satts

Pm sent:-)

Interested in same^ any pics of head?

Yeah great seller here for sure!!!

Very interested in cover ,can you pm me a pic?

Stick with OEM .there's heaps on eBay .

Damn!!!!

Use the eccentric screw in middle of pressure plate to line up the arrows on the actuator arm and top case ,inspect your pushrods and ball when you have pressure plate off grease em up a bit too,

Also ,if I pull my clutch inn ,my bike will barely roll when cold however after 5mins riding once she's warm it will push just fine,let it warm up and see how you go

Good seller,,, used cases in much much worse condition without troubles, no problem with those cases,glws

Tors deleted?

Yup I agree with what dirtydownunder said don't use the ez spring . With all the tranny mods it will shift far too easy , I changed mine back to stock ,was using a mull star with the ez spring and detent bearing and only had to hit bumps hard enough and it would shift itself

I will re try a 27.5 and report back .i have 2 motors same mods and same symptoms .bike starts first kick everytime .just this shitty bog. I know most people are oposite there bike wont run without choke .mine wont run or start with it

I will re try a 27.5 and report back .i have 2 motors same mods and same symptoms .

I'm in Newcastle , Dirty ,it's 40 Celsius today

It getting hot here Tricked I'm in oz,lol, Up over 100 here today

When it idles ,it's fine but if I hit throttle it bogs then revs out fine BUT if I pull choke out it dies as if I'm flooding it?

Choke tube is on tight, slides in right way ,have tried between 1/2 a turn out to 2.5 turns on the screws

I tried 310 s but plugs where wet ,,mr Tabor

Float height has been set too

Plugs are dark nearly black and seemed to run the same with 27.5 pilot, no air leaks either

I have played with idle screws from 1/4 turn out to 2.5 turns out

Hi everyone ,I have a problem with my shee, won't start or run at all with the choke ON ,also have a bog right off idle clears up right away tho.smokes a little too even when hot , only mods are fmf pipes ,billet intake,and k&n pods no air box .im at sea level temp ranges from 70/90 degrees, jetting atm is 25 pilot 290 mains middle clip needle 35/1 ,castor 927, thank for any help given

Not knocking anyone at all its a goid price .jus thought the idea of a subframe was to lighten the frame ? Now where talking about putting steel rods in.if thats the strongest way ,someone should tell the builders od the subs to make em that way?

Get a clymer manual and do the work youself there's abig write up on here, find it if you google bansheehq bottom end assembly ,step by step with photos , just get your cylinders bored to next available bore and new Pistons ,as with crank take it to a different shop and have em check if it's still within specs ,if it is have em weld it ,if not buy a welded hot rods one,

Good luck to whoever buys that sub , where you have marked to cut it will be hard for anyone to get a strong weld on it,