slothman
-
Posts
157 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by slothman
-
-
Mixing xylene or toluene with gas falls into the hillbilly homebrew catagory. Possible unpredictable results and damage to your motor. Check your compression to determine your octane needs. Then go with straight 93, 50/50 of 93 and race gas, or straight race gas.
People have been using Xylene for years and years. It has the same properties as regular conventional gasoline. I have NEVER heard of xylene causing damage to an engine. I have used it myself, without any problems for years. Same goes for many other drag racers.
-
yep 64.5 bore with Wiseco Prolites
-
Did you recently change the tranny fluid? Some tranny fluids like fully synthetic might cause problems with the clutch or shifting.
It's a good idea to check the fluid anyway
-
Get some pipes as well. Since you have to rejet for the new air filter, you might as well get pipes too. There are great deals on this forum for used pipes, or you can look on ebay. Trust me, it's worth the money just for the sound ! And you will gain some noticeable HP!
-
People say that RM stator is a POS, so toss it in the garbage and get a OEM one from Yamaha.
Next, you need to look at how much compression you are running, what fuel you are using, and what plug. The BR8ES plug might not be "cold enough" if you are running a high compression motor with low octane gas. If it's detonation you can look at the current plugs and tell instantly if that is the problem.
-
current pix or GTFO ! lol
-
what i was thinking of was mixing 91-93 octane with 110 race fuel at a 50/50 ratio bring it down to around 100 octane range.... plus i REALLY like the smell of race gas..lol
you can use 93 octane and 10% Xylene, which will bump it up a few points. It's cheaper than race gas. I used to use it in my supercharged mustang.
-
I think the HP series is more or less for drag racing and high power output engines.
For regular trail riding and occasional drag, you would be fine with the usual Pro-lites. They are both forged pistons, and you can't go wrong with either choice
-
-
I think I do have a air leak cause I tried the 320 today and the plugs are still coming out white. Is there any where I can get the tool to do a leak down test
leak down tester: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116165
-
It was the piston it was shattered.
Time for 4 mil
-
once again here i am asking another question
lol... bike fires right up will not idle on it's own and takes a second to rev...yesterday lost spark to right cylinder then to both 
now all i did was verify the circuit on the orange coil wire it was good so i pluged it back in and it ran but slow rev and kinda a bogging sound...weak spark i'm guessing cause the plugs are wet occasionaly it will run perfect and rap up at a touch of the throtle then back to slow rev??? Weak spark could be from bad spark plug caps. Failing CDI could cause that...also are you sure the coil is good ?
Have you inspected the jets and all other carb parts ?
-
Geico FTW! Damn I need to insure my shit!
me too
-
the chain came off and cracked the case.
That sux did the chain have a clip on ?
-
So I'm getting parts ready to build a 4mil motor. I've dealt with Jeff at FAST a little bit so far and liked the service so I'll be sending it there. The reason I'm trying to get as much info on here first is because I know he's busy as hell and I don't want to bother him until I'm ready to send him my motor.
I will be doing mostly trail riding but maybe play on the ice some in the winter. Since I'm doing my first build, I want to do it right so I'm not wanting more in the future. I bought a used case and jugs so I can still have a motor while my work is being done (and my motor had some ugly chain whack). I'm more concerned about doing this the right way than I am about how much I spend. Any thoughts or input would be greatly appreciated.
I currently have:
-VF2 Reeds
-Stock case and jugs.
-Stock Trans
So I know I'm going to need alot of parts. I also want all bearings and seals replaced so I essentially have a completely new motor. I just need a rough idea of the budget so I know how much $ I need to save before calling Jeff.
- 4mil Crank ($435)
-Pistons ($175)
-Gaskets($35)
-Seals($45)
-Timing Plate ($45)
-Head ($235)
-Trail Porting ($250)
-Case Porting ($100)
-Build($250)
Total ($1570)
So what all did I miss? I'll be watching the for sale thread on here for carbs and pipe. I currently have a 2-1 w/ PWK 38 and FMF Fatties (neither of which will be used on the new build)
Two things I've learned with Banshee's:
1) Always expect shit to go wrong
2) Always expect to pay more than your planned budget
That being said, add another 500-600 to your build, and that will be the true cost lol.
-
-
I think we might be best friends with benefits, kids and play toys.
-
WTF!?.......
lmfao
-
def get the +4 on the timing. if your lid is not off your air box take it off. then run it till it needs a new top end. keep saving $ till the time comes. no need to waste a good top end. only reason i went 4 mil so quickly was because i had to split the cases to fix a tranny problem
Best advice right here.
-
send nudez or the baby kitten gets it !
-
-
I think my wife is hot. Especially that she likes the same stuff i do, atv's, trucks, diesels, muddin, you name it. Stuffs more expensive though, whatever I have she gets one too...lol
Nice lookin wifey u got ! I think it's super hot when chicks know how to ride .....in more ways than one haha
-
holy carnage, batman ! time for a big bore !
-
Dont waste your time on rebuid kits for that kicker. I tried those a bunch of times, with no luck. well they would work for a ride or two. Ended up just buying a whole new kick lever boss. No more issues. Just my OP.
well, I bought some 50 cent springs from Ace hardware and I already had the O-ring, so I'm going to give it a shot lol
When Do I Know If My Banshee Is Gonna Overheat?
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted