Sheedawg28

Gotcha..I'll replace them also and do the rest hopefully the last time in a while I'll have to replace one. It's getting old.

So your saying to get new domes and I should be fine? It is slightly dinged right where t happened but on the outside portion if you look closely. I dropped that one ha.

haha you seem to be the only one that thinks it's faster with a non beadlock wheel. Taking the bolts off takes literally if even a minute you then flip it over throw it on the bead breaker and it's off in another minute. Throw the new one on and screw the bead back on..literally takes 5 min at most and you don't have to worry about damaging the wheels with spoons.

I wish I knew. Hp2000 gave me some advice. So I'm going to go with a one step colder plug and check the compression after I throw in a new o-ring.

Where that happened it looks like a little cross almost next to the stud.. See it?

This damn beezy for the 3rd time

So like Bennett said they definitely will take a beating a lot better than your average wheels. I've also slightly popped the bead off regular wheels from sliding into a corner and catching a fat rut which beadlocks help with. And if you think you can swap out tires quick with non bead lock wheels you should see how quick that's doable with beadlocks and only having to pop the bead off on one side. I guess I could add in here also that unlike regular wheels where if you do happen to bash the lip with a rock you can always replace the ring. I don't rock them in the front since I haven't felt it be necessary since I don't through as many tired as the rear and if I do bang the fronts up they're pretty cheap but these rolled lips on the DWT's have held up to some good sideways bands into rocks in the little trail I riding I've done with them.

I would try and use that excuse also after looking like a dit ditty

It's at the legal limit for Mx racing and I wouldn't have it any other ways it's helped it tremendously. I'm not big on chrome or polish so I'd definitely agree with you ditching them haha.

No worries man ask away. The arms are +3 +1 with 4+1 offset wheels in the front and 3+5 in the rear.

That's a -2 from JL engineering.

Damn bigweav was on the money with the color ha. Yea they're a bit goldish they were a tad bit more chrome looking before but they've always had that goldish hint to them and became more noticeable the first day I ran them.

Haha what sheerider said. It'll probably be someone else's picture or turn out looking so edited it looks fake ha. Here since you didn't like the last one. I edited the edges here for you..looks sweeter eh?

Make sure you start a build thread so we can check it out. Well so far they've been good to me and have held up really well to the little abuse I've put them through. My only issue was the mount that the bottom bolt, bolts through was misaligned just a cunt hair so I had to drill the hole a tiny bit to get it to fit other than that, solid.

Well let's see what you got of your bike big shot?

Sure, here's the latest one I have.

Working on piecing some goods together.

Keep the updates coming, good work so far.

That's like me asking if you guys in New York are ever on dirt and not wheeling or burning out at stop lights. Can't speak for the rest of the guys but apprently you've never watched a baja 1000 race as it goes into the night.

For sure man you'll like it definitely a solid set up!

It is but that doesn't matter as its running off AC power which is why I had to keep the revs up to get it as bright. Once I get the other rectifier and battery pack and plug it in, then it'll be running off DC power and I won't have to worry about having to rev it to get them as bright and even switch them on without the bike running.

Haha did you not read what I said? "I'm going to be changing up this set up" therefore it's only temporary.

So finally got around to testing out the bumper with the integrated LED light bar. I should have the reg/rectifier here soon so I figured I would mount it for those of you that just want to mount the bumper with the integrated LED light bar without it solely. Of course the light bar isn't as bright as it gets since it's still running off AC power in the 2nd picture facing the quad, so you have to rev it up to get it to its full brightness which I couldn't do at the same time. Here's a picture of how easy it is to install. I used the yellow wire since that's for your brights so the light bar is only on when I turn the high's on but you could also run 2 wires from the positive wire off the LED bar and plug it into the green for when you turn on your low's and the other to the high's, this way the light bar is always on but since I'm going to be changing up this set up I only used just the wire off the LED bar and tapped into the yellow wire which is high's. Anyways here's a picture of that, I used T-tap wire connectors for easy of instal instead of soldering them in..if you decide to do this as your permanent set up I'd wrap it in electrical tape to keep water and debri out. Now this picture is with the only the stock lights on low but I'm revving the bike to get it to its maximum wattage output (brightest) This is the money picture now, stock lights set on high which turns on the light bar and I'm also revving it up to get it to its peak output here once again for good comparison. The picture doesn't don't justice of course but you all get a good idea of how much nicer it is.

So there was a slight snag with the bracket but nothing serious it just kept it from fitting completely flush but it's all good and fixed now I should have it back either today or tomorrow. I also sent JL engineering my AC racing grab bar to add some color.

Dig the color scheme