fixitrod

Sorry about that, I could have swore a while back it was dave moore. Now I'm really impressed. Most usable motor I've ridden was yours.

Looks nice for $1700

To disconnect the tors you just needed to unhook the black box under the left side of the tank. Glad to see you got it running. Make sure the basics are covered on the bog.. pilot screws are the same carbs are synced new plugs good gas carb slides in the right carb (you should see and angle at the bottom of the slide, it needs to face the rear on each slide) choke tube in place

I don't believe the uni even has a flange to mount it to the airbox without the cage does it.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...53&hl=what+temp Read this.. it should make you feel better.

If you've done any rejetting it may be running closer to temp

If you have stock carbs make sure you put them together right after taking them off. Slides in correct, carb tube on, no air leaks on the reed cage surface. You know, the basic stuff.

Mine gets up to 190 when I'm riding hard. 160 and 170 isn't bad. If the coolant is staying in the bike you should be fine. You can look into the radiator when the bike is cold to see if there are any air bubbles being created from the head. Another way it to rev it up when it's cold, shut it off and take the cap off... listen for pressure to release. If the bike didn't have time to start warming up there shouldn't be any pressure. Mine did the same thing as loco's at glamis. I'm not sure you have any problem if the coolant is staying in.

lmmfao

Some definitions I found Short for "magnetic particle inspection". A procedure for checking all steel parts -including suspension pieces, connecting rods, cylinder heads, etc. - for cracks and other defects utilizing a solution of metal particles and fluorescent dye and a black light. Surface cracks will appear as red lines. A trade name for the equipment and processes used for detecting cracks and other surface discontinuities in iron or steel. A magnetic field is set up in the part to be inspected. and a powder or paste of magnetic particles is applied. The particles arrange themselves around discontinuities in the metal, revealing defects. A special chemical process, used to check parts for cracks. But I've never heard of it

Congrats !!! As far as the amatuer ... you have to start somewhere with something.

8.5cc

Andy at grand river has built Johns frame, a few engines and now the pipes...lol

Where the hell did he go. I haven't heard from him since glamis pres weekend.

www.stuntlife.com

Here's an alternative http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

Just some things to check on pull cap when cool but running If you see flow you impellar is probably fine If you see airbubbles you could have a head gasket leak. If you hit the gas when cold then pull the cap and it's pressurized it could be the head gasket. If it seems to be flowing without pressure try this... http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

You probably already know this but the ricky stator ones with the advance timing plate is only $125. Maybe you're just trying to get a stocker for cheap. I don't blame you there.

Happy b day pete..... sobe it up...

Whitey, keep up the project for sure... I want to see the progress. About time we got some new projects on the hq. Hey whitey, I was looking at the wiring diagrahm for that fuel injection box you put together. What are you going to do about the tps and 02. Is ther there a certain o2 you have to use with the 2 strokes becasue of the oil ?

Before tearing it apart try new gas... if the gas is old. Had the same issue when I bought my shee. It sat for a long time. Would start with some help when cold but was fine when warm. Put new gas in it and it was fine.

buy a set of each... lol. My razors have lasted a long time but I can't compare them to the titans. I've never had them.

I agree with passion but try this first. Put new plugs in and swap the plug wires. If the other cylinder acts up it could be a plug wire. Take a good look at the plug too. It may be coolant from a head gasket leak. Mines been there done that. I'm not convinced it's a jetting issue if it's only one cylinder and just started happening.

I had a piece of aluminum get shaved off by the dowel when putting the cylinder on once. Just a very tiny piece. Enought to make it leak and make the head not sit flat. Took it apart and cleaned the surface of the cylinder base and the cases and haven't had a problem since.

I just got one too... fixitrod, bansheerage has sent you this email from http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php. hey my name is frank and i own a banshee i need to ask you a question since im in iraq right now i cant see my banshee and i need a picture of the rear axle part of it really a close up of the adjustment peices like the chain puller and that area if you could help out that would be great thanks And if you look in the forum bansheerage here is my response..... I don't have a pic but you can go to www.ronnies.com and get the microphisce. Here's a link to the hub... http://216.37.204.202/yamaha_oem/YamahaATV...pe=13&A=93&B=30 If you need a better pic, let me know