BOOZER2009

if i understand correctly, the only oil down in the lower should be from the 2 stroke oil mxed in the gas. So basically lower parts are coated but not filled with a amount that would need draining and repalce. Correct me if I am wrong.

would anyone happen to have a diagram for the tightening sequence for cylinder nuts and head nuts. The copy I have does not show numbers clearly.

DOES ANYONE KNOW IF I CAN USE AN EXTRA CHAIN I HAVE FOR MY YZ450F DIRTBIKE ON MY BANSHEE? A CHAIN MAY JUST BE A CHAIN BUT I WASN'T SURE IF THE WIDTH OF TEETH ON SPROCKETS DIFFER? ITS A DID O-RING GOLD CHAIN. WILL IT WORK? ASSUMING ITS LONG ENOUGH. ASLO I NEED TO BUY NEW SPRCOKETS. WHAT SIZES DO YOU RECOMMEND FOR GLAMIS DUNE RIDIN? THANKS

AFTER GETING OUT IN THE DAYLIGHT IT WAS JUST COOLANT SPILLED IN THERE WHEN i BROKE IT DOWN. HAVEN'T WORKD ON A 2 STROKE IN A WHILE AND JUST WANTED TO CONFIRM THE LOWER SITS DRY. GOT IT ALL HANDLED AND MY TOP END BACK ON THANKS FOR THE HELP

so what your saying is the only oil in there should just be whats coated on all the parts? when i rotate the rod you can see its bringing up some but not a lot. guess i'll have to dive into it tomorrow. trans oil leaking into the case seems pretty rare huh? thanks for the help

A buddy of m ine sod me his 2001 shee with the top end froze up for $300. Got all my topend parts ready to install but noticed as I spin crank while pushing rod up and down. I have oil inside the lower case. Isn't it suppose to be dry down there? Is the trans in a seperate chamber with its own oil that may have leak into the engine case? Any thoughts? I haven't really checked it out real good. Going to do that tomorrow. I just wanted to ask so maybe if I have to split the case to repair something. I can get on it tomorrow. Thanks

Just got frame and swingarm back from powdercoat. I do not have a manual YET and I am having a hell of a time trying to fiugure out how the white plastic chain roller and thin metal collar fit onto the swingarm so that the dust cover can slip over the end far enough to squeeze into the frame. See attached picture. Does the collar go on as my picture shows? and does is need to slidedown more to expose enough of the swingarm end to slide the dust cover on? I see the metl collar its sort of tapered for the white plastic chain roller to fit it snug on one side. Do I need to scrape some of the powder coat off so that metal collar slides down more? Because I can't get it to slide down any more then the picture at this point. When I put it together how I thought it went together I am about a 1/2" too wide to fit inside the frame rails. I'm bangin my head on this one.

so any length added to the stock length will make a smoother ride in the rear huh?

+ 2 sounds like the way to go. Your shee looks pretty frickin badass by the way

Not real sure what I as going for. I was worried that a long swing arm would lessen my ability to power slide and haul ass through the dunes. Besides it looking cool I also thought it would make the ride a bit better. I want roll over the peak of a dune with some speed and a good range of movement. + 2 sunds like it may be the key right in between

As I am in the middle of rebuilding my ride. I have been thinking about and extended rear arm. I ride mainly glamis dunes and sometimes occtillo wells (dirt) No drags. Does an eurended arm help in any way in turning and articulation? or is it good for straight runs only? Is there an advantage at all to changing my stock arm length for my type of riding?

Thanks man. I think I will do the weld a bolt trick. You saved me. Got my motor allready to go back in so just anxious to get is powder coat done pronto. I'll get some pics posted for sure. Thanks again

Before I go beatin the shit out of my frame and swing arm. I was hoping someone could tell me if the large hexagon type washer in the steering neck is threaded in or pressed in? If pressed in, can it only come out one way? If threaded in, is it regular or reverse thread? My problem is that this hex washer and the bearing are rusted in there and it seems like it should go in and out only one way? Second thing is the needle bearing cages are rusted into the swing arm at each end. Can I just beat those out from the back side with a long flat head? Trying to get all this stuff powder coated and these are my hold ups. Can't seem to get a clear answer on this from the manul. Help!!!!!!!!!!!

yeahI know the polish would look killer. I'm replacing repalcing top end and wanted to clean it up a bit without cracking the ottem case open.

Cool bro. Thanks. That tells me what I need to know.

Has anyone spray painted the case and cylinders? If so, did it hold up? Secondly, my rear axle needs some clean up. I am currently powdercoating the fram and misc. parts but I read not to do the rear axle. should I wire brush it and spray paint clear coat?? not sure what to do to get it lookin clean. help

How much do you want to sell those rods for? Are the ends somewhat stiff still?

what manufacturer makes the grizzy? Where did you pick yours up? Ebay? or any specific grizzly forum? Is the grizzly route cheaper then having the stock ones modified? Or iois that even possible?

Makes sense. I could see those getting pulled out possibly. FYI I actually found arms, spindles, hubs, complete brake system brand new never used off an 07. Selling for a decent price. So I may pick that up. But good luck on selling your stuff.

Right on. Thanks again. I'll shoot some picsonce I ge this frame coated and start installing

yeah, that frame is lookin pretty sick!

Right on. Thanks for the info once again. I think I found a complete 07 set up as well ( spindle hubs brakes etc..). I don't remember, did you use the 450 stock shocks? I am thinking of using the suzuki ltr shocks at 17.25" which if I understand correctly bring me back up to stock height. Trying to do this on a budget. Can't afford pricey shocks

Got it. Thanks

For sure. Once I get the frame powder coated and start to re-assemble I'll be in touch