ClayAiken

This is what i did, Took the main plastic cover off, Took the smaller metal cover off. I made sure that there were no broken fins what what i could see from the outside, Next i tried to spin the impeller by hand to check to see if my gear was stripped out. After that make sure theres no corrosion or buildup and throw it back together. Thats how i checked mine without taking my clutch cover off.

Made my first purchase on Bansheehq from him. Bought a AC Racing Bumper it was exactly as described and he actually sent the bumper out before i even paid him. Really good guy would definitely do business with him again Thanks dude

That truck is huge.

No i havent, Will definitely check that.

Alright so my seat must be dirty because my carbs leak out of the bottom overflows and I've tapped the carbs many times and bounced the bike around a lot so it wouldn't be a stuck float. I haven't got in there yet but I'm figuring that my seat is dirty so the point is where do i buy a needle and seat or do i buy a whole carb rebuild kit? Its only my right carb that leaks but if the price isn't insane I'm going to do both carbs while I'm there and give them a good clean. So where can i get a needle and seat from?

Some people might be interested but i can't stand the stock style and would only go roundhouse. Some people might have there reasons however. Just my .02$

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/search?term=Keihin+Jets Wasnt sure which ones you need.

Or people could build their own shit and problem solved.

Domes are what controls your compression besides squish. So stock is 24cc (i think) and by lowering the dome number it raises compression. For example i have 21cc's and i am supposed to be around 156 on a fresh rebuild. The biggest part of the cool head and what makes them desirable is the ability to change out the domes. On stock heads the only way to bump up compression is to get the stock head milled and with the cool head you can change the domes and control compression yourself. So yes you can get more power from changing to a cool head because you can change compression. You do not need to change the domes you can leave it at the stock compression numbers. As far as i know changing to a cool head is fairly easy just use a little bit of vasline or grease to keep the o rings in the correct place while changing. However if you do not plan on changing the compression numbers my opinion would be to keep your stock head.

Think when you kicked it you bent one of those rods? I saw a pic of someone that bent a wang crank rod from back pressure on a kick.

Nobodys gonna get banned.

See what the harley guys use. Call the local dealer and see what they recommend.

I got the chain adjusters that go on the swing arm to tighten the chain from him. Pictured showed these nice polished parts. Got them in the mail and they were chewed up on the bottom and alot of paint was missing from the sides. Granted i wasn't all that worried about it, it wasn't what the pictured showed.

And if it were just a yz 350 it would make it a bike.

Im pretty sure a banshee is a YFZ 350.

That must of been one hell of a burnout

He go teh ban hamma. Troll.

Looking for lowend power i have stock gearing and lowend is fine. I run primary drive chain and sprockets. No complaints.

Not interested but just curious i saw your bike on craigslist did you decide to part out instead?

BANANA PHONE

Holy shit that thing is Dirrtttyyyyy. Good Shit.

Paul Turner Mids aren't a bad woods pipe either. My non ported turd with stock carbs still has good bottom end.

I've asked the same question a few times. The best one i have come up without dropping a ton of cash is this one. Oversized rad and silicone hoses. http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-YFZ350-Full-aluminum-radiator-and-silicone-hose-/110714453254?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c7187d06