421alkybanshee

another pic

pics finally

im having trouble uploading new images. my pictures are too big.

Not hurting my feelings, thanks for showing me what you got for that price. I just purchased a set of shearers and has no need for these and didnt know what they were worth. So with that in mind, ill take best offer on these pipes. Thanks

$375.00 and I can sell

Today when i was topped out in gear it was difficult to pull the clutch in(hard), then i figured i should hit hte brakes a bit and then i was able to pull the clutch in. Is this normal? i figured it was the lock up still engaged because of the engine RPM. If possible could someone post a pick of how that pancake bearing is installed? I hope I have that installed correctly.

They have some surface rust on them, but nothing that cant be cleaned up. Thanks for asking

These pipes are out of frame, left side drag pipes. I think they are small bore, and made by Grand River Racing here in Michigan, but I am not sure. pulled good on my 421 cub, but I am now using a different set. $400.00 takes them

The reason I asked this is I just had a clutch weld problem on the first time out. The only thing i can figure is I put the rod and ball and pancake bearing in dry, so this time I filled the center where the rod and ball is with grease even the pancake bearing. I took it out today, and didnt have a problem but I only got on it hard twice and one time I had a hard time pulling the clutch in but once i breaked a bit then I pulled the clutch in with no problem. I used RDZ heavy spring on every other spring other than the everyother stock spring and man is the clutch hard to pull. Theres another question, with the lockup should I just use stock springs or stay with that ive done? thanks is advance I appreciate your help. I just dont want problems right out of the gate when I get this thing to milan or martin speedway to see what it will run in 1/4 mile

Hi, what is the best way to stop or slow down with a lockup clutch and a full override tranny cut by RDZ? I have a 421 cub on alcohol with a 2-6 cut transmission with a billet basket with a direct drive and a pancake bearing installed. Once i reach 1/4 mile, How should I slow down without welding the clutch rod and ball? Right now ive been starting out in 1st using the clutch, then shifting through all the gears then stepping on the back brake and fronts too slow down a little then pulling in the clutch untill I come to a complete stop. One time I did that i had a hard time pulling the clutch in because I think the motor was too high rpm and the direct drive was still somewhat engaged. Give me some tips please, I dont want too tear down all the time because of the pancake bearing failure, or somthing of that nature.

also, how can you tell if they have been resleeved?

So how much more life is left on these?

If I have a rough idea of what a set of cylinders measure out to with a set of dial indicators= 2.560 what is this in MM? Im trying to figure out a bore size on this banshee i just aquired. It had namura pistons in it that read 1.00 on the top of them. Thanks for your help

Stock bore? Who ported them? and what type of porting done? where you located at? im in southern Michigan