MyNameIsMud

Good deal and good luck bro!

THe oils specific to motorcycles. This is what i run http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx

Acetone takes it right off.

I love amsoil and run it in all my vehicles do you have pics of the decals you have availible?Id like to get some. Not for posing just because i like their product its the best!

I had a coolant leak not long ago luckily it wasnt getting into the cylinders but it was wicking up the threads on a few studs. What i did was after checking the heads plain for any warpage bought an oem gasket and used the copper spray gasket adhesive.I put 4-5 coats on it and reinstalled per the torque specs and its been good since. The k&s gasket i had before just wasnt cutting it.

I know theres no pump thats why i said how would you pump it?I figured some sort of electric pump but thinking it over its too much effort for little to no gains to convert it all over. I have an off brand ebay 40% bigger radiator and i run amsoil full synthetic 10w30 in the gear box. According to my trail tech i on average in 90+ temps run no higher than 185 on the trails and when cruising 165-175. I should have gave it more thought.

I just figured with more capacity and a way to cool it down that may add life to the clutch and even help the engine its self run cooler but if its not going to make any difference its pointless.

LOL i know where that comes from. Sorry i should have said trans cooler. Thats what i meant.

I was working on a friends 400ex and it has an engine oil cooler and i wondered if theres a way to do something similar on a banshee?Or if it was even worth it?Would it even help?How would you pump the oil?

The pistons are clearanced when you put the final hone and cross hatch on the cylinder. Thats why most builders want you to have the pistons so they can FIT them when over bored and what not.

AMSOIL's good stuff id trust them over lucas. Rural king even carries amsoil now and its pretty cheap at 9-10 a qt.

Maybe some water wetter or purple ice additive?

Took me about 2hrs to put mine in but i used wire loom and made it pretty. I would use the hose for the water temp that was the whole reason i bought one.

I asked about these too not long ago. a buddy bought a ltz400 and had boxes of extra stuff and had one of these in it and he gave it to me. DK if the guy meant to put it in but he had 3 bad ass banshees. This ones new in the box and is made by procomp i plugged it in and it ran so idk but i kept it as a spare. I wonder if the advanced settings work? Mine has 0-9 with a max advance of +5 with all different rpm ranges.

Split the cases and then lots of PICS!!!!!!!!

Isnt that the problematic rod numbers in another post? And correct me if im wrong but isnt 68mm the max a stock sleeve can be bored without replancing the sleeve? You may wanna look into some good used jubs or a couple new sleeves.Thats what i have in mine csot was pretty descent and i then i stuffed 64mm wisecos back in. Kind of odd theyd stick in two different sized pistons?I bet tuning was a bitch.lol

Thats where i too ran mine after searching here ive yet to see a drop of coolant after the jetting recommendations i also got here. Thanks guys!!!

Id try to get the carbs as close as you possibly can. If ones idling higher i could definately see that happening.

A good FLUKE meter shouldnt be lying.Ive in a pinch even used an el cheapo no name i wonder if you had the settings correct? With the problem being intermittent id say possibly a ground i fixed one that had a broken ground near the cdi and would spark every once in a while but very weak like you described. id set the gap on the pick up at .015 and leave it alone thats where mine is. As for 330 mains you gotta be rich i run T5's,k&n in stock air box,chariot reeds,+3 timing and im at 300 mains in the stock carbs,dyno jet needles mid clips,and 27.5 pilots,a/f screw @ 1 3/4 and it runs like a raped ape from idle to WOT.

I tried the walmart lights on mine since i didnt have any at all.I got the idea here and its pretty bright.I plan to run them until i can afford mattscss's lights.

Look into RB DESIGNS they specialize in carb mods a bunch of guys i know have their carbs done by them and they do an awesome job http://rb-designs.com/

It takes air,fuel,compression,and an ignition source for any engine to run.Sounds as though you have compression,you obviously have air,you know you have spark are you getting fuel? Are your plugs wet?Did they foul?What are your mods and supporting jetting specs? You could have a large vacuum leak around the base of the jugs have you performed a leak down test?Theres a write up (just search the forum is what i did) on how to build and perform the leak test which is a definate must for any 2 stroke owner/builder. If you had a bad ground it wouldnt get ignition.I think with what youve said and explained you have a fuel issue.

Yea it may be necessary to run a tap down the hub where that bolt goes.I did on mine and then used red thread locker.It should most definately not be sticking up any farther than the others around it. If you cant make that work you may give epoxying the loose magnet they send to the rotor somewhere.

I did initially when i installed mine but i changed the depth and it works great. You got the sensor lead thats got the two jam nuts on it and its threaded just change the amount that sticks out took me a couple tries to line it up perfectly.

Do you run a stock radiator? My shees rad had a hole in it when i got it so i immediately repaced it with an ebay 40% bigger and according to my trail tech vapor im never any higher than 185'ish.But you probably have more mods and make more power which makes more heat. Im curious about the box though can you post some more pics of what it looks like and the entire setup? Not a fan of the pvc tube on the rear but the box idea sounds neat.How does the fan idea work with your box?I agree if this is soundand solid 100 bucks sounds good even if i dont need it now i will later.