glamisaurus

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Afetrmarket Parts: LRD pipes, chrome in good shape, anodizing on silencers faded $150 35PWK Air Strykers w/K&N filters $200 6-pack rack w/flag holder $20 Pro Circuit silencers, rough looking but no dents $20 Roll Design stock length swingarm w/carrier $200 IMS blue desert tank $100 Front Works shocks w/res, comp adjust $150 Rear Works shock w/res, comp adjust $150 20-11-10 Sand skates on blue labels $80 22-8-10 Dune tracker on black labels $60 I have a complete T-Rex setup to sell as a whole or parts. 68 bore stock stroke. The deck is slightly warped and it is on its last bore. The power valves stripped but I modified them to work. It was ported by LRD. Would be good for someone that needs the head , intakes, or power valve housings and seals. $200 Stock parts from a 2000: Gas tank $40 A-arms and tie rods $40 Radiator $100 Steering stem w/ Renthal bars $40 Seat, bluetop, black sides $60 Carbs, airbox, intakes, boots, twist throttle, cable $40 TORS removed, needs one adjuster for carb top Rear axle $40 Blue plastic, front shaved, tank cover, radiator cover w/aluminum grill, rears are uncut but have some white spots from tipping over $80 96 frame w/Roll Design pegs, clean title, peg bolt holes have been repaired $150 I am in Southern California.

The bike delivers extremely smooth power bottom to top and is used only for duning. I was considering tightening up the squish to try to bring back some hit into the powerband and changing the domes to run straight pump gas. The domes would pay for themselves in two trips if I did this plus not having to deal with race fuel would be nice. An easier option might be to leave it as is and maybe pull the timing back to run pump gas. I did a search and found that 150psi is pretty much the limit as far as compression and pump gas. What do you guys think? I am not out to win races and would like the conveience of filling up at the local gas station. Thanks for the replies so far.

Crank is welded. How much timing do you get away with? It is at +4 now.

The T-Rex uses flat top pistons and the squish is even across the dome. When I first got the bike it had a paper thin base gasketc ompared to what is in it now. I never had any signs of detonation running a 50/50 mix of 110 and 91. Changing the gasket is not a big deal to me if I will gain some power back.

Came across an article about this and decided to check mine which is at .054". Did some searching and found that .030"-.035" is considered optimal. When I did the top end a while back I used some thick gasket material I had laying around and the motor never seemed as snappy as it was all else being the same. Would it be worth it to swap out the base gasket to bring the clearance down? It is a 400 T-Rex with 35 pwk's, V-Force reeds, LRD pipes, +4 timing, lightened flywheel, porting, and has about 150psi compression according to my guage.

Didn't think of the crank being bent. I just went out in the garage with my bottle of soapy water figuring if the crank is bent the bubbles will follow the crank around or come from the same spot on the seal if the seal was cut. So I pump up the crankcase and bubbles start coming from the seal. As I turn the engine over about 5-6 times the bubbles stop and the thing has now held pressure for over ten minutes. I think this bike is possessed.

Put in a used crank and discovered the left main seal leaking when pressure testing the crankcase. The crank is perfectly smooth where the seal rides. I figured the seal got torn somehow so I replaced both seals and have the same problem on the left side. I have done this before without any problem and the crankcase would hold 6 psi for a couple minutes. The seal is installed green side out. Any ideas?

Resizing the pic didn't go so well but you can see where the power valve is bolted on. The cylinder head has T-REX milled on the top. A lot of oil comes out of the power valves dripping down the engine. I pulled them off the motor and cleaned evrything but they still puke a lot of crap out. The rubber diaghram inside looks ok. I was wondering if the weak top end could be from the powervalves not opening completely.

The T-Rex ad on Alba's site suggests EEK needles and 42 pilots. LRD did some work on my cylinders so the jetting would probably be a little different than an untouched set. It ran good this weekend out in the dunes. It does not pull very high in the rpm but the low/midrange is very strong. What do you think of LRD pipes?

The plugs look good. I think I will take it out and run it hard before I make anymore changes. Thanks for the help.

At least I know I'm not the only one. It was 40 degrees one night when we pulled in to Glamis and the thing fired right up. Usually it will idle high for a couple of seconds then settle down a little. I moved the needle to the middle yesterday and now it stays at the high idle with the 40 pilots.

I put some 40 pilots in it and the throttle response seems like it might be a little snappier. It still fired cold no choke on the second kick. It runs great otherwise. I just thought it was kind of odd that it would start so easy without the choke when cold.

CGK with the clip on the fourth groove down from the top.

Not sure which needle thay have in them. I thought that the needle doesn't come into play until you open the throttle. I'll open them up this weekend to check anyway.

I have a 400 T-Rex with dual 35 PWKs. The bike will start no choke right off the trailer at Glamis with one kick but takes a few kicks when warm. It has a 45 pilot jet in it. Leaning it out with the air screw doesn't seem to do much. I did a search and it sounds like the pilot is rich. Does a 45 pilot sound big for my setup?