HOMERTHECLOWN

I am still in the middle of the project, as with anything the project grows. I decided to re-wire the entire bike to get rid of all the usless hacked up wiring, in addition, new off road lights, trail tech on/off switch, new cdi box,and new top end. As far as the wiring, another member posted a wiring Q & A link that had great info plus a simple wiring diagram that eliminates most of the excessive wiring a modded banshee no longer needs. I think it was under another of my posts :lights dont work: you can search for that, I will also look for the link. As far as the rectifier from trail tech, I assume it will be pretty straight foward, and they do have tech support, when I get it and install it, i will take pics and post the finished wiring.

Woodruff key was in good shape and where it should be. Thanks Rick

Good luck with your 22 year old piece of crap.....And thank you for your service. Rick

I got to drive a new Polaris 900 RZR XP talk about fun, I have been thinking about replacing this with one...

Castor 927 40 to 1 Race Gas.

I agree. I will tear into it. I will keep you all posted. Okay, prepare yourselves, I have a confession to make, be gentle please......... If you will, imagine a room full of guys, drinking stale coffee, most of them either lurk here or log in anonymously. and I stand up and say.... Hi, my name is Rick, and my bike has a boost bottle...I did not put it there, honest, it was the guy who had it before me. I really didn't know what it was, i swear, I was gonna take it off... My guess is that 12 years ago when the bike was built someone thought it was a good idea, kinda like a mullet. What goes there, the stock balance tube (I assume that is what it is) or different intakes? Thanks for the advise. Rick

UPDATE..... Checked compression, cold only, cause I could not warm it up. 100psi right and 125psi left. seems low for the motor build, but I am pretty sure that is not the problem but now I will pull the top end and send it to a sponsor, probably Kevin because He is close and folks speak highly of him. Pulled carbs, 35mm Kehins, bowls were fulll, free of oil, and jets were clear, jet size 25 and 155. Pulled stator, all looked okay, but I am installing a rewound unit fith the ground floated, to charge the battery. Question, How do you tell what the timing is set at with an adjustable plate, I see all the different settings, but do not see a reference point (timing mark) I marked the original position, but cant tell where it is set at. Removed the wiring harness, and will re-wire only whats necessary. More to come.. Rick

Bansheesandrider, I followed the instructions and removed the epoxy but could not see any wire to solder to. upon close inspection, the stator may have had it done already. if you look at the pics, you will see the red windings, and there are yellow wires attached directly to the windings, 1 at each end. Is that what i am after? Also, I am hopping the red windings indicate a rewound stator for higher output. Thanks for your input. Rick

Parking brake and all components are all gone, I should have some idea by this afternoon, I will post findings, Thanks for the input. Rick

First time out with the new ride. Friday night, started first kick, idled for 10 minutes until warm, this bike does not load up, runs great. Took it down the the flats west side of Gecko road, pad 5 and made a few passes. Well I have to say, Scary fast on the top, I was pretty impressed to say the least. (I know there are guys here that have stuff 3 times as fast, and would say, its okay, could be faster) I was happy with it and could not wait to feel it on the hill. The next morning, adjusted the shifter, was not happy with the feel or the shifting for that matter, (Im 6' 260 pounds fat, bad knees, size 12 boot, I am sure thats the problem) started again, warmed up, same drill, only this time my buddy tagged along with his yzf 450, all bolt ons, but runs real strong. Now, we probably raced a dozen times and I knew by feel I had a much faster bike, and so did he, but the problem was hooking up, I knew there was a lot of work to be done there, getting the launch down, wanted to try 2nd gear start, seating position ect. I was always 3-6 bike lengths back hitting third and the top end pull was amazing, going into 5th i was going by him, or at least with him. Here was the next problem, due to our schedules, I could never get with Matt to set up the Marvin Shaws for me, so, I guessed, and was a little unsure what would happen WFO in 6th, so I would shut it down. All of that was okay and I knew with a little seat time I would get the power down. Then it happened, a kick in the nuts...... The bike sat for 10-15 minutes and on restart, again first or second kick, right to idle, no worries, ran great, take off, putt down a ways, waiting for the rest of the group, and then.....on acceleration, it was like you hit the off button, no sputter, no run bad, just whaap whaap whaap, like air passing into a non firing cylinder. until the rotating mass came to a stop. Kicked it over, started right away, idled great, reved a few times, thought all was well, and it happened again, and again, and again, I could idle or as long as I wanted, but after a few revs, same thing. Plugs were new, looked good upon inspection, but looked wet, not fouled, just wet. Changed plugs, BR8ES, same results. Changed coil, same results. Its to a point now, where it will die when just idling. The camp consensus is fuel or carb issue. (I run straight 110 VP and mix 40 to 1 Caster 927 ) I think its electrical or ignition, I will dive into it this weekend and keep you guys posted. One thing I was told by a friend that was there, on his 86 250r 3 wheeler, with a CT racing 350 kit, is he had the exact same symptom, and it started after his build, and running the same straight race fuel and pre mix, what he found was, oil in the bowl of his carb, like the pre mix was collecting there, he runs a Kehin I think a 40, and he drains the bowl, (plug on bottom) and problem solved. That does not make sense to me, but I will check that. On a side note, we had the right plug out of the bike, and I kicked it over not knowing, and it started right away and ran. I am still a NOOB, and have posted questions, and you guys have given me great advise, I appreciate all of your expertice and any advise you may have. Thanks, Rick

Gentlemen, thank you. Based on that info, I will attempt to perform the coveted "Floating Of The Ground" Thanks again, Rick

Anybody got an opinion?

CAN YOU TELL BY LOOKING AT THIS IF ITS A STOCK OR MODIFIED STATOR? THANKS RICK

I am changing transmossion fluid ,1998 service manual says 10-30 motor oil, my bike is a 1990, I already have Maxima MTL 85wt 2 stroke trans fluid, I have a heavy duty clutch, is that okay to run? What do you guys run? Thanks, Rick

Got it, Just wanted to be sure. Thank you Rick

Thanks Bansheesandrider, So where does the new wire go to from the stator? Does the rectifier replace the voltage regulator? Rick

Is there a kit available or a part # regulator/rectifier (I assume that is different than the voltage regulator I just bought because mine was missing) Is the ground on the lighting side or the ignition side of the stater, and when you say "float the ground", what does that mean? Thanks Bansheesandrider Rick

Is there a way to charge a battery on a banshee? I have one mounted for the NOS. Its a 12 volt motorcycle battery. I have read the complete thread about the wiring, lighting ect. Thanks Rick

I may be interested if BURKE does not take them. I will be in Glamis Friday to Monday, Please post picks and how much. Thanks, Rick

Thanks, Thats a great read!! I like the simple wiring harness at the end of that link, and think at some point I will fab one up, The carb stuff and the key switch has been eliminated already, I do have a battery for the NOS, is there a way to wire it in so it gets charged? Thanks, Rick

New banshee to me and the lights do not work. Previous owner said he thought the light wiring was used to power the NOS. After inspection that was not the case, but light wiring was not hooked up. Here is what I saw. 1) Each head light has 4 wires, green, yellow, black, and a fabric insulated white. 2) They both work using black as ground and white as hot hooking straight to a battery, nothing happens with green or yellow. 3) On the bike side there are 2 harnesses with wires that do not hook up to anything that seemed to be heading to the lights, one has 6 wires and 1 has 4 wires. I could not run the bike last night but today I was thinking with the bike running and a test light I should be able to find a couple of power leads in one of those 2 harnesses. Am I missing something? i would appreciate any advise. Thanks, Rick

You guys are corect, I slid my big fat ass ubder my Banshee, with a flashlight and one good eye, there it was!!! THANKS!!!!!!!!!

I have what I think is a BIG problem. I was removing the gas tank to inspect wiring ect, and when I removed the left rear gas tank bolt, there was a nut on the under side that droped down to the case under the left carb. I was fishing it out with my fat fingers and it dissapeared. There is a hole in the top of the case the size of my finger that looks like it goes into the crank case. It is right by the identification number, under the wiring that goes into the left side case for the stator. First, my nut went down the hole, and second, how much sand and water went down the hole?? Just got the bike and I only ran it for about 30 minutes, but I did wash it and I know the bike has been to Glamis, there is still sand in that general area. What is the hole for? Does this mean engine rebuild? Thanks, Rick

I have a link. What about front? Thanks