mk2dubbin

what all is included in the single carb setup? pics?

how much if you guys sell it? i am in the market if the price is right.

just to update everyone that took the time to help so far - i finally did another leak down test and it held 6 psi for 6 minutes. i didn't test beyond that. i had left the foot pump connected to the tester last time so it apparently either leaked at the valve stem or back through the pump. so my only leak was at the boost bottle. i pulled the intakes and reeds and at a glance they look good but i will clean them up a little and look at them closely. i've really been thinking about a single carb setup and so maybe i will head in that direction next since now is the time to do it with the bike ripped apart.

thanks for the explanation - it makes sense now! as far as the fuel i am running; I run 93 octane from Shell (always) with Klotz Supertechniplate at 40:1 or slightly better.

while I have it apart the first thing I want to do is check the reeds and also do another leakdown test to see if i can further track down the pressure that it is losing. i have been pretty busy with work and since i don't keep the bike at my house, i haven't had much free time to go over and mess with it much. hopefully this weekend i can get to some of it. i need some clarification on your carb tests please. if i put my hand over the outlet of the carb, how will trying to kick it over pull any air past my hand? if it can't flow air past my hand then my hand won't get wet with fuel. i believe i am misunderstanding something, sorry! or are you saying to put my hand over the inlet of the carb, thereby using the vacuum to pull only fuel thru the carb since no air would leak by? that part i would understand, but then why would my hand be wet on the inlet side of the carb and how would the reeds affect that situation?

actually they are on correctly, and i verified that there is fuel freely flowing thru the pickup tube and starter jet in the bowl. I fixed that issue on a friends banshee this fall and hers started easier than mine even before i swapped them! this bike has just decided this year to be a pain in the ass. whatever the underlying issue is - is something beyond the obvious. keep the ideas coming guys! i will either tell you what i know or i will get an answer as soon as i can get over there to look into it!

i have not checked the reeds, but that is my next step just to rule it out. i still have the carbs and pipes off of it so i planned on taking a look. they are vforce 2 reeds. as far as the spark goes - the spark seems normal. i have a nology coil and wires, proper plugs and gap, and i just put a new stator on this week with the pickup gapped at .016.

i checked the float height when i rebuilt the carbs and it was within spec using digital calipers.

it runs great once it is up and running. and usually once i am riding as long as i fire it back up within a half hour or so it fires on the first kick. i have a digital trail tech tach/hour meter on it and it idles in the 1300-1400 range. even saturday when i did all of this once it fired on full choke i dropped it to about half choke for maybe 30 seconds. flipped the choke off, held the throttle just above idle for a couple of seconds and then it will sit there and purr like a kitten. throttle jabs a responsive and snappy. the numbers from saturday were still bothering me today so i went over tonight and did another test. no carbs on, no pipes on, and no plugs in - just the compression tester. 115 right side and 117.5 on the left roughly. i have no idea why the numbers are higher tonight except that it was 35F so a few degrees warmer. completely cold engine this time though... with the numbers i got tonight i think i can comfortably say that the motor is still in decent shape and not in need of a top end rebuild, but now i am back to the same starting issue that i cannot explain. i had it firing in 3 kicks in 30F weather last year, and although i have changed pipes and jetting - i have done everything the same way each time but without the same results! can the kicker gear wear to the point that i am not getting proper rpm during kick starting? i think the tach usually registers about 380rpm while kicking. just asking out of curiosity and grabbing at straws a bit i guess... thanks for the help and input as always gents!

That seems to be where it is happiest though, and it may be because of the air leak i found at the boost bottle connections. that being said, i know there's a bunch of banshees around here running 32.5/300 jetting. i've had several conversations with one of my friends that does it and he swears by it and won't run anything else.

I am at roughly 800-1000 feet elevation. i am running DMC 916 pipes (recent silencer repack) with rebuilt stock carbs. jetting is 32.5 pilots with 300 mains. i think my air screws are about 1.5-2 turns out. i honestly can't remember at the moment. i am running a prodesign foam filter and filter plate inside the stock box with the box top cut open and another piece of foam in it as a pre filter. the head is shaved 0.020" and i am running 2* advanced timing. there were no clamps on the boost bottle prior to the test, but there are now. i didn't have the side covers off for the test, and i didn't bother hunting down where the loss is any further than that. it lost 3 pounds in just over 5 minutes, so i wasn't really worried baout it. if i need to rebuild it, i can replace any additional seals (like crank seals) while i have it ripped apart for peace of mind. i am the third owner of the bike and the guy prior to me is a personal friend. he owned it for 7 years and never did anything to the engine except for the shaved head. we believe the bore is stock, so considering it's a 2001 it certainly has the hours on it to qualify for a rebuild.

This year was a troublesome one for the banshee, often taking 30 kicks to get started and there were a few times in the fall where it was literally nearly 100 until it fired up. I had gone over the jetting and syncing many times and was confident in my work each time. I finally spent the time last night to build a leak down tester (thanks to the how-to threads on here!) and went to work on it today. I fired it up (about 18 kicks which was surprising of late especially considering it was 28F) and let it idle for 5-7 minutes to warm up a bit. I shut it off, pulled the gas tank and plugs, held the throttle open and kicked it over for the compression test on the right side. it stopped gaining pressure at about 17 kicks and it read 95 on the gauge. I was getting less than 30psi per kick for the first 3-4 kicks and then significantly less after that. I switched to the left side and got 110, and then rechecked the right side and got 110. Odd. Then I set about tearing it down to do the leak down test and while I was doing so it occurred to me that I don't think I had the throttle open for either of the tests that indicated 110, only the one that indicated 95. Is that normal? Once I got the exhaust caps nice and tight the only leak that I found was from the boost bottle where there were no clamps on the boots. I put clamps on them and then managed to lose less than 1psi per minute so I am guessing that she needs a top end rebuild. And, yes, I know about the boost bottle concerns but it was on there when I bought it and it's been fine so far. So i just wanted confirmation that you guys with experience in this area agree that it sounds like a top end rebuild and not something strange I haven't thought of. I've only been a Banshee owner for a year and a half and through reading a lot on here (and not posting much) I have pretty much gone over the whole quad and fixed some things and dialing it in, but without touching engine components. Thanks for the help guys!

nice idea!

pm replied. sorry for the delay!

i've got a set of fmf fatty pipes i was going to list up soon. they are on my bike now. the head pipes are painted silver, one of the silencers has a hole in it that is plugged with rtv, and one of them has a broken tube inside for the packing. not sure if it's the same one or not at the moment. they arent in the best of shape but $125 shipped would take em! i could probably get the tube welded and the hole welded shut for a little extra.

theyre a little dirty - i never washed them after i took them off.

i want the stabilizer but i have to sell my shocks first. i'll let you know!

i will try to post up some pics tonight for you when i get home from work. no signs of leaking or damage of any kind.

I know there's probably nobody on here that needs these but it's worth a shot. I blew a shock on my banshee while riding at Hatfield&McCoy this summer and bought these from a local while down there just to be able to ride the rest of the week. I bought proper shocks a while back and still have these sitting around. I believe they were off of a raptor 660. red springs, non-reservoir, roughly 15.5" eye to eye (on center), and are in pretty nice shape with minimal wear to the powdercoat on the springs. i can get pics if someone is interested. $75 + shipping obo.

my banshee has been a little hard to start lately so i pulled the plugs today before going riding tomorrow. this is what i found. i am assuming this is just an accumulation of unburnt oil? i cleaned the plugs and it fired up in 4 kicks or so again, and then fired up on the first kick after shutting it off. seems to have been my issue, but let me know what you guys think. 40:1 Klotz supertechniplate 93 octane from Shell plugs probably have about 30 hours on them roughly 1,000ft elevation stock engine fmf fatty's with fresh repacked silencers fresh rebuild on carbs 280 mains on middle clip 27.5 pilots and about 0.5 turns out on the air screws prodesign foam filter with cut airbox lid

just to update this thread - we resolved the coolant leak issue into the trans. turns out the previous owner hooked the overflow bottle to the radiator like normal, but put a tee in down to the clutch cover breather, and had no breather tube on the rear case. they were all messed up. we properly routed all of the breathers and overflow lines and are continuing to flush the water and coolant out. the clutch is still very sticky and hard to disengage but seems to be a little better than it was last weekend before we knew of the problem.

i just bought a full set of these from motosport.com and they arrived yesterday. two of the guys i ride with use them on their suzuki 450's and speak pretty highly of them. i wasn't planning to buy all (4) tires at once but since they were on sale for those prices, i couldn't afford not to!

i don't see the so-called picture attached for fun... you fail at the interwebnets.

my buddy wants stock gold rims in the worst way but has no wheels to trade you. he was so disappointed when i told him about these!

i am running a set of stock carbs with 280 mains and 25 pilots and it runs really well with great throttle response etc. i got a second set of carbs recently that are like brand new and am planning on putting idle screws in them and matching the jetting to my current carbs for the time being and then saving the old carbs for winter or spares. i have changed jets before and changed needle settings and all that, but was wondering if i should put new needles in when i put the larger jets in or if my needles are fine. some kits i have seen come with needles and some without. plus, i can always just go buy the individual jets i need since i already know which ones to buy... another side question i was pondering a while back is about the float height. i was messing with my pilot jets a while back and checked the float height and both were set identically, but slightly under the minimum range in the factory repair manual. what is the difference between the minimum float height and the maximum float height? i assume all that this changes is a slight difference in bowl fuel volume before closing the float needle? therefore by being at the minimum it would have slightly more fuel than at maximum float distance? thanks for the input!