sheerox

I’m going to rewind my stator myself...hopefully. I don’t plan on using anything that would require the lighting coil (winding) so would leaving it out cause any problems? I was thinking maybes the layout of stator lobes the magnet wire gets wrapped around wound change because of polarity issues or something. Guess it’ll be trial and error. I’m not asking for anybody’s help I’m just saying: that’s what I’m gonna do.

I need a CDI Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or just the radiator shroud and gas tank cover. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much for the orange plastics in the pic? (Think those are called full bores or lakers perhaps?) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We can't see ur brake pads man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What part is the Hiper? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ad says "assorted Wiseco pistons" any 795 pistons? There're for 115 longrod crank (duh). My current bore is 65.25 and I believe the 795's diameter increase in increments of .50: 64.00, 64.50, etc.) So I would need 65.50. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nvm dumb question... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much for the cylinders? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those are 65.50. I can tell by lookin. Yes, I'm that damn good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Double dang! Thanks for such a detailed explanation. I've had my shee for about 8 months or so. Ive only ever ran it on the blacktop roads near my house so today I finally took it to an atv park (Sandhill ATV south MS) which is 300+/- acres of sandhills (i guess yall call 'em dunes out west, idk.) Anyways, on the blacktop it pulls fine throughout the gears. I guess the load the uphill sand puts on it changes all that. In first gear it would rip out the hole then, after shifting into second, it would bog momentarily (felt like lack of power or maybe too rich on the pilot) but as soon as it got a few R's up it would rip on through the powerband in 2nd np. But, 3rd wouldnt do shit; It would just bog as and drop off from there. Im pretty sure I wasnt shifting from 2nd to 3rd to soon. When i got to the atv park (while it still had turf tires on it) I took it out on some relatively flat sandy areas and went through the gears and throttle (1/4 to 3/4 to WOT etc. etc.) It bogged some out the hole so I turned the pilot screw down a half a turn, fixed that problem. The turf tires are 20 inch and sand tires i have are 21inch geckos, maybe that was part of it? Guess ill also get a 13 tooth sprocket to bring with me next and try that.

Double dang! Thanks for such a detailed explanation. I've had my shee for about 8 months or so. Ive only ever ran it on the blacktop roads near my house so today I finally took it to an atv park (Sandhill ATV south MS) which is 300+/- acres of sandhills (i guess yall call 'em dunes out west, idk.) Anyways, on the blacktop it pulls fine throughout the gears. I guess the load the uphill sand puts on it changes all that. In first gear it would rip out the hole then, after shifting into second, it would bog momentarily (felt like lack of power or maybe too rich on the pilot) but as soon as it got a few R's up it would rip on through the powerband in 2nd np. But, 3rd wouldnt do shit; It would just bog as and drop off from there. Im pretty sure I wasnt shifting from 2nd to 3rd to soon. When i got to the atv park (while it still had turf tires on it) I took it out on some relatively flat sandy areas and went through the gears and throttle (1/4 to 3/4 to WOT etc. etc.) It bogged some out the hole so I turned the pilot screw down a half a turn, fixed that problem. The turf tires are 20 inch and sand tires i have are 21inch geckos, maybe that was part of it? Guess ill also get a 13 tooth sprocket to bring with me next and try that.

So what's the difference between a duneable port job and a MX port job? I'm guessing one is for more low to mid range and one is for more mid to top? And, while we're on the subject, could someone explain the other types of port jobs like drag and trail?

stil got the 6 pack rack and front bumpr?

Yea i hope it can be done that way, gonna bring em to a shop when i get off work.

I put a 115 crank in my banshee and after much research realized it would be best to get some cylinders ported specifically for a 115 rod stroker. I have, for trade: my cylinders which are bored .020 and trail ported, the stock crank in good condition, stock carbs with caps and cables (and a couple main jets and pilots), stock head in good condition. What I need: A set of unported stock cylinders (stock bore or .020 over) or, preferably, something ready for a 115 crank with the correct bore size. Text me at 228-627-6298 for pics. Ill try to get this photo bucket working so i can post the pics here, thx.

I had a very similar problem. Its not gettin enough gas at low speeds; or about the first 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. How many turns out is the air/fuel screw? Turning it out too far will lean your air/fuel mixture causing the bike stall (due to lack off fuel) out the hole and up through about the 1st 1/4 of the throttle.

The original owner had this port job done. I was wondering if any of you guys could maybe classify it from looking at pictures? I can send better pictures if needed. I am the third owner and the middleman didn't know much of anything except it ran like crap.First thing i did, when i bought it, was take it to a quad racing/machine shop. The machinists said it was egged a little so he went ahead and bored it .20 over from stock which would be 64.50 correct? The labels on the cast pistons(pro-x) he ordered say 64.25 and the 795's Wiseco's (forged i believe) i just got in the mail for my 115 crank are 64.50( i never checked the pro-x piston labels to make sure after he told me he bored it .20 over). He mentioned that it had port work done to it, but no specifics and at the time i was uneducated and unaware of the different types of port-jobs (trail, dune, etc) or i would've ask more questions. This same machinists also sold me a Cool-head with 18cc domes that had my quad running around 155 compression without mentioning the detonation thingy octane stuff. Guess that was beginners luck.(nothing happened) I would ask his opinion but I'd rather ask the forum till i get a few recommendations to a local machine shop.I don't really want to ship anything off if i can get it done locally. I have 2 more questions for any readers who are kind enough to donate me more time: Question1. I bought the stroker-cut domes but will I still have to get the ports corrected or will the aforementioned port job (in the pictures also) suffice? Question 2: Will the 64.50- (795 longrod specific piston) Wiseco's work in cylinders that previously had 64.25 cast pistons? I read that forged piston have more clearance.

Is it a pair? Do you still have them?

I need a pair of wiseco 64.50 795's for da Santa Claus price!

i want the tie rods.

Lookin for a 115 longrod crank, 64.50 pistons, cut domes for 4 mill longrod. All or individual.

Do you still have the carb setup?