fixitrod

That's the weight I'm talking about.

I have been looking for about an hr for different desert tires... Here's an article I found on kenda klaws... http://www.off-road.com/atv/projects/raptor2001/kenda/ Hope this helps

It is a 6mm .. same as the main jets.

If someone tore the motor apart before you got it they may have not aligned the weight in the tranny properly with the crank. It's number 2 in this diagram http://216.37.204.202/yamaha_oem/YamahaATV...pe=13&A=113&B=5 There is a gear that you can see when you take the clutch side cover off. It has a dot on it. That dot should meet the dot on the crank gear when rotating. If they don't you'll get a terrible vibration.

To me the title is a little confusing. Just fyi.

Changing from 24:1 to 32:1 probably made it to rich. More fuel less oil.

loosen the cable a little. It's just too tight. You should have some give before the carb slides start to raise when pushing the thumb throttle.

The hit won't change, but if you are trying to ride tight trails or something you could try changing the gearing. It's the cheapest. Then go from there if you want to spend the money to change the way the engine responds.

They have a billboard in our city that says "If you feed your kids meat it's child abuse".

Maybe the shocks are to soft for those a-arms and are letting the front end dive to much... if the shocks aren't to tall. If it dives it messes up the alignment. Make sure you have 1/16th to 1/8th inch of tow in .. front of tires closer to together than the back. If you put a level on the rim while you sit on it they should be perpendicular to the floor. Camber is something you probably can't adjust. Make sure those basics above are that way.

Most likely there won't be any debris. The head gasket is metal. If there is just use a wire brush.. brass if you have one or tough nylon. I suggest an oem headgasket , if he has a stock head, compared to aftermarket. The oem has some stuff that will make the headgasket really seal.

Open the radiator cap when it cold. Start it up and see if you see air bubbles coming to the top of the radiator.. if so, your head leak is pressurizing the coolant system. It's happend to mine.

airstrykers have what they call a quad vent. Here's what Keihin has to say about them. Quad Vents: Eliminates post jump bog-down from fuel plugged vent passages PWK Air Strikers: Directs air to main nozzle for improved signal and throttle response.

It's not gonna happen for me for sure. I just found out today I'm on call. maybe next time dang it.

Is that what fixed it or is that just something you came across.

hmmmmm, I really need to get out and ride. That's this weekend isn't it. I dought it. but.. I'll think about it. Are you going.

If the possiblity exists that it's not overheating and the head is not leaking blowing the coolant out it could be you road really hard and made the coolant siphon out. Try moving the bottle up front like this... http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

#2

Less time between rebuilds also.

I know you've had your carbs looked at but do this. Take the air filter off and watch the slides. See if one started to go up when you get the revving action. You might be suprised If that's not it try a buddies cdi. Maybe it's going wacky.

A couple things.... Make sure carb tops are tight. For testing purposes you could unplug the tors box under the gas tank on the left side. It's a little black box. Carb slides need to be in the proper carb. The cylinder shaped slide has a cutout..it needs to face the airbox. Choke tube needs to be between the carbs. The carb bowl with the choke tube in it goes to the carb on the left. Make sure the carbs are synced. Make sure you don't have an airleak. Spray starting fluid or wd-40 around the carbs, read cages, base gaskets and head to see if the rpm changes by burning the spray of your choice. Those are some of the common things. If you have a compression tester, test the cylinders just to see that a ring didn't can't on a port.

The guys on planet sand did some type of measured test. The result was vforce was best for drag racing.

fyi... if you broke one you can just drill a bolt through it and put a locking nut on the end. You can also you that metal plumbing strap stuff if you're in a bind from loosing one.

It could be as simple as an adjustment of the pilot screw. If it's cold out try turning the screws in some. Do a compression test. If you are low... depends on your elevation, then do a rebuild. If one cylinder is more than 15% different from the other you need a rebuild. A good way to tell if the rings are shot is to put a table spoon of 2 stroke oil in each cylinder after you do a compression test. Then do another compression test. If the compression is very different between the two.. time for a rebuild. You alway need to hone with new rings. The hone works like a file to make the new rings take the exact shape of the cylinder. Problem with just changing the rings on an old engine is the piston skirts could be weak. The bore could still be good. Have it measured by a machine shop before ordering your pistons. Then wait until you get the pistons in hand to get the boring done so the machinist can match them. I think PassionRE offers the cheapest top end bore and piston kit prices I've seen from quailty builders. You send him your cylinders and he'll take care of the rest.

Oil lubricates. Fuel cools the top of the piston. To much oil and it will run hotter because you lean the fuel mixture... unless you rejet for it.