Roccdeezy

the coil fires both plugs everytime it fires. So if one side is firing then the coil is good. However there is always a possibility of a short to the side not firing. The short would be in the wire if you already tried new boots. next time just switch boots before buying new ones to see if thats the problem. All I can tell you is to be careful and try to remove the wire and clean it. I have tried before and broke the clip every time. Good luck!

One other note. You will get more power out of a ported cylinder then you will with a 4 mil crank with stock cylinders. I've seen some fast banshee with stock cranks and drag ported cylinders. Obviously a stroker with drag ported cylinders or aftermarket cylinders will be faster but money becomes an issue for some.

Try racing him on pavement. You mentioned the front wheels coming up in 3rd on pavement. So its obvious you will have traction there. If you stomp him then you know its traction. (i'm pretty sure thats part of it). Also dont over inflate your tires. hard tires will not have any traction at all. Im not sure on P.S.I. but they should be a little soft.If you lose on pavement with your current setup I would look other places like those huge carbs. Bigger carbs are not better unless the motor can use the air and fuel and I know a stock cylinder cannot burn all that fuel. I'm not sure how lean you can go with those carbs but some smaller main jets may help. But be careful to check your plugs if you go that route. going too lean will smoke the motor. I'm not sure if that is possible with those carbs. Good luck. Also rather then spending a bunch of money to basically go back to a stock bike send the cylinder off and have it ported. Most of the parts you have will then work great together.

OK! the 795 does have to do with the rod lenth. it gets the port timing as close as possible by moving the center pin up 5-7mm(Icant remember the exact distance). Also I understand what the plate does. It is the correct space needed for the stroke to match port timing. without it you port the cylinders to get the correct port timing. I'm running (rebuilding) a 4 mil with blaster pistons. That is most of my knowledge. Also many people that I have delt with say the 795 has the same pin location as the blaster(i know the domes are different) but is the piston ports the same? I'm under the impression they are. I have no knowledge of the 513 pistons. I assume they are a 2 or 4 mm offset pin is all.

I agree fouledout. That was my fault. The 795 piston is for a long rod. I beleive the 4 mil 110 rod has to use a stroker plate with stock pistons. I dont think I've seen a 110 without the plate.

Your right. You have to get the exhaust ported to match up with the piston for correct port timing. since its going to the shop you should have the intake ported as well to make some good power. You can then run a 795 banshee piston up to a 68mm or a blaster piston from 66mm and up without a stroker plate. Just make sure you have the correct dome becasue blaster and banshee pistons have different angle domes. Also make sure you go with the 115 rod. the 110 is really hard on the cylinder and there is not many options with a 4 mil 110mm rod other then stock cylinders. 115 rod will leave you more options down the road for a cub or cheetah.

You mentioned you leave him at the line. In theory the 400 should leave you off the line. I bet he is running some really high gearing especially if he is getting you in the top end. Also is weight an issue. Is this guy like 80lbs. To be honest Im really lost. a 400 ex is really not that fast of a bike. Most banshee's with good filters, pipes and some jetting can beat almost any (STOCK) 450 in a drag race.

Yeah I knew that would stir up a little tension. No hard feelings. I prefer my ltr in the mountains but I do ride my banshee on trails too. I just feel that most people build strokers for hp and speed. Dont get me wrong any cylinder that gives you good low and high power is good cause we all hate to load our banshee's up and foul plugs. So a good all around power curve is a good thing. But honestly did you build a 4 mil to be a better trail rider or to haul ass. You know what I'm saying.

good luck! hope you get it figured out. I'm a paranoid person myself when it comes to putting motors back together.

something is wrong with your banshee. The only way I see you losing is if your racing short distances or your banshee is not running right. Are you running stock pipes with 34mm carbs? You didn't mention any pipes in your list of parts and that would be a problem with that big of carbs.

There just doesnt seem to be enough info about the athena big bore. I looked at it a while back and I couldn't bring myself to buy it. The only place you can buy it is ebay and I think I found one other place. They have no stroker option. It is only for a stock crank, thats it. I think you may kick yourself in the but if you buy it. I dont know where you would get technical help on that set up either. It may bolt on and be the best kit ever but its kind of a shot in the dark. If you put your motor back stock with a dune ported cylinder i think you would be happier performance wise.

LOL......18cc was right the first time.

I agree. However I dont know many people that bulid any strokers 4 mil to 20 mil that want low end power to trail ride.I know saying that may stir up some shit on the forum cause i trail ride my banshee time to time but thats not what I built it for. I built it to haul ass up hills and at the sand drags. We are all looking for topend HP at that point. I would say if you want a trail bike leave the stock crank in it with small carbs for quick response on the throttle. A stock banshee with pipes is already faster then it needs to be for trail riding. Not trying to cause problems just stating my opinion just like you. No hard feelings.

the flywheel side has the crank seal which has a rubber oring around it that sits in the grooves this could cause friction if not properly aligned. did you lube the crankseals before assembly. they could just be dry and your feeling the friction from no oil on the seals and crank. It may be that the crank just feels tight because the bearings are new as well. try to freewheel it with the socket and see if it starts to spin easier. listen for noise. When in doubt split the case again and double check your work. its easier and cheaper to do it now rather then later.

I agree a cub is more expensive. But it is easier to pull the cylinder out of the box and put it on with no modification. I run stock drag ported cylinders with 66mm blaster pistons in my 4 mil. Stock cylinders have to have port work done on the exhaust regardless unless a stroker plate is used with a 4mil 115mm rod. The only way to run stock cylinders without any modification is to run a 4 mil 110mm rod with 795 pistons which have the exact same center pin location as a blaster piston with a different angle dome. Almost all aftermarket cylinders are set up for the 115mm rod so it's almost always better to buy the long rod crank in case you plan on upgrading down the road.

could be low on compression too. a good tell tell of low compression is hard to start cold. also you said your new to the bike. Are you new to 2 strokes? if so you might just be feeling the powerband. banshee's do not have 4 stroke torque. they have see you later top end.

try feeling the pipes and see if one is hot and one is cold when riding it. It could be a bad plug, bad or plugged jets or a dirty filter. It also could have a ported cylinder set up for topend and it may be doogish down low depending on the porting. too big of carbs will cause this too. for now just check to see if one of the pipes is cool. if they both burn you then its running the way its suppose to for the previous owner

There is a lot when builder a stroker. keep in mind a long rod will not change your displacement at all. it just reduces side load on your cylinders and moves your port timing up in the cylinder. Im not sure if they sell a stock stroke 115mm rod but it could possibly raise compression but would need ported cylinders to get port timing correct .it does nothing else.

Regardless of the way you want to go you will have to have special domes or have your head rechambered. The reason for the spacer is to get the port timing correct. The plate is under $100 and thats why people use them. The plate is a poor mans build and usually leaks and the motor goes lean and thats all she wrote. The proper way would be to send the cylinders to a rep machine shope and have the cylinders ported for a 4 mil and then no stroker plate is required. Its about 3 to 4 times the price of the stroker plate. Last but not least you can run a stroker wiseco piston with a banshee stroker dome or blaster wiseco pistons with special cut domes. Keep in mind if you run blaster pistons with banshee domes your setting yourself up for disaster. They have different angle domes and I can't remember the angles off the top of my head,but they are different. Its a lot easier to build a stroker with cubs because they are designed for all different strokes. Also to run blaster pistons you have to go with a 115mm long rod. the stock 110mm with 4mil stroker crank will not work.

try to retap the threads and give it another try. Cutting those off is no fun task. usually damages the stator too. Also try an impact gun and drive it in a hair. But be carefull not to go to tight and damge the crank threads. This is also hard on bearings. The problem is the damn woodruff key gets mauled up and gets jammed in the crank groove. Good luck!

did you make sure to align the dowel pins on the bearings in the slots at the top of the bottom case. If not the bearing willegg shape and be hard to turn.

I have stock cylinders. They need bored. I also have stock reeds and cages, stock head, and stock carbs. I also have used fmf fatty's. They are a little dirty but they still work good. I'm looking for 35mm carbs and intakes with good carbon fiber reeds. I preffer vforce 2 or 3s and also the chariot reed setup. Im willing to pay extra if anyone wants to trade. A lot of times people dont want stock stuff but for a sleeper or a poor mans build i threw it out there.

Also keep in mind a true sleeper will need cylinder porting to match up to a blaster piston if using a 4mil 115 rod to match the port timing otherwise you will have to use a stroker plate to get this right and banshee guys will see the plate as well.

No it is not where the bearing rides it is in the center of the left cylinder where the rod was banging on the bottom and top of the crank case. Now you said using emery cloth will clean it up. Is this the typical 4 mil banshee build cleanup job? Also what do you think About port matching the case to the cylinder. If i do not port match the case will it hurt me a lot or little when it comes to power.