fixitrod

How can you help with springs? I may need a new rear one

Are you talking about the intake ports? A lot of builders open the intake area but don't enlarge the port very much unless it's an extreme port job. Like I always say though, every builder is different because it's like an art form of it's own!!!

If all you do is drag race, you don't want a 4 stroke anyway.

Nope, just pull the one you are going to use tight and staple the bottom. If you pull it tight enough it will take the shape pretty good.

Mill the head .030 inches, port your reed cages with a dremel, get the flywheel lightened and advance the timing.

I don't know if the stock brake like works, but I think Cotton Eye Joe can get you a longer one if you need it.

Maybe you need to relax a little when you ride. I've seen people riding and it looks like they are fighting the quad. Try to loosen up when you can.

I won't ask about the tank... lmao

Yep, that's how it's done. If you pic up the latest motocross magazine you'll see an article on it.

If you go down hill a lot with the clutch pulled you will eventually weld the clutch adjuster rod to the ball. The motor will alway pull fuel in even with the slides down (no throttle). It's still a pump. It may rev higher than need be with the small amount of fuel and oil that is going to it, but it will still recieved some. If a motor is jetted properly, you shouldn't have any trouble. The fuel does the cooling and the oil does the lubing.

I had a little porting done when running some. I was at 340, 27.5 pilot and needle in middle position.

I have axis on mine and I have to agree.... works would be perfect for your wife. If you insist on elka's I don't think you need the rezzies.

I don't know what kind of horror stories you have heard. Mike and Luke are the service guys there. I've sent mine there and had perfect service. They re-valved for free.. charged a normal to low rate for the rebuild. I bought some new springs even and I think the whole charge was around 225 plus the shipping. That's the fronts rebuilt, o-ring kit, revalved (they do it for free) and a new set of springs. You can't beat that. They also run them on a dyno built for shocks to test them out. I wouldn't let anyone but axis touch my front or rear shocks.... no way.

Those bearings are pretty cheap. If one goes, it will take the crank, piston, cylinder and head with it. I'd spend the $20 and get new ones. I suprised the kit didn't come with them, but I guess there are different kits out there.

Hey guys, we did it... come on up. Actually, Jason and Mark did it... but so can you guys. That would be great !!!

Okay, maybe it just not adjusted far enough.

I have the barnet clutch but do not have that trouble. I did change to a hinson basket at the same time, so maybe it just catching on the grooves on the basket a little bit.

When I had my fatties on a pretty stock motor I ran 340 mains, 25 pilots (stock), and the needle lowered one position. Fatties seem to like a leaner needle. That was with no air lid and a k&n filter and stock carbs and 500' elevation in Indiana. Humid air here.

I don't see what kind of pipes you have or what type of riding you do. I also am very shocked you are running a 404 with stock carbs. That's a lot of vacuum for those carbs. I'm also suprised you don't have the timing advanced. 4-5 deg works good on gas and most pipes. v-force will get you some more "snap" and smooth pull on top. A lightened flywheel would be awesome on a big motor like that. Compression is something else you can play with. If you want to run higher compression you'll need higher octane fuel. Billet parts will make it lighter. We were suprised how light cotten eye joe's quad was. He has a lot of billet though.

If your getting spark and you got the excess fuel out of the cylinder and it's still not right you may have a broken reed.

I run maxima tundra R 40:1. The bottle says 32:1 up to 60:1. Depends on the oil you use.

Welcome to the forum. To tell you the truth 115lb's isn't bad at all. Let us know what your elevation is. When you suck it water, it's a good idea to turn it upside down with the spark plugs out and kick it over. That will allow most of the water to be flushed out. The biggest trouble with water is that it can bend a rod. Not super common, but it can happen. You can also blow the head gasket. Check all the connections in the wiring for corrosion, make positive sure you got the carbs clean. I dought not much if any actually made it into the carbs unless it was in the fuel tank. Put new gas and plugs in. Make sure the coil wires are in good. Fire it up, blip the throttle for a little bit. You don't want to rev it to high in case water is in there. If it doesn't smooth out after a little while you may have more damage... but I dought it with the compression being so close in each cylinder. Keep at it. I dought very much if any debris made it in if you had a filter on there... just the water. Make sure the pipes aren't full of water too. The won't be for long if you get it running

CarPool... lmao

I have to agree... that was some good stuff.

Sounds good to me too!!