uman1030

OMF's look fing sweet love the color options. any one have a link to an omf dealer with pricing on their page, looked for a while but can only find pics no pricing. And the manufacturers site doesn't list dealers it has a page but says, Dealer list coming soon when you download the pdf.

rubber tube that is between the two carbs connecting them that frequently gets left off when unassembling them for the first time. and the slides are the metal cylinder attached to the cable make sure the little bb on each will appear in the syncing glass window or the larger cutaway part is facing the air filter

whats your temperature? 25 a little small for pipes and no airbox and so is 240 main your going to be in the 280+ range. heres the needle clip diagram lower the clip (higher number) richer it will be in the 1/4-3/4 throttle range. must be a toomey needle they have 6 positions for better fine tuning. your lean, thats why taking airscrew out gave you a loss in power, cause in is richer, out is leaner.

↑↑↑↑ or bowls reversed also

probably about right Trish karz sells the front hoods painted for 1000 alone https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=717648664912531&set=a.405691382774929.101060.100000022115437&type=1&theater not my style but got to give her props on her artwork. she does sell ones made to order also!

for 1000 bucks you can get a completely custom airbrushed set of fulbores..

you are correct sir, what was i thinking yes it should be less jetting for more elevation due to thinner air. good catch

pilot will be set by how far you have to have your airscrew set at, if the sweet spot on air/fuel screw is 1/2 turn or less then you need a larger pilot*, if its more then 2.5 then you need a smaller pilot. Ive found that aftermarket reeds usually need a fatter pilot to start out with or you end up with an off idle dead spot. i have pretty much the same set up as you described fmf pipes and my airbox lid is removed with a k&n filter but im at 800ft asl and i found that 30/300 was perfect for me and with every 1500ft-2000ft of elevation you need one size SUBTRACTED to main with the same base temperature. EDIT: mixied up effects on elevation change. edited should be accurate now. also meant pilot not airscrew

Personally I'd go 30 on pilot 25 is stock and stay at 320 due to your elevation And having no air box and thats at 70deg maybe more on main depending on how cold it is Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

have you done a compression test to see if it even needs a rebuild?

Do they have a single choke plunger on the shifter side or one on each carb? stock would have a single choke. edit, wait you said you have tors still. they would be stock then 26mm stock carbs no lid i prefer a 30 pilot and run 280-300main jet on a piped stock cylinder/stroke with +4 timing in 70-90 deg weather needle on middle or 3rd clip position im at about 800ft asl. coomon rule of thumb is about 1 jet size per in 1500-2000 elevation. subtract a size while raising elevation, add a size while lowering elevation. in the end its what your bike needs not exactly what some one else uses but its a good start to fine tune it yourself. if you air/fuel screw likes to be at less then 1 turn out to run right you need a larger pilot, if it likes to be more then 2.5 out to run right you need a smaller pilot.

Should I get rid of the intake box and run seperate filters? up to you, alot of us run pod filters for increased airflow and ease of messing with carbs. if you keep the box, remove the lid/snorkle and get something like the pro design proflow adapter plate. the stock plastic one isnt secure once you remove the lid and can let debri into the carb bypassing the filter What spark plugs should I run? NGK BR8ES Should I replace the whole ignition system? If so what brands? stock is just fine if its working and tests as such i wouldn't mess with it other then making sure you have good wires Is it possible to find out if it's been bored out? you would have to take the head off and mic out your bore. What size jets should I be using for pipes and intakes? Little more to it then just that but that does matter. Riding temp? Elevation? stock carbs? pods/airbox w or wo lid What would be the problems for no idle? didnt you say a plug boot wasnt on tight? Dirty pilot circuit/carbs improperly synced carbs, improperly set idle, wrong pilot jet. You should delete your Tors!!

make a photobucket account, host them there and then copy the img link from photobucket to here

br8es

↑↑ ditto ↑↑

Since you didnt complete your assigned homework.. Even after multiple people told you what to do. And none of those things were to ride it or even start it. Your shee has given you a failing grade. only takes minutes to blow it up. when ever you buy some one else's problem, before you attempt to do any kind of riding or tuning. Most importantly, ALWAYS Leakdown test , compression test, and see what jets you have in it. 1 hour of you time can save you hundreds of dollars. Hopefully this is something that can be remedied and you havnt completely ruined it with your failure to listen to the advice you asked for and ws given. let this be a lesson learned on the delicateness of these engines.

↑↑↑ What he said! ↑↑↑ Hummer84 is a great seller, parts i purchased from him couldn't be any better even if they were new in box, and Jeff at F.A.S.T goes with out saying. Neither would steer you wrong for a sale, great guys, you cant go wrong with this

Glad to hear. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

Thumbs up, Millers are great welders. I have one myself and love it. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

ya I wasn't comparing jetting since its a single compared to duals not to mention a diffrent dispacement. just noting I'm familiar with the carb type. And have a bunch of spare jets. And meant the post above was a good starting point. Not what's in my dirt bike. edit: gotch ya serval will probably like less jetting then the cub ill start at about 155 and work down till its right. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

Bought a Durablue axle frpm BHP, he gave me tracking numbers pretty fast and it arrived packed well and in good condition! easy transaction

I see this! Trying to get some money up myself for that motor but it will probably be gone before I can buy it

Jet size is stamped on the side of the jet. Main is the larger hex head jet. pilot is small one inset in the carb with flat head slot. I hear ratios misquoted regularly 50:1 may not even be the actual ratio your using. 50:1 is 2.6 oz oil per gallon, Regardless I would use 32:1 Oil/gas around exhaust port where pipe fits to cylinder is probably just bad o rings or need new springs if pipes loose Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

50:1 is not enough oil. Caster oil? Hope you mean twostroke oil Pull carbs clean them write down jet sizes of main and pilot. I wouldn't ride it or even start it until you fix the mix and verify what jets are in it. Also do a compression test and leak down test. That is if you want to save money on a new engine. Make sure your using a quality 2stroke oil 4oz per gallon would be 32:1. Its gas: oil so 50:1 is very lean on oil Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

Ive read to do this, so i always re-torque head and cylinders after heat cycles/break in, but Ive never had one leak before doing so. Couldn't hurt but may not fix the issue. Did you properly torque everything evenly and the proper sequence following numbers/manual and in at least 2-3 stages, not just go directly to the needed torque on the first pass through? think alot of people go to 22lbs 10-15-20-22 thats what i did anyways when i was doing my top end cause i didnt have a manual so i looked online for it and thats what i found in several posts.