Roccdeezy

Csfx

I have a set of polished silencers from cascade innovations. I bought them for the oregon dunes and never used them. These have the star caps and stingers for in frame CPI pipes. Small bore. I paid $325 and they are brand new. I'll sell them for $240 and you pay shipping obo. Call or text Eric 509-551-1199.

OK. Will it only start on the first kick. sound like each cylinder maybe fired once, or does it actually try to idle for a couple seconds

You said this is a project. has it ran at all since you've had it. sounds like a problem I had when I put a new stator on.

payment sent!

I'll take the pipes....pm sent

thank god for know it alls. yeah feed off the stinger. you should get lots of pressure there.

that definatly makes it eisier. i would try a aluminum airbox seal it up tight and feed into the box and use a pipe like this to get started http://images.andale.com/f2/115/127/18224392/1116712451917_1116062703377_500_019.jpg obviously you will need a bigger expansion chamber. just a little cutting and welding. it may not look pretty at first but it would be cool.

you almost would want to find a cheap 2 into one pipe and cut the header collector off and weld it on a snow mobile pipe since the expansion chamber on snow mobiles are usually big. i know a 2 into 1 pipe would not have a big enough expansion chamber for a turboed banshee motor. basically I think this is going to be a trial and error. another big issue for you is going to be an oil supply for the turbo. i heard of people saying the've used(or were going to try) the stock oil injection to supply them. my opinion is the stock oil injection is not going to be an efficiant oiling system. not enough pressure. you'll need a oil tank and a high volume pump. also its going to need an intercooler for the oil as well. good luck. i know its possible. im not sure on hp numbers but you can build a natural aspirated banshee to be a monster.

im not sure but i think your biggest problem is going to be the exhaust side. some how you would have to run a 2 into 1 pipe to get the pressure to spool the turbo even on both sides. Im sure for the intake you could possibly use an aluminum air box and feed it in that way.

when you say not perfect,whats wrong with them. I want shearers or cpi but I'm not sure if the big bore will work for me. I have a 4 mil with 66mm pistons. I think the big bore is for 68mm or bigger. Is that correct.

How does 400 shipped sound.

sorry! disregard last reply. Try to pop it up a little ways and turn it while still pulling

If its the clutch arm you need to pull the clutch cover and run the center screw out on the clutch. then it will come right out. The shift shaft requires you to remove the clutch basket.

Thanks! I just wasn't sure how the rubber rings would bond with grease.

I just purchased one of the Chariot cool heads. I am having a hell of a time keeping the orings in place while putting the head on. Anyone have experience with this head and the install. Also I want to double check that I used the correct o-rings. I installed one under each dome. one around the combustion chamber of each dome where it seats to the cylinder and two additional o-rings that sit on the edge of the head that also seats to the cylinder. There was another ring for the water jacket mount as well. I had two small o-rings left over and I assume they may be for a different head design or dome design. Let me know if you guys have any input. Thanks! Will grease be OK to hold the orings on the head for installation. I'm leary of this because rubber does not always bond well with grease. I tried 927 but it is not thick enough to hold the orings in place.

did the bike run with the old stator? Also is the clearance set between the magneto and pick up coil. Don't take this wrong but did you put the woodruff key on when installing the new stator. Also make sure nothing is grounded. If all else fails start puting all the wires back together that you cut and start over.

FYI the wires that I had to swap were the red/white wire with the green/white wire. I swapped them by the white plug on the stator side.

I got one right out of the box that didn't work. Put it on and could not figure out what the hell was wrong. the bike would give one fart and sound like it wanted to run but would not. The lights would come on when kicking it too.the stator even tested good. It turned out the wires were soldered on backwards to pick up coil. Instead of sending it back I swapped the wires myself. did the bike run with the rm stator you bought or did you just put it on and it won't run?

Its probably fine since vito's designed it. There is probably room for porting on those cylinders. I'm not a big expert on transfers. But if you're dropping below them then your probably getting more fuel up top because of the extra up and down time of the piston. If they where blocking them then it would be an issue.

sounds like a fuel or electrical problem. Either reeds or carbs on the fuel side as long as the motor has good compression and n leaks. On the electrical side it could be the pickup coil clearance is wrong or one of the magneto tits is scarred. I've seen cdi's fail at really high rpm but thats usually on fully built banshee's.

I'm looking at buying a manifold with built in cross over. Is this just a cleaner look or is the performane superior to the original boost bottle set up. Let me know any experience that you may have with this.

hey bud. do you know how to do an advanced search on ebay. As long as you bougth the item on ebay,have the item number and the guys username you can go to ebay, click advanced search and on the left side of the screen click on find cantact info. Then enter the info. It will send the guys phone number to your email. Hope this helps.

actually the plate is for port timing and head clearance. Head clearance is a free bee while port timing is the critical item to getting a 4 mil to run correctly. Its pretty obvious you would need head clearance when adding over a 1/4(7mm) inch to the top of your piston with a longrod 4 mil. The same goes for the 795 or blaster piston. its for port timing and head clearance, not just head clearance. Then again I think this is apples and oranges. I also agree that when running a plate no head work is required. I may have said that in a previous post but it is not required with the plate and stock pistons however is required if having cylinders ported and not running a plate or going with a blaster piston. I highly do not reccomend a motor with a stroker plate at all.

best advice is to check for spark. get an old plug or pull one from the cylinder and ground it to the engine and start kicking. If no spark then you better have some time to start testing. It could be anything and everything. I do have a few cases where I was not getting spark. It could be the woodruff key broke, the magneto crank bolt threaded out and the magneto fell off in the case. bad cdi, bad coil, bad stator. These are your most typical problems. The tors could be a problem thats why most people remove them(also to get a little extra top end). If anyone tried to replace the stator I can tell you the older bikes use the pickup coil on a postive signal and the new ones pick up a signal on the negative side(or vice versa). just swap wires on the pickup. You will need a multimeter to test everything. the only thing you cannot test is the cdi. Do you have any info on what the bike did the last time it ran or who and what was worked on last.