tfaith08

I doubt so. The Shearers move much more exhaust than the T5s. The T5s sign off a little earlier than most top-end pipes and I'd call them more upper-midrange pipes. IIRC, they sign off about the same time as SLP, but SLP makes a lot more bottom end power and power up the face.

Take a picture of the piston crown, please. I can't find anything on an 8021h that pertains to any piston.

Or send it to someone that can make an experienced decision after gauging and micing them, preferably a Banshee oriented shop that'll have those sizes in stock.

I've had trouble with them before. I had a KX85 and a Blaster that popped in the old shop with them loctited on and the threads were screwed on the Blaster and the KX would barely come off; I was scared I was gonna break something. I'm not even remotely joking when I say that it will act like a lubricant while wet and you will drastically overtighten the nut. I've never had a problem witht he flywheel coming off on it's own if the threads were clean.

Loctite will act as a lubricant while wet. If you torque it to spec with the loctite in palce, you effectively overtighten it A LOT.

CANADA

USA

http://forums.everything2stroke.com/threads/50979-New-Banshee-Air-Box-Mod!

That's not what I'm talking about. I'm fully aware that he's done some dumb shit. Here's an example of what I meant: He needed a better chassis, found the flaws, and identified possible solutions. Huge plus. That's the good that I'm referring to. His execution is not what I'd consider to be a good route. That's the bad, or the conclusion, that I meant. He needed a better clutch setup, found the weak points, and made his own. Huge plus. His execution wasn't very good. Again, bad reasoning with good information. The information (some) is what is useful. That's what I've taken from his posts.

This post is useless. Numbers. Post numbers. Links, dynos, videos AND thorough information, and quantifiable information. I encourage progress and flow of information. If there is a builder out there that'll topple what K&T and A&S can do on a drag or what Redline, Fast, and HJR do for everything else, we need to see them. You claiming that there is information out there that we don't know about is pointless unless you actually show the information.

I consider the things he posts as well as everyone else's. I don't care much for who posts what, nor the conclusions they state. If the information is there, I'll make my own determinations. One thing you can't deny is that he always HAS reasoning. That doesn't attest any to the conclusions he derives from that reasoning, only that he always has A reason. The information is what I look at.

As far as the Air Turbo or whatever it is, Thacker did show that it was superior to the factory unit from what I can recall. Glorfindel, maybe you can elaborate on why it is "shit." I'm not saying whether it is or isn't because I didn't do the research, nor am I interested in it, but "Air turbo is shit for sure" doesn't stand on it's own enough to hold water.

There's a bit of ignorance in this post. People send these engines from all over the world to the builders in the US. That isn't because it's the US, it's because that's where the highest concentration of good builders happen to be located. It's on the verge of coincodental. How many builders can you find outside the US that compete with what has been proven here? There are bound to be a few, but not many. Talking to someone on facebook is not what most would quantify as experience, nor is it where the majority of users here get their opinions and experience. On the other hand, if I see 20 people say the same exact thing about one product and all things are considered, I'm going to lean toward their opinion and find the basis for their claims. Also, this site isn't a dedicated USA Banshee site. There are a decent amount of people from all over that make significant contributions. Furthermore, the Banshee can be made to work by an idiot and enough time. If you want to make it work very well and do so for an extended period of time, it takes experience. The US is the speed capital of the world until you start talking about Japanese cars, in which case Japan and Australia king. You think that because you came on here and told everyone that US builders aren't doing things properly is going to revolutionize a decade old culmination of knowledge and experience? It isn't. If there are other good builders, we know about them already OR they're so new that we haven't heard about them yet simply because they're so new, in which case they're likely not that good. That isn't to say that there isn't a good builder that isn't a sponsor or isn't recommended by this page, only that there are likely to be significant issues. It's easy enough to say builder X is known to be good, go with them. At that point, it isn't a wager on whether you'll get an engine back AND whether it's going to last, AND whether it's going to be fast.

I'm about to ditch my stock carrier in a week or so. If you need it, lmk.

Are you running a Pro Flow kit with that K&N? If not, I'd recommend that or pods. The factory filter setup isn't too great. With T5s, K&N w/ lid, probably 260-290 main, toomey needle in 3rd from bottom position. W/o lid, 290-340 main, 2nd from bottom would be a good start. Start big and work down. Try some 27.5 or 30 pilots as well. As stated above, you'll want to leak test and set the float height. My setup and elevation is close to yours and I'm at 340 mains, 2nd from bottom on needle, 27.5 pilots.

This is where most people mess up. It would be easiest to send it to a builder with the understanding that you know that it may need a bore, so you're good on the idea. Ordering a size up may or may not be necessary. The bore needs to be matched to the pistons, which is best done in a shop where they already have the pistons you'll likely need in stock. The alternative is to send it to someone and have them gauge and mic them, order pistons, then take it back to them. All in all, it costs most people $450 ish to ship and engine AND pay for teardown and assembly. That gets you nice little things like assurance, reliability, fewer headaches, time to do other thigns, and a direction to point a finger if ever need be. Of course, that's only if you choose a good shop.

I've been trying to help a guy with a BPR 4mil build. He wasn't happy with the outcome and received no customer support on it. I've been giving him recommendations on assembly and tuning. I agree with Zilla. That's what I'll be buying when mine lets go. If nothing else, send the engine to Redline, FAST, HJR and tell them what you want and how much you have to spend.

Hot rods No trenching with a 4mil Wiseco pistons Any head that uses pd domes. VF4 reeds No clue on lockout Sent from over there.

Until he tells us how it runs, it's based off of looks. Sent from over there.

I don't think equating an ugly intake with more power is a good rule of thumb to pass around. You can create turbulence with a symmetrical and decently finished port.

Flooding is float related. Have you cleaned the carbs and set the float height? Sent from over there.

If you ever see a few sets of test cylinders from a good builder, you'll wonder how they ran at all. Sent from over there.

Not necessarily. I was nit-picking. It may be a damn good port, but it's impossible to say without durations. Sent from over there.

The transfer bottoms is one thing, but the intakes are way too easy to get symmetrical. Sent from over there.

Maybe it's just the direction he traveled while finishing, but there seems to be a significant amount of asymmetry. Sent from over there.