons of fuel and had to add 2.6 oz for everything gallon. In order to get the correct proportion (.75*2.6)=2 oz of oil. Like I said it could be like .001% off, but since I don't have experience, I wasn't sure if this could be a factor. Like I said don't think so, but I want to be sure that it is likely a jetting problem.

Mixture was ok but could be like .001% off. But I am not sure how sensitive this motor is. If its not completely on point does performance suffer. I feel like this probably is not it since people seem to all run slightly different mixtures, but I wanted to hear what people who have alot of experience have to say. It looked like the person who had it just liked to pull things apart and then not put them back together properly. So when I bought it, it ran but would not shift (fixed) and it would piss fuel out of the overflow and a bunch of other missing bolts. So I checked the carb and ended up having to majorly adjust the float height. I am concerned about as well since to get the correct height the tabs on both carbs the tabs on the float are bent at very different angles to achieve the correct height. I am a car person, so I have lots of major mechanical experience but not really with carbs. It seems easy enough to understand but I obviously don't know everything.

So I picked up a Banshee awhile back from a young guy who bought it as a project and didn't have the time or expertise to really get it running. Anyway today I finally got her running. However, it only starts with alittle throttle and must we reved constantly to keep it running. I rode it around the block today and it ran ok, but seemed to sputter alittle at lower rpms especially under load. While driving around the block, I got on it once and it seemed like it smoothed out as the rpms increased. It did look to be blowing whitish smoke especially during start up. The motor has the TORS removal setup and a toomy t5 exhaust. I am not sure if it has anything done internally since I bought it cheap not running. Jetting wise I am not sure if it has been adjusted for the known mods yet or not. -I know my fuel mixture was not perfect but pretty close, could this simply be a mixture problem or is my jetting likely not correct? I have not messed with the idle adjustment screws at all.

the top of the needle is spring loaded. It will allow the float to continue down, but does not affect the needle itself.

And that is just seating the needle but without compressing the spring correct?