Stonytony

Send your jugs to him too and have him measure them out and he can tell you everything you need. He has the worlds fastest 0-400cc quad Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get a crank from rdz they are 500 bucks but they have true tz American made bearing on them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep that's what I found. The pistons are wsm 68mm. Those pistons are used with stock stroke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My advise is sense it starts but dies out when you give it throttle it's from the reeds to the air filters and anything in between. 30 pilots 440 mains to start with needle clip in the middle air screw 2 turns out. IMO those carbs are too small. Soak the carbs in some gas to clean them for a day/overnight Check the timing plate and pickup for damage and for out of tolerance for the pickup. Also check the timing key don't go past +4 unless you know what your doin. If it was a leak down issue it should rev up and take a long time to drop down to idle Compression should be 130-140 could be more due to porting and domes. Less just makes a hard start once it's warmed up. A bad stator will only show its issue under load. Revving it is not under load. Check it with an ohm meter. Your clymer book has the specs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Vitos fat bastard small bore small flange inframe pipes. Silencer has a dent from getting rear ended, chrome on headers is coming off. 200+ the ride. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would those work on 68mm bore jugs?

I'm lookin for rdz shearer or cpi oof/sb pipes for stock jugs. Let me know what ya got.

This is what I'm working with http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/Tony_Olmstead/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb5306317.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

So could already drag ported jugs be used with a 4 mil if I send them to rdz to have the ports corrected for the stroke?

Just thought again. Use the blaster piston and it's 2mm smaller from wrist pin to the top of the piston. Then only have to lower the ports by 2mm with the 2mm plate.

Just thought I would have to lower them by 4mm?

Well I'm in a bind here. I got a set of jugs 68mm bore with porting for stock stroke. I want to upgrade to a 4mil. If I use the 2mil plate to get the top of the ports right. I would then lower the bottoms of all the ports by 2mm? Looking at this theory alone would that work. I know the plate corrects the tops of ports timing but then piston is goin 2mm lower then the bottoms of the transfer ports. So lowering those by 2mm would be in theory the same as fresh jugs ported 2mm up and 2mm down. Then of course porting for sand/drag.

Also looking for shear sb or rdz sb out frame pipes with just stingers

Got a question. I'm wanting to build a 4mil 115long rod and I got a set of trinity stage 4 jugs. Question is if I use the 68mm bore blaster pistons do the jugs have to be changed on the port timing? I may be wrong but blaster pistons have the wrist pin hole 2mm higher so you don't have to use a spacer plate or change port timing? Some one explain this for me

First these machines as designed were made to run premium 93 octane at stock 110 psi compression. When compression is raised more heat is generated so a colder burning fuel must be used. 19cc domes are a high octane fuel dome due to its shape and paired along side increased compression 110 octane or higher is a must. Sheerider11 you must burn up alot of pistons.

Jugs are good. I checked end gap on rebuild last week and its .012 with feeler gage it's tight but the .013 won't fit. If it gets beyond .015 that's out of spec according to the piston manufacture .010-.015 is tolerance

You change your port timing by doin a port job and you loose compression. Then you have to get that compression back. To achieve that you can mill a head (waste of time IMO because the dome is wrong) or aftermarket with changeable domes so you get the correct compression. That's why you add an aftermarket head. Stock port timing with stock head 110-115psi per cylinder. Stock port timing aftermarket head and now 130 psi 1-2hp increase but you gotta run 93 octane or even safer 110 because you'll burn hotter and you'll need a fuel that burns colder to offset the change.

Hi. My question is weather or not if I should up the fuels octane ive been told run 113 oxygenated. I run 110 now. Machine specs are Dune/drag port 65.5mm bore stock stroke Vito's fat bastard in-frame pipes 4+ timing Coolhead 19cc domes 135psi 30 pilot 320 main vitos needles mid clip stock carbs Vforce2 reeds and reed spacers

An aftermarket head gives you 1 or 2 hp. The point of a head with changeable domes is to gain compression back after changing port timing.

Idk about 91. I have 4+ timing dune/drag port coolhead 19cc domes 140 psi and have to run 110 otherwise I get detonation because the fuel won't burn properly.

The idle screw is only on the tors if you stock carbs. To achive idle on a banshee with tors removed you have to adjust your cable to pull the slides up. 30 pilot and 290 mains air screw 1.5 turns out with t5s is just right on my friends 4+ timing cool head 19cc 140 psi 110 octane only.

The pods will lean you out some. Go bigger on the mains. Your pilots and needles should be fine. Cool head 22 cc dome and advanced timing won't affect jetting but pump gas may not be good due to higher heat from timing and compression. 135psi with 4+ key is what I have and I only use 110 octane. 97 banshee Elevation 400 ft Dune/drag port Coolhead 19cc 135 psi 4+ timing Vforce2 reeds Vito's fat bastard inframe pipes 320 mains Vito's needles middle clip 30 pilots 1.75 turns air screw

Please copy and paste this along with your answers in your reply, thanks. 1) Vitos fat bastard inframes 2) K&n 3) Stock air box with no lid 4) 400ft perty much sea level 5) no.30 pilots 6) 320 mains 7) 65-80 degrees f 8) Drag/dune port job 9) Stock carbs 10) Stock carbs

I had a similar problem. Took till 3 to clean out. I had a bad pulling problem in 6. I thought gearing so I went 13:42. I still have a bit of heavy smoke till it cleans out or gets really hot. I never thought of the slides being backwards till I pulled em out and bam ass backwards. Put them in correctly and did a plug chop and was way lean, as before it seemed way rich at low rpm but good at wot. I jumped my main to 310 and pilot at 27 needle in middle position and its just as good as when I got it (ive added parts and porting so I didn't know jus the slides backwards was holding me back because I gained power even tho I had put the carbs together wrong.) also added air box had to take snorkel off and add a new hole in the lid 3inch.

Well I got it guys. I running 13:40 and it was a top end fuel issue. I just kept goin bigger main jet and 2 sizes bigger pilot one size bigger needle jet and lifted to needle one up and bam! One hell of a screaming machine. Only thing my plugs say im too rich but its the only way it will perform correct. I'm running 76 mph at 500ft dirt/grass drag race last Sunday. Placed 2nd. A 421 cheata cub bearly won. Half a quad. I won the grudge match for cash and walked away lol. Thx again for things to try