gonzodesign

I am curious to the fuel? what dome design? what RPM does it run? what timing?

I traveled to a crank manufacturer in Taiwan awhile back, I seen a cranksworks crank and seen the added weight at the bottom of the crank and was interested in their formula

how much compression do you have now? I would suggest getting a good compression gauge before just throwing on a supposed 20cc dome, if you get the Noss head measure the width of the squish band first, then measure the squish clearance, then measure compression, 155 lbs is about the end of premium fuel, 165 mix of race fuel and premium, and if its me go no higher than 160, if you don't want to bother doing those 3 things you are at someone else's mercy, if you do those 3 and understand what they do you will know exactly what your motors doing not guessing

pin gap is the notch in the ring where the locator pin goes when the ring is completely compressed in the cylinder, people would get an oversize ring and file it to fit but you need to relieve the notch as well, an easy way to see if your ok is put the ring on the piston while the piston is off the crank install it in your bore and rotate the piston right to left until you feel the piston start to hit the pin and want to turn the rings, if you have .015 to .020 movement your good to go, takes 2 minutes to check

I think your gonna need some stroker domes and alot more CC's

I believe there is a 60% balance factor on all these Banshee cranks, when you start to get compression over 170 I think its time to change it, or do people just say screw it and run it until it blows up?

can I ask a question why would anyone run 210 PSI compression in a Banshee that is getting an off the shelf 4 mil crank

properly is a leakdown, a simple way is it smokes alot and it stinks (burning the trans oil) or pull the stator cover and spray starting fluid when its running to see if it reacts with a different RPM

a bike sitting for 3 years in my opinion will get new crank seals, after years of sitting the rubber attaches itself permanetly to the crank and as soon as you kick it over you tear the seal, not always but this is more common than you think, you may have torn the mag side and now you have an air leak

no less than .014 and if you file the end gap at all make sure you have enough pin gap as well, the ring will get hot and you will have those nice lines engraved up and down the cylinder where the ring end gap is, its not from end gap pin gap causes that.

if the PTO seal is installed backwards and the other side has a solid rubber ring (and some do) you need to turn it around, those notches are a breather for oiling the bearing, I learned along time ago things are not engineered and custom tooling made because Yamaha wants to waste money, they do things for a reason

I learned at Daytona the word stock, after a supersport race the winners Honda was torn down and the AMA rule book stated "OEM pistons up to 1mil over bore" well these pistons he had in this bike which was built by Honda had domes welded up and valve pockets machined in them and 13:1 compression! their argument was they are OEM they are modified is all, you didn't say they had to be untouched and completely stock, so I think he's legal to cut the head, modify the reed cage and stops, bore the carbs modify the stock air box, slot the stator plate, cut the head pipe and port the cylinders with those mods he can see his goals easily

I believe you will achieve your goal, and the wife will have a good rideable Banshee

Wiseco pistons are mainly made in Taiwan, as is most all hot-rod and Wiseco cranks, art pistons are made in Taiwan as well

PTO is backwards flywheel is good and yes you can re-use, did you apply grease to the seal where it rides the crank?

I will run some numbers at work and see what I come up with, I have measured 4-500 domes in my life and have not found to many that are the size they say, I am a machinist that makes my own parts so if they are wrong they are remade to the exact size thats needed, you will not ever find me soliciting work from anyone on here or telling anyone they are a dumb fuck, and I certainly do not purchase parts and bolt then on hoping they are whats advertised, I run a 66mm bore 4 mil and its for shear speed, it is for tracks like Daytona or Bonneville, so anything over 155-165 psi I would not do, getting 95HP with lower compression is much more fun, but I'm not a drag racer and never ever blow things up I stopped doing that in the 80's

I machine a few parts, a 2mil increase in stroke does make a difference as long as the exhaust port timing is the same as a stock cylinder if its a little higher than stock now you are losing the advantage you speak of, he must be running a 9 degree piston with a 6 mil offset, losing more of the advantage of saying its a big bore, he is running a slightly thicker base gasket which will not help, I believe his trapped volume is not as much as you think, unlike you I may be off and will gladly appoligize, if he will tell us his total exhaust duration we could narrow it down to a couple pounds

that's what I was thinking

stroke doesn't matter, you set squish then the cc's are above that

sheerider how do you get 165psi running 24cc domes?

he obviously does not have 24cc domes

in his first post he said hes running 24cc domes a stock head is 23.5 so hes got more then stock and being stock is about 125 hes on about 120

@radar what don't you understand

you have 165 psi, you said you have 24cc dome's? which probably means 125 psi

everyone says to run it way up there but on gas its a bad idea, anyting over 165 really starts to hammer the motor, there becomes a mark where its un efficient, without an aggresive balance factor built into your cranks its hard to plow through that much compression, and if you arent into a ton of maintenance and totally understand combustion, squish velocity its best to be under 150psi, parts live longer and still make impressive numbers, just my .02.