mk2dubbin

what jets are in the carbs?

having used both strategies on my car; in my opinion - alpha-n is really the only way to go. speed density is nearly useless for an itb setup because the throttles open so quickly and nearly instantly take your engine to WOT. on top of that you will usually have a much higher idle vacuum pressure (higher in kpa, i.e. closer to atmospheric) so your effective control range is crap to begin with. i have no idea what the timing curve looks like on a banshee but if its a 3d curve, the speed density will miss a lot of the table. hybrid is more useful but will mostly be effective on an engine with boost, again because the control range of the speed density part of the equation is so ineffective.

i've been running MS1 V2.2 on my vw (16v with itb's) for a few years now and was joking around with a friend a few months ago about needing to do the banshee next. i doubt i will ever do it, but i like where this thread is going!

i already had one for balancing the individual throttle bodies on my car and also have used it on my banshee for synching the carbs. it works well for both engines though there isnt a lot of room for it on the banshee. you are correct, if there are air leaks downstream of the tool it cant account for that. like always - you need to be sure that your rubber couplers, gaskets, etc are tight and in good condition.

call DCNR with the VIN number and they will tell you exactly what you have to do. I had to do this a few months ago with mine since the previous owner had no title for it, but the original owner received a title and it was lost. in my case, DCNR sent out a letter to the original owner to either sign off that he doesnt own it - or he can try to claim that he still owns it. the original owner of mine was dead, so the letter was never replied to and DCNR was able to issue me a title in my name for the quad. youre in philly and the snomobile/atv division is based in harrisburg but you should be able to get the required notary work done at any atv dealer if you have the frame with you for VIN verification. i live near harrisburg so i just went to them directly. definitely call them. they know what theyre doing and should get you squared away with one phone call and no BS.

i loaded it up on the trailer and took it to my buddies house so we could swap parts if need be. i drive the hour or so down there, and i thought we would start by comparing spark. i kicked it once and it tried to fire. pulled the choke out and two more kicks and it fired right up on one cylinder while he was watching the spark on the other wire. we didnt change anything. so i honestly have no idea what the issue was, but at least it runs now!

i put a billet timing plate in now with all new bolts. i cleaned up the magnet on the pick-up and cleaned the tabs on the flywheel. i have spark but we still think it seems a little weak. both sets of plugs will spark now, though the brand new plugs wouldn't spark previously. i have fuel and spark and still no start. i am pretty burned out now and don't want to start throwing parts at it. it seems like it should be the coil at this point, but i just don't know. i think it's time to call the atv shop and get them to look at it.

i got the harness all fixed up last night and everything put back together. i moved on to the stator and i could get a .035 feeler gauge snugly in the gap so i believe that is probably my issue. unfortunately the bolts for the pick up are rusted and corroded fast so i am going to drill the heads off tonight and see if i can get the studs out. if not, i guess ill buy a new stator and an adjustable timing plate while i am in there.

sorry, i missed two posts earlier. didn't mean to ignore you. i will check for the choke tube tonight. i believe it was there, but it's definitely worth a look. i currently have the air box off because i put a new cable on for the thumb throttle and visually the carb slides lift equally and bottom out nicely. should be good enough to idle on until i can balance them up again...

no i have not tried to start it with the new plugs. simply because when i was testing for spark - i had weak spark with the used plugs and nothing with the new ones. i had no reason to think that the new plugs would fire the engine.

the TORS box is removed from the frame and the tors tops are removed from the carbs. the parking brake is removed completely as well as the oem clutch lever. it has a magura jack hydraulic clutch setup on it. i removed the twist throttle setup and put a chariot performance thumb throttle on it now so there is no wiring on the handlebars except for the kill switch and light switch wiring, oh and the key switch. with the TORS box removed, the carb tops removed, the throttle switch gone, and no parking brake - this thing should have no spark modifiers left. thanks for the heads up on the plug wire testing. i did ohm them out by themselves to be in the range listed in the tutorial and pretty close to one another.

i don't know why those plugs were in there unless he was trying to run it a little cooler than normal. i bought new plugs as a maintenance precaution and when i got them they said they B8ES were not available so i got the iridiums because they were the replacement. they apparently were misinformed because i have seen them online all over the place. since i have them i will run them once i get the quad running. the jetting should be fine as a friend was running the same setup just fine on his before he went to a single carb.

i printed out the electrical FAQ in this forum and started going thru some of it last night. i am cleaning the wiring and retaping the harness with friction tape as i go thru the system. below are some things i have found so far. the stator ignition circuit ohmed out correctly, the pickup circuit ohmed out correctly, but the lighting circuit was at 0.6 - well above the acceptable range. not worried about that at this point because it has nothing to do with the ignition. the primary side of the ignition coil was within spec, but couldn't get a reading thru the coil to the end of the cap like the FAQ said i should. it has a nology coil though and NGK race wires on it so i imagine the FAQ specs don't apply. i have no continuity from one end of the wire to the other, but maybe these aren't copper-strand wires like i am used to? the wires ohmed out within the specs. the kill switch wasn't operating correctly because it wasn't giving me continuity with the switch on 'OFF'. i cleaned the switch parts and determined the spring in the thumb button for the copper contacts was broken so i fixed that and it works properly now. i doubt this had anything to do with my issue though since i believe this just meant that i couldn't kill the ignition with the switch. there shouldn't be any way that it was grounding out my spark - but i feel better knowing things are done right and are working properly. the key switch checked out okay but when i took the connectors apart - the wiring came out of the connector. the connectors for the key switch are not factory, but they are quality parts. the crimp just wasn't done well on this terminal, so i soldered it together and shouldn't have any issues with it. to answer the input you guys have offered - it is possible that the coil is shot and i have wondered that myself. i just want to rule out everything i can prior to throwing parts at it and unfortunately my buddy lives an hour away so i don't make it down there too often. i doubt i will get a chance to swap coils and wires. the carbs SHOULDN'T be an issue since it's only been like 6 weeks since it was ridden/wrecked and it was ridden just prior to me buying it as well. i am getting fuel during cranking because i can smell it both with the choke on and the choke off. our gas around here has 10% ethanol in it but that shouldn't be enough to cause any issues. i did read yesterday about people often trimming the plug wires a bit for a better connection - does this apply to aftermarket wires as well? i dont believe they work the same way as far as the connection style goes. hopefully tonight i will get the harness finished up and eliminated as a culprit, and i will then gap the pick up on the stator and go from there. thanks for the input so far guys, i appreciate the ideas!

all wires seem intact and the insulation is in good condition. i did not plug anything back in that i didn't take apart myself when fixing the quad. the tors system was removed with the removal caps and cable, and i have changed it back to thumb throttle with a new cable. i did not see the little box you describe, however there was a small 2x2 box with a single white plug in my box of spare parts. i am sure that is the tors box you are referring to.

Hi guys. I have been lurking on the forums for about two months ago and bought my first banshee from a friend about 6 weeks ago. the night i bought it, i wrecked it due to a strange combination of conditions and a 1/4 turn twist throttle that got the better of me. i basically fell off the back in a 2nd degree wheelie and the bike rolled over on itself. i have been putting it back together slowly due to the fractured vertebrae i received from the incident and am now to the point i want it to run and it won't. i am new to banshee ownership but have ridden several over the years. my main hobby is vw's and consider myself technically savvy so don't be afraid to speak intelligently to me. with the background information out of the way, i have determined i have spark while kick starting - though it seems weak. prior to the accident, it started fine and usually on the first kick. it is mostly stock with a nology coil, aftermarket wires, .020 head shave, fmf pipes and silencers, and i think 280 jets off the top of my head. there are currently NGK B7ES plugs in it and i bought new plugs for it which are NGK iridium plugs which were supposedly the factory replacement plugs since the factory plug is no longer made. testing back to back, i have spark on the used plugs but no spark at all on the new plugs. as soon as i put the used plugs in, i have spark again. i am assuming that since the bike sparks at all, the stator is working properly. i swapped out cdi boxes with a friend and it made no difference. is it possible that the coil is bad or not not working efficiently enough to fire the plugs? any advice you can give me will be greatly appreciated. i will admit that the banshee electrical system is new to me but if i can do complete engine and electrical swaps in cars - i should be able to get this toy figured out! as it sits now:

Price for all 4 arms with skids? I really only need an upper left, but I might bite on a set if they are silver. Where are you in the 570? I am a half hour north of Harrisburg so pickup might be an option depending...

pm sent regarding spacers...