fixitrod

Just turned 28 on Christmas Eve.

Compression wise you are fine. You can kick a little harder on one and get different numbers. Checking the compression doesn't tell you the condition of your piston skirts though. If you've never changed your rings, and your compression numbers are that good, your skirts probably aren't worn either. I'd leave it alone. Sounds to be strong.

Excellent post Holyman. People should have this info. It will also help those that do a search.

I'm not sure changing the basket is something that will be easy to describe if you like or don't like. I have the hinson and people ask me if I like it. Well, it works the same but suppose to be stronger. Is it... probably. Does it help performance.... NOPE!!!!! Will it last longer..... It should. They are suppose to help the oil flow too.

Most peoples stock carbs will not work well in water. Other than that, Have fun !!!!!!!

I'd try to straighten it without heat. Once you heat that metal, it will move easy, but it will not be very strong afterwards.

Holy shit guys... Thanks. I haven't been on for a while. Now, I'm being told what scooter I need. Man, I love you guys. I was wondering which was the best. It just brings tears to my eyes..... Thanks A lot guys. I'll be on more after this holiday stuff..... Just warning you !!!

Great advice. The components of course come with a passive crossover that actually pulls the bass from the mid bass subs. It's a very nice passive crossover. The head unit has a built in crossover that allows you to adjust front, rear and sub output seperately. So, even if the alpine crossovers don't work well, the head unit works as an active crossover. I will be installing all my own stuff. 10 guage to the radio and 4 gauge for the amp in case I do get another. I understand what you are saying about the components ... really. I probably will get an amp for the doors later. I listened to 5 sets of components and most of the didn't sound as good as these. I ask him why the more expensive ones didn't sound as good and he said the same thing you are saying...because they don't have an amp on them. I have done a lot of stereos but mostly speaker enclousre design... not setting up mids and highs. I set them up... but never had a head unit that I could change the timing to the speakers to improve imaging and so on. As far as the places not understanding filtering, you are correct. The one place that I keep speaking about on the other hand has a sales guy that did home and car installs for 22yr... which is nice not to be smarter than the guy you are asking questions.... lol. Oh, and the speakers do not fit. I knew that when I got them. I have built adapter/spacer plates from 1/2" mdf. They work perfect. $6 for a 2x2 sheet. Can't beat that. They are ready to go for when the speakers arrive. Thanks for all your advice guys. I have the reciever in hand. I'll get that in tonight along with all the wiring for my amp.

How about a link

I actually heard the 176a's on and off an amp at a shop. They sounded excellent on both. I was really shocked. The reciever requires a 10guage power wire to feed the internal amp. I don't listen to the music way way loud because the kids are usually in the truck with me. I had to take the r series sub back though. The space is to tight under the seat.... depth wise. I went with the mtx 6000. It was the most shallow speaker they had. Anyway, head unit and door speakers should be here on dec 19 or 22. The box should be here on the 22nd too. Well see.

What's up with this boonman?

Like boonman said. If your jetting is correct, your engine should be able to run at any rpm for any period of time. The exception would be a higher rpm than your bearings, pistons, rods, etc... could handle.

So, from what I've been reading on a lot of sites, Everyone is correct. It is a tight tolerance, but should work fine as long as your bearing stay tight and no carbon gets built up. Just listen to your motor. If you want to be on the safer side, get a gasket that's .020 instead of .010. This will take away performance though. If I were you, I'd run it the way it is and have fun. I've seen the tolerance as tight as .020 in some of these motors online but they rebuild them after every race. I think your at a good number for performance. Just keep an eye on it.

some cut and pastes I found The Squish Band or "Quench" is defined as that area between the flat of the piston and the flat of the cylinder head at top dead center (TDC). On the compression stroke, as the piston approaches TDC, the compressed mixture of fuel and air is "squished" to the remaining space of the combustion chamber where the spark plug and valves reside. The "squeezing" of the mixture creates turbulence and is expected to promote a better and more complete combustion. Typical figures for this measurement are in the range of .040" to.045" which allows for rod stretch, carbon build-up and other variables. RB Racing's Harley Big Twin ORCA motors are designed with .035" squish to accelerate the turbulence and to further concentrate the mixture in the remaining combustion chamber while leaving a small margin for carbon build-up. Pure race engines with short duration applications may reduce this figure to .025" as some builders aren't happy till the pistons "kiss" the cylinder head. The sites I found them at http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/squishcalc1.html

Click here for the how too!!

Ngk plugs seem to not foul as easily. I don't know about different models. Here's my theory on ignition though. If there is a good spark, fuel will fire. All this better point, split fire....blah blah blah. If you have any quality plug and it fires there's going to be an explosion. If you don't believe me try this Stand in a room full of gas. Light a lighter and a torch. I bet both rooms blow up the same height considering they have the same amount of fuel and air. Just a theory though.

Ac makes the crappy stuff period. I bought pro pegs and a front bumper. Had to mod both to fit. They don't even know how to package anything without it get scratched up. To hell with ac in my opinion. Anyone want to buy some ac a-arms....lmao Could you imagine if ac made precision peices like a-arms....damn. Your shit would look like is was in 3 wheel motion or something.

Jetting!!!!!!

104 links should work. Take it down to 105 first and line it up. If it's to big, 104.

Cut them off. I did.

One of the testemonials is talking about a ten reed design. These are 6. Honestly, I think you'd be suprised what changing reed thicknesses will do. Oh, and some of these guys may not have been jetted properly in the first place. \ If you give it a try, let us know how you like them.

If you want to keep the stock plate, just take the foam out, silicone the piss out of it and bolt the plate on.

Not doughting you, but did you happen to see the torque numbers. Rpm's can get hp numbers but torque plays a big part in all this.

I knew I was going to here it boonman. We'll see how it goes.

So far this is what I'm doing. 2 sets of these type R 6.5 in all 4 doors (These sound amazing) 1 of these .... type R 10 for just a little low end. This thing is huge. And a box built just for the supercrew For now I'm going to run the 4 doors on the internal amp of the reciever. I've heard from a few shops that it will will most likely be enough. The reciever requires a 10 gauge wire for the internal amp. If it's not enough, I'll get an amp for it later. I will run the sub from a 100w x 100w rms amp.