sr73087

So they are duel filament with a high and a low but the switch is off of an older banshee with the circle plug and some hack wiring. One bulb did have one filament out, but the other was fine. They both go out completely with the high beam switched on.

Just measured and one was 12 3/8 and the other was over 13.

They are stock as far as I know. If I needed a different bulb I would think they would just stay lite rather than going out when flipped to high. That was the first thing I did.

And both the left and right are the same length right? Not sure what this guy before me did. Never again will I get into someone else's project.

What is the standard bolt size, length and pitch for banshee fairings? I tried my taps to match it up, but it seems close to an M6x1.00 but it didn't want to run through, so I didn't force it.

So I bought an unfinished project off someone a few years back. I am finally buttoning up all the little issues. I noticed the toe looked to be out. So I went to adjust it and noticed the LF tie rod is about an inch longer and completely different style than the RF one. This does not look correct. Can someone confirm their tie rod length without ends on a stock setup or will this vary based on model year?

I ohmed out the switch and it looks like the issue is there. The bike is a Frankenstein and looks to have the old circle plug with something wire nutted and tapped on the harness. I'll have to pull this apart and see if it was originally a harness from a 98 and they made an older switch work.

My 98 has an issue where the low beams work, however as soon as I flip on the highs the lights go out. Is this a normal issue? I have the helms, so I can take a look at the wiring but thought it could be helpful if anyone else has had this issue.

So I can use some new front tires. I have Shredders in the rear, and mainly will be riding trails and possibly having some fun in a few inches of snow. What would a good "bang for the buck" tire be up front? I bought the bike with all of these on there.

So I have no issue at all finding neutral when it is off. However, while running I can't find it. Is this something alot of you find happens to you as well?

Ok that is what i thought. Thanks guys.

So the rotors are interchangeable, but I would need to switch over the bolts based on the hubs? And the knuckle on the left side (side I need a caliper), is off an a-arm? Just to clarify, I have an a-arm upper and lower control arm with a J-arm brake setup?

Actually looks like I found it. http://www.snowatvreg.dcnr.state.pa.us/

So just getting back to this, I know its been awhile. It looks like the right side is definitely the 87-89 and all together, however the left side is something different. I just want to verify that I just need a spindle. It looks like the hub is the same. The reason I realized this is that I purchased an 87-89 brake caliper with bracket and the spacing is different so the caliper bracket will not bolt up.

Yea way too much on my plate. In the process of listing the house, so a bunch of little projects around there. Hopefully some time to ride after this all settles.

You are right it is 1.25". Thanks for the help, this should be the one.

So I am moving to pa in a few months, who exactly do I contact about this? I checked out the website but did not find any info about this. It is not like a car where I can go to a tag place in PA? http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/

So I replaced the clutch cable and adjusted finally and the clutch pull feels great but while cold, if I shift into 1st, the quad wants to die. If I let it warm up, it seems normal. One thing to not is that the trans and clutch plates were drained for awhile. Could this simply be sticky clutch plates and once they get the proper lubrication they should function properly? Still haven't shifted up and down under much throttle yet to see if that issue was resolved as well.

I think this is correct. I tried the warrior one back when I created this thread and it did not work. Does anyone have the dimensions on hand? I am contacting that seller as well. I need something that is 2" between the screw holes on the left and front right. 2" between the left and back right and 1.5" between the two holes on the right side.

Sorry this time I did not take a picture. Phone was inside charging. I'll snap I pic when I pull the clutch cover Yea, you are probably correct. Is there a write up on here? I have the clymers either way.

Well I was able to get back to this project today and am adjusting my clutch after installing a new cable. I it for a few minutes to warm it up and then shut it down and drained the oil. The magnetic plug had a decent amount of crud on there, I noticed 1 big piece of debris. The oil looked grayish. What does clutch material typically look like? I am pretty concerned but hoping this could be crud that had to be flushed out......maybe just wishful thinking.

Makes complete sense. Just ordered the cable. I hate the levers on mine. What would you suggest that give you the proper throw?

So you think it may be stretching? So even if the adjustment is fine, it may stretch under a load?

It shifts just fine with the engine off. Cable is not in great shape but it adjusted almost all the way in, so lots of room to tighten. Would this be a symptom of a clutch set too tight?

Ok so that is good news. I am still concerned however about the shifting issues. Until it is warm it still will stall if I put it in 1st with the clutch it. It will lurch forward and die. If I try to kickstart while in 1st with the clutch in, it will pull forward slightly. Once it warms up it will not die, but may cause me to slowly roll forward. Unit will start and idle very well in neutral. Once moving many times it will not shift to the next gear regardless of rpm range. Seems to downshift alittle easier than upshift.