xtankx

Still looking for some cheap YFZ front shocks!

Looking to buy some yfz stock shocks in good condition. Do not come up in my thread my different alternatives OR saying i'm better to stick with stock banshee shocks. That being said, post what you got! Thanks

TTT!

Today is a really fresh day out here (about 2 degrees farenheit) so I don't know if it contributed to this BUT.... I've been able to idle the bike for a good 15-20 minutes without fouling any plugs... Beetween that 20 minutes, I went down the street twice to give it some and never fouled a plug... What I did? I replaced the carburetor cap rubber seals that were ripped and cut and put up some new ones I made out of a bicycle tube. Also volcano, I'll look into those b8es plugs you are talking about. Thanks for advice. I'll also get some longer screws for idle adjustement. Now, we'll see if it last! Thanks for help! Frank

Idle screws might be a part of the problem but not all of it.... There are rubber seals under carburetor caps and mine are in pretty bad shape. Could it be a part of my problem?!

Alright, couldn't put some time on my Banshee this week and today I took off the choke plunger, cleaned it out and changed the oring.... Now, seems like it will just NOT IDLE cause of the screws. I know of a shop where I live that sells the longer screw + spring kit... I might just go for that. So for now, engine starts, warms up and idle goes so low that motor stops. What's next ? Thanks for help everybody!

Hey, Looking for a set of hanguards with mounts. Needs to be in good condition and BLUE or BLACK. Thanks

Not trying to be a b**** but there are tons of thread in the "For Sale" section being updated each hours selling the exact stuff you're asking for. So I think you'd just have more chances to find what you're looking for browsing those threads. My .02 or a Free bump.

Not only Clymer tells you how to do it, but it tels you what tools to use and such info. Lots of other stuff you might not even think of is in that book. This manual is a must for all DIY home mechanics.

On the idle screws, there's the nut that holds the screw in place.... I could loose it and use a spring..... I haven't touch to choke plunger yet BUT, can I remove it without having any issues like, gas flowing out.... (I plan on putting the petcock on off before doing it)... Thanks for help Larry

PM sent for plastics!

Like I said a couple of posts up, High rev trouble seems to have disappear since I dissassembled carbs, did some cleaning, put em back in place carefully.... Maybe it was just some air going through a misplaced/loose component, I dont know actually. But I fired it and I was done with the rev problem. Now the engine still dies on itself... I let it sit on idle and plug keeps fouling on left cylinder. Like Larry's Shee said, it could be the choke plunger o-ring being worn/cracked which could cause a gas leak, just enough to make it run too rich on one side... It sounds pretty plausible cause I noticed that my plunger isn't smooth a all when I try to pull it out or in.... Also, I think that my idle screws aren't long enough to catch the sliders so adjusting idle with these is useless...

Hahaha today was pretty cold out here.... I'm supposed to run around 250's on main during summer time and still was a little rich so I went 2 pts up for a 270 .... Might be fine now. I'll let you know when I get this done!

You're the second person talking about that choke plunger seat.... I'll take a look at that tomorrow! Thanks!

I got Vforce3 Reeds, Pro Circuit pipes, TORS elimination kit, and slightly machined (air entrance) stock mikuni 26mm carbs. 270 mains, 27.5 pilot and needle set at 4th position and 1.5 turns on air screws. Running with 40:1 mix. Range from 1250-1750ft above sea level. Running NGK BR9ES plugs and LEFT cylinder (on seat) is fouling. Carbs are sync'd. I haven't checked spark yet nor I've done a leakdown test. I haven't rode it since my main concern is getting a good idle.

+2

Fouled. Wont fire anymore.

Little update... I took of the carbs to see what could be wrong. Set the air screws to 1.5 turns. Move the needle clip from 3rd to 4th position. Turned 2 turns out the idle screws. The High rev problem seems to have stop BUT motor still dies after a couple minutes. Idle gets real weak and low and can't start it back.... Didnt take a look but I think I burned a plug, once again....

The motor rev RIGHT at start. Choke is always off. For the throttle cable, I always give 3-4 hits on the throttle to make sure it's not sticked and then I start the motor. I got Vforce3 Reeds, Pro Circuit pipes, TORS, and slightly machined (air entrance) stock carbs. 270 mains, 27.5 pilot and needle set at 3rd position and 2 1/4 turns on air screws. Running with 40:1 mix. Things is, after rebuilt, banshee was running great. I dissassembled the carbs to switch jets for winter and when I got everything back on, the rev'ing thing started from there... For elevation, from house to playgrounds, range woul varie from 1000-1750(2000) feet above sea level. Thanks for help.

Here's the problem... When I start the engine, it's reving pretty high during a minute or two than it goes down as the engine gets hot... After that, Idle seems okay but a little weak and then cylinder 1's spark plug dies. I know that I'm running a little rich, which may not help with idle and some guys already told me it could be a leak. Let me know your .02 about this! Thank you!

No air leak. Left plug is too rich and right plugg seems fine but then again...

Brown (but still a little too dark) plug is on the RIGHT side...

I tried jetting with the Banshee Digital Toolkit but it doesnt seem to be working... I'm sure someone can help me with this....