Tony Doukas Racing

High polish stainless bolt kit for Banshee. This kit includes all of the bolts for the entire ATV. 540 pieces fenders, steering, engine, head & cylinders, wheels, calipers, etc. $ 115.00 + shipping. PM me for shipping cost to you zipcode.

+ 1 on Eastcoast narrow front rims. I just bought a set.

Depending on the year the base gaskets vary in thickness and material. .020" to .030" some coated metal & some fiber.

There are 2 different versions. 1 for modified / ported engines and a different one for stock and slightly modified motors.

Try the TDR reeds on EBAY. $30.00 or $40.00 carbon.

Definitely have to drill it out. I also made an aluminum spacer and use 2 flywheel nuts.

Hey Cam, WSM only makes 4 styles of forged banshee pistons. 64 to 66.5 with the 3rd boost hole. std & long rod & big bore 68 to 70.5mm std & long rod. No H2 pistons. I can have custom pistons made. 8 weeks turnaround. I am having some more different ones made right now for all the different T-Rex piston replacements. Next is a custom one for Cub cylinders and then Super Cub pistons.

The Toyota stuff is one of the best that I have found. It is called seal packing 103 FIPG I carry it in stock. As for the spooge. A little acetone or laquer thinner on a rag will clear it off before it dries.

They are lighter and have larger window areas for increased flow and HP.

WSM makes both cast and forged. The Platinium series is cast from Taiwan. Good for stock motors. I submitted the design for the forged ones years ago to WSM who had them made by Wossner in Germany and imports them. They are not the same as the standard Wossner banshee piston. They are custom for WSM. Lighter than Wiseco, NOS2 (teflon) coated. Rings, clips, & pin will interchange with wiseco as well. Those that have broken them are running too much piston to cylinder wall clearance. Every broken one that I have inspected I measured the bore and piston and found that clearance has been the issue. Overall a great piston for recreation & full modified motors.

American racer available make no tires in 9" rim size

Also a lot of sponsors will not advertise specials as to price stipulations from the suppliers. Always best to call or in your case e-mail them. There are so many varibles to truely offer a package as everyone needs or wants different components . put together a complete list and e-mail your sponsor of preference to see what they quote.

Tyler is correct. I always ask " How FAST can you afford to go" Price does dictate what level of kit that would fit your budget. Also pick a company and buy every thing he suggests as buying a lot of different items from different engine builders will cost more money and be slower as well. once an engine is built the second and 3rd phase comes into play. tuning is highly critical as well as chassis setup.

Camatv, I have the wider powervalves in stock. I will be setting up a bunch of T-Rex cylinders this winter. The major changes will be using readily available pistons instead of the propriatary ones that T-Rex had before.

I use cartridge rolls at the area close to the Nikisil and at the Nikisil edge. Also a proper radius is needed to insure that the ring doese not catch the plating. we have about 98% no issue rate. The few that canme back had haet issues and that is what caused the plating to fail at the port edge. You can use the double cut anywhere back away from the bore edge.

I am only aware of 1 style of V Force 3 replacement petal

We have them for Delta 2, Delta 3 and Delta 4 reed cages. As well as the stock cages. Turbo & Nitrous reeds are also available.

We sell them for $50.00 per side. I also have a set of TDR carbon replacements for $80.00 for both sides. as well as good prices on the cages themselves.

Thanks gartman4310: Also I am now a sponsor on the forum.

Bbeecrft: I generaly ask my customers this question. How fast can you afford to go. That dictates what level you want to start at. I do agree that a 4mill cub is a great starting point to learn all about tuning, engines & components, chassis setup as all of the mentioned have a huge imput on the end result. Most beginers tend to want a bigger motor and suffer continious engine failures or slow et's due to lack of knowledge. My personal pick to start building new chassis setup is a 4mill cub the step up to a 10mm supercub or something similar, Then a DM or larger. Work your way up the ladder.