sootman73

I rebuilt and cleaned my carbs, repacked silencers, and tuned the carbs. But now i have another problem. Yesterday i went to start it to ride over to my gf's house and nothing. wouldn't even hiccup. Its getting fuel, possibly too much, but its getting there. It has spark because i pulled both spark plugs (brand new plugs) and layed them on the pipes and kicked it. spark in both plugs. Why wont it start? the only thing i can think of now is compression.....? Today i had a buddy come over and pull start it. took nearly half a mile of it spinning to get it running. It would fire but die, fire and die. so we kept pulling it until it would stay running on its own. had plenty of power after that and i rode it for about 10 minutes after it warmed up. Didn't have a chance to see if it would fire again after i was done but i'm gonna try it when i get off work tonight. does a compression issue sound viable? i'm gonna try to run a check on it tonight and see what it actually is. i'm guessing take both plugs out, put the tester on the one, kick it over a few times to get the highest reading, and then be done? thanks guys!

But now i have another problem. Yesterday i went to start it to ride over to my gf's house and nothing. wouldn't even hiccup. Its getting fuel, possibly too much, but its getting there. It has spark because i pulled both spark plugs (brand new plugs) and layed them on the pipes and kicked it. spark in both plugs. Why wont it start? the only thing i can think of now is compression.....? Today i had a buddy come over and pull start it. took nearly half a mile of it spinning to get it running. It would fire but die, fire and die. so we kept pulling it until it would stay running on its own. had plenty of power after that and i rode it for about 10 minutes after it warmed up. Didn't have a chance to see if it would fire again after i was done but i'm gonna try it when i get off work tonight. does a compression issue sound viable? i'm gonna try to run a check on it tonight and see what it actually is. i'm guessing take both plugs out, put the tester on the one, kick it over a few times to get the highest reading, and then be done? thanks guys!

Wow she screams now! gives me that rush like my first ride on it again! LMAO i'm gonna put a 14 tooth sprocket on it and see what happens but with all the new foudn power i might want to keep the top speed! (buddies 700 raptor tops out at about 83) gotta be able to pass him! LOL

What sponsor is closest to northwest ohio? I would rather be able to drive and talk face to face with someone about it and not have to pay so much for shipping....

sorry i have been busy at work. I want to try some porting and a coolhead and see what that does but i know its a 2 stroke and its made to run high but thats not very manageable in tight turns and woods trails. riding a field its fine but running a roadside around road signs is not that easy to run the powerband around. so i got so many options i'm still lost. pro circuits seem to be the ticjet but then there are so many other options people have suggested..... so with some trail porting from fast and a cool head with maybe 22cc domes? (something that keeps me out of race fuel and i always run 93 now) what pipe would be best wit that?

I have two rebuild kits sitting here infront of me from FAST. they were pretty cheap with shipping and were here in two days. Really nice guy to deal with!

Well since i do mostly trail riding or along the road i would like to get some pipes that will do better on the bottom end. I have toomey T5 pipes now. I'v read that those are mostly high rpm power adders. So whats the best/recommended pipes for more torque down low? And if anybody has some i have T5's or a +6 swingarm i'd like to possibly trade for the pipes.

Have a 15 tooht front sprocket that the bike just doesn't have the power to utilize. Would like to trade for a 14 tooth stock sprocket. PM if interested.

hace you tried pull starting it to get some real air flowing through the carb? thats helped me the last week to get it started after sitting for a wwhile. i would def get the carbs rebuilt and then see what that gives you. you might be able to get it to fire from pull starting but it might run bad. go through the carbs and i bet you'll get her running right pretty soon.

okay so it sounds like its fuel related. Check the easy stuff first. is there gas in the carb bowls? are the spark plugs wet at all after trying to start for a while? if not then you dont have fuel getting to the cylinders. whats the status on the carbs? have you touched them at all since the motor work was done? if you have spark you should be getting some ignition out of it whether the timing was off or not. it might not run very good but i would think it would run. check to see if the carbs are getting gas first. then if they are check to make sure they are squeaky clean. doesn't take much to plug a jet. are the slides in right?

Is there gas in the tank? Is the fuel valve turned on? Pull the fuel hose off of each carb to verify fuel running. If there is i would go through the carbs and either rebuild them or at least clean them. are the spark plugs new or in good condition? (ie. not fouled) i would just spend the $5 to buy new plugs anyway. check spark next. take a plug out and attach it to a wire. lay it on something to ground the threads. i used my T5 pipes as a perfect place to get a ground and be able to see it. kick it over and you should hear and see a little blue spark. if you have fuel getting to the cylinders, good spark plugs, and power to them then i would check compression. not sure on you r setup what you would be looking for but someone will chime in soon enough.

Well im not so worried about drag racing though i will be doing some of that just between buddies but mostly trail/field stuff that requires quick cornering and turning. especially going around catch basins, road signs, and wood chuck mounds. But i'm gettin pumped for the crops coming off finally around me to get to ride more and get the speed up other than the road. my buddy wont race me on the road though i know my bike is faster than his. UPS says the tires are delivered too bad im stuck here at work until ten...... i'll throw em on while taking pics and let ya see how they changed the bike.

mine does this also so i'm waiting to see if the float nedle fixes yours also. Does yours start hard if you let it sit for a while wit this problem? mine will have to be pull started after it cools a bit and then you can shut it down and kick it back on right away easily bu let it sit again and you get this problem....

Well i got the stock swingarm on and wow a completely different machine! i about hit so many things cuz it turns so much quicker now! oh and then i checked the air pressure in the tires and they were all at 0 psi! so i put them to five and its a lot bumpier but much faster now! so much easier to roll now! so much more fun to ride now! cant wait to get my new tires and see what it can do!

and that wont hurt anything in the clutch system to run wot and top speed and just kill the motor? i thought i read earlier this week on here that that would well a ball in the socket or something like that?

so i found that i have a 15tooth sprocket up front last night. no wonder this bike has a crazy high top speed. thinkin about changing it but well see what the tires and stock swingarm do first before i change a bunch of things at once...

yea but i dont think anything would help those worn down dunlops that are on there. and im just bolting the stock swingarm back on now. should take about an hour to finish tomorrow night. yep thats what i was thinking.

okay i got new information on this whole dc ac thing and im pretty confident in my info. talked to a tech at trail tech after i found a pdf file showing how to "float a ground" on the stock banshee stator. i know that i have to be very careful to solder correctly and keep things out of the way but it gives me a floating ground to hook directly to the negative side of the battery. then i can run 12v dc power from the battery into the lighting system. as simple as that. he said i might have to run a second switch to be able to power down one hid light to allow the battery to charge as i will only get about 40watt dc power from this conversion. but for as much night riding as i think ill be doing i think ill be alright. i can pm you the pdf if you want it.

as far as i could tell it is and that the only time it wasn't plug and play was when you had to hard wire the headlight wires to the wires running into the ballast. easy stuff with some butt connectors, dielectric grease, and heatshrink tubing. Ask them to confirm that the ballasts can run on ac as well as dc voltage though. want to see if they tell you the same thing. And another thing is see if the capacitor is in place to act as a battery. those are my two questions i was left with.

Well i ordered my rear tires yesterday. Got 20X11-9 original razrs 6-ply. i though $150 and free shipping for the pair was a pretty good price. cant wait til they get here!

google banshee hid light kit and you get several options. i found this website and called and talked to one of the techs at the company. seemed like nice people even when i said i was still researching it. helped me out as best as he could. price is pretty low at $150 for the kit. heres the below. http://www.motorcyclehidlights.com/yamaha-banshee-yzf-350-lights-c-93_793/digital-hid-kit-slim-ballasts-p-209 3000 lumen power with the 3000-6000k temp(i dont like the bright blue color) says it pull 35 watts power and input voltage is 9v-16v. the only thing i want to clear up is if i need a battery. the tech said that he wasn't too sure on that but i wonder since there is a capacitor already wired into each ballast. i would thin k that if you revved it up and then hit the lights on that there would be enough voltage to keep the capacitors up when the first strong draw came one....?

Well i checked in ohio today and atvs can not be made street legal on any road. and to run on public ground(road rightaways and state parks) you have to have it titled and registered. and its not a ORV sticker anymore its an actual license plate. I find that kinda dumb but whatever. guess i get to do some drilling and bolting. but probably not until the michigan orv sticker expires which ill stay ignorant about and just assume its legal. well thats what ill tell a cop anyway....

yep choke tube is in place. whats the best way to seal up the air filter? it still has the stock box and when you dont have the lid on it doesn't seal tight to the side of the airbox. it would be nice to take the lid off and let some air in there but i cant if that thing doesn't seal up tight.... im gonna replace the crappy foam they used to seal the filter between the box and filter as its kinda deteriorated....

im just saying for the same money i can get lights that output 3000 lumens. its an option that i'm leaning towards. i think it would be best for trail lighting as you can see a wider path. the leds are probably great for the dunes but i want something in a large flood light + spot lighting so when i'm running an open field in 6th gear a woodchuck mound doesn't sneak up on me and send me end over end....