dmcblaster

just fired up my rebuilt banshee last weekend. it has a new noss head on it. i removed the gas tank to check a few things and noticed some coolant in the 90deg elbow screw hole on the rear of the head. the elbow has not been removed. i checked the two screws and both were tight. any ideas?

Sold

Anyone else care to give some input?

Ive read that people route the vent hose out the back but wont tranny fluid leak out if tipped backwards?

Im in the process of rebuilding my banshee. I stripped her down to the frame and had it powdercoated. So.. lets start with grounding. What all needs to be grounded to the frame? I know the wiring harness needs to be grounded at the rear of the frame. The ign coil has a ground wire but it has bare metal where the mounting bolts go through the coil so im wondering if the coil is also grounded to the frame through the bolts. Anything else im missing? I have not removed any powdercoating at the ground connections so its just using the screw threads to ground. I checked the ground connections with my multimeter and everything checked out good but wondering if this will work or should i remove the powdercoating on the frame at the grounding points for a better connection? Vent Hose.... I have most of the vent hose routing figured out but im wondering about the rear crankcase vent with the white fitting. Exactly how does that hose get routed up to the T connection? Does the white fitting in the crankcase point rearward, hose attaches to fitting and does a 180 deg turn over the rear engine mount bolt up to the T fitting? Or does it route a different way?

Relisted Item. http://www.ebay.com/itm/181099734196?item=181099734196&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

did not know that... was going off factory price which is what i paid.

why not?? its roughly $50 off new price and barely used. im sure the scuffs could be sanded and buffed away to look like new.

One day left on auction!!

bump

No domes. You can buy them from Noss Machine or if i remember correctly you can use the Pro Design domes... someone correct me if im wrong.

I have a Noss Machine cool head im looking to sell. This cool head was used for less than 10 hours of riding time. It is in very good condition other than a few light scratches and scuffs that can been seen in the pictures. The cool head, o-rings and nuts/washers are clean and ready to be installed. Starting Price $150.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/181094195532?item=181094195532&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr Please email me if you have a question.

I use Mobile 1 10-30 motorcycle oil. Whats the advantage to using ATF?

Thanks for the replies everyone. I used the front lock washer but didnt use the rear sprocket lock bars. I used alot of blue loctite on the rear nuts. I have some engine tuning to do so ill keep a close eye on the rear sprocket between runs. Ill look into getting some locking nuts. Should I just get the ones with the plastic inserts or something different? There was a topic a while back about what service manual is better and im finding more and more screw ups with the clymers manual. It says the rear sprocket nuts should be torqued at 44 ft.lbs. At first i didnt think twice about it but once i started to tighten the nuts I was like wait a min.... 44 ft.lbs seems a lil much. I ended up torquing them to 25 ft.lbs. I torqued the front sprocket to 59 ft.lbs...hopefully thats right. So does anyone have a factory Yamaha shop service manual with all the correct torque specs that would be willing to scan and send me? Or is there a list somewhere on this site? One more thing.... I purchased a Tusk billet case saver but once I seen how it bolted on using the tiny bolts im not sure if I like the idea. It looks like the case saver will also come into contact with the case to make it more secure. I should of done my research before ordering it but im finding out that there not such a good idea. I guess the chain can bust through the plastic ones and the billet ones can still bust the case. I would think if enough pressure would hit the billet case saver it could still crack the case and/or cause damage where it bolts with the 3 small bolts and you would still end up with a messed up case. I left it off for now but just wanting some more opinions.

Hey.. Im in the process of chaning out my sprockets and was wondering if you guys re-use the factory lock washer on the front sprocket? Wondering the same about the factory lock bars on the rear sprocket. I was just thinking about putting some loctite on the threads but if its a must that i use the lock washer and bars i will.

If the filter is dripping oil into your airbox then you over oiled it. Its very easy to over oil the k&n. Not sure if thats your problem but wouldnt hurt to re-clean & oil the filter.

I have the clymers. I think its a good book for the most part but theres some missing info. I cant remember exactly what it was but it said to torque the bolt to spec. which could be found on table 3. Turn the pages to table 3 and nothing is listed about it. Some of the example pics suck too.

+1 on the DMCs

Anyone else?? I was talking with DMC and mentioned that I was running a 260 main and he said that sounds to lean for my mods. He told me to bump up to a 300 main. 300 sounds like it would be to rich. I told him that my plugs were brown on the insulator but he still insisted on the 300. I might try a 280 and see what happens.

Im not seeing the "how to/plug chop" at the top. Does it say anything about a plug chop in the clymers manual? Seems like the plug chops could get expensive. Do you do a plug chop at different throttle positions or just WOT?