Drturbodiesel

Thanks. I'm definenently wanna start with 27.5 for baseline

Ok then. 1says it will 1says it won't. Lol and your rite there's prolly plenty of v force info on here just decided to ask since that the direct reason I asked the pilot jet question. ( and I'm lazy) but anyway I think 27.5 it is. And thanks for recommendations

Thanks. I know there is no way to know what's going to be perfect besides trial and error. I just noticed that most of you say to bump up when going to v force reeds. By the way is there any opinions on the v4s yet? I would be fine with stock reeds if I dident have a weak one but the fact that there's no screws in the v force kinda sold me on them.

Finally tore down banshee for top end rebuild. Was bone stock and still ran well was just getting weak on one side 120 and 80 psi comp was reason for tear down. Anyway will be runnin pro lite pistons. Stock porting but will also be addin fmf fattys k&n with pro flow. I'm at 164 feet elevation. I got some 280 mains to start with. But I noticed one reed was not closing by itself like others. So was going to order v force 4 reeds. Is it also a good idea to bump pilot up to 27.5 before I even start it ? Thanks just tryin to get most parts ordered before cylinders come back from maching

Thanks for tha info guys. I am a certified technician on cummins and Chrysler products and have done many single cyl dirt bikes and atvs. Just wondering about that stuff to make it that much faster cause I'm workin outside and planning around the weather. Never done a banshee before but I am confident just wanted a time estimate. Thanks and keep ringing and dinging.

Hey guys I'm gettin ready to do a top end overhaul on a bone stock 05 model. What all is nescery to be removed to access cylinders? About how much time does it usually take from starting the job to having cylinders off. Just wanting a estimate thanks

Man wish I could have got up wit you earlier. Just bought a set off eBay. But anyway good luck

I need a stock carburetor bowl for a 2005. My drain screw stripped (cant get it loose). As a matter of fact wouldent mind having a set of bowls. Thanks

Did they sell?

Well did they sell?

My right side is weak can't remember how low I wanna say it took forever to build 80 psi with compression test and left side had 118 psi pretty quick. I also have a slight piston slap noise on right side. Anyway yes it needs to be freshened up and the start by hand thing was just an example of how weak she done got. (dident know others would) but just wanted a good site sponser with a fast turnaround that's all. The old guy that does them local doesent care about his work as long as its close and he gets paid. I want mine as close to perfect as possible. Thanks again

Thanks guys I think I like idea of the pro flow if it lets u keep the lid. I do a lot of riding in wet conditions gotta hav tha lid. I also see from u guys response that there is no hope for the stock cage weatherstrip bull shit. Ha what was Yamaha thinking. Lol

Is there any way to make the stock air filter system not sutch a piece of shit? I am only worried about the sealing off of the cage against the box. I figure the lid helps hold cage against the box but cant see how well because the lid is on. Ha. But anyway I went to a local hardware store and bought sum self adhesive weatherstrip and used it between the filter cage and box. Is there a better way to have a sure seal with lid on and stock components ? Just wondering trying to protect a soon to be new engine but need to retain lid and stock filter if possible. Thanks for any proven suggestion.

Hey everyone it's me again. I found out the old girl was gettin weak last year before I put it up for winter. I have prolly started it three times since winter. Last time I could push the kick starter with my hand to start it I think she is on original bore and never been touched. Anyway who is a reputable site sponser that can do my bore and sell me some new wiscos at a descent price but top quality work. (and I will check it before assembly)? I'm in Mississippi so I will have to ship them unless there's someone local which I'm sure there's not. Hook me up ! Thanks in advance

Uhh where's ur reeds and screws?

My last reply dident come out like I mean. I dident know cases has to be split to replace crank seals. Mine will not b that far apart. So disreguard my question but I did gain the knowlage of the fact u can't just swap them out so thanks for that.

It's the bikes first overhaul. It's not that I can't or need to learn. U guys say the case has to be split I'm assuming they must install from the inside. I dident know that I thought they could be done with engine on bike. I don't have time to take it apart that far just for preventive matnince. If it was a older bike that had been running a long time I sure would. But mine is a 05 and it the first overhaul so if I had to split cases I'll just wait and Make sure it passes leakdown test after I get new top end assembled. Thanks for the info

Hey welcome to banshee hq. I'm a new member aswell. I just figured I share my simalar experience. I recently bought one that's doin almost the exact same thing. I determined I have weak compression on the side doin that. Mine is exactly like it came new no mods and never been rebuilt. It doesent matter tho if it's tame mild or wild like some of the other guys said I would chech compression on both sides and compare as a starting point. Then move on to leak down if that's good. If leak down and compressin are good then I woul move on to fuel and spark. Good luck let us know what u find.

Wait a minute if u have to split cases to change them than I'm out. There's nothin wrong with the ones in it. I thought I could pull the flywheel and maybe stator to change that side and clutch cover and what ever else to her the main drive gear off the other side. I'm not spiliiin cases

Thank you. I am 100 percent sure Its the uneven compression and I used this sites procedure to determine that so you guys are rite. As some guys admitted the Honda tech was rite about what this test checked for but wrong about the numbers not meaning shit. I am no idiot mysel. Just panicked when I bought a my first banshee and found somethin pretty major wrong with it. I guess I was in denial. Nobody wants there new to then bike to be fucked up from the door. But anyway I agree with last guy. At lower rpm is when the problem is most noticable because in upper rpm the pressure just flat out does not have as much time to leak by the defective/worn ring and or worn cyl. So anyway thanks to all the guys that know what the hell there talkin about. This problem is offically diagnosed now whose going to send me sum money to get it fixed. Lol I still got to finish paying for the bike itself first.

thanks for ur opinion. I agree it's cheap insurance.

Hey I just found out I need to do a top end rebuild. The crank seals are not what failed to cause this but how many of you would replace them anyway? Just wondering

Tors are already gone. I haven't seen any proof that a boost bottle does anything besides look shiny and cost money. There is definently controversy on that topic tho. Sweet lookin banshee by the way. I am curious as to why it's already been overhauled like the other guy said but I agree I would put some new plugs and look at them and make sure it's not lean now.

Well there's different ways to go about troubleshooting this problem. The very first thing I would suggest is testing static compression. Especially if this bike is new to you. If that tests good then I would test for vaccum leaks then I would move on to fuel and ignition. But that's just my opinion. Some guys will tell u all different things to check first and they are not wrong at all. I just start at the main things and rule them out first then move on from there. Hopefully u only have a fuel or jetting issue but ur going to go around in circles if u start messing with that stuff and u don't have a solid base engine. Just my opinion good luck