Windrosa seals on ebay ive never had a problem, although everyone will say use a site sponsor. And you wont need and gaskets if you dont take the topend off. Just 1211 silicone to mate the cases.
Although you cant really change the crank seals if you leave the top end on.
Yes there is the clutch holder tool but I usually get a rag and wedge it in the crank gear to basket gear as well as put a rag in my hand and hold the basket while I hit it with a impact. You can even put the clutch back in to help hold the roll if you press and hold it together while you impact it.
Also on the ziptie thing, you will.see once you get the motor out and covers all off and it should make sense. Ill try and draw a pic for you.
Yes sorry, didnt think I need to say pull motor.
-Yes pull pipes carbs, filters.
-Then plastics and tank which is a few bolts.
-plugs
-Clutch cable off case
-remove motor mounts 2 underneath, 4 12mm bolts in front frame, 2 long bolts thru cases.
No, they say split them because the rod is in the tranny and the only way is splitting. There isnt much to splitting.
-pull stator cover and clutch cover
-remove flywheel and stator/plate.
-remove clutch pack with 6 bolts then big center one, all slides off
(If you want to leave topend on run a tie down or zip ties from the crank snout over the head and back down to the other side crank nut. To hold crank into top case)
-remove the half moon safety tab behind basket
-pop the kicker off, it just sits there in a hole with a spring in a slot.
-remove the 8 bolts on top(I think 8)
-remove the 8 nuts underneath
CASES WILL NOW SPLIT
Now pull the trans out and keep track of where the forks slide into each gear slot. Take pics as you go. Easy peezy
Pulling your clutch and holding it in for long periods of time. Revving while holding in just builds heat and welds it faster. Once you put a pancake bearing on the pusher it spins free when you pull the clutch. So the amount of friction and heat built up is cut in half or less= no welding. Got it?