bp12

thanks sav

yes, where to install them?

well heres the skinny i need to knows where to set idle screws after tors removal any help will be appreciated thanks fellas

so the question i have now is, what jet size should i shoot for (all jets)?

my elevation is probably 0-500 longview wa area

ok pulled jets the big one reads 345 0-8 the other reads 25 so im to small on those?

NOPE ! i didnt put no idle screws that is my problem huh? where do iget those ? i think they came with the kit but who knows where i put those at and how do i find pilot size? on the needle it says 5n7 does that help any?

ok been working on shee for awhile previous owner did not maintain at all and i got it for free so cant complain right? well since then i have rebuilt topend .20 over wiseco pro lites replaced all seals and bearings ,dual stage boyesen reeds fmf fatty pipes now its real cold blooded needs to warms for about five minutes before it will perform and when i get almost wide open i get a couple back fires , i also just eliminated the tors set up and am having some difficulty adjusting carbs . i can sync carbs up pretty good and slides match up with windows but in doing that it wont idle any insite will help . air screws are 1 1/2 turns out k&n 2 in1 air filter setup

thanks all i stayed with 14-41 it seems to do fine

so im lil confused do i subtract links ? im running 14 and 41 right now so 40 will give me more bottom eh not more top end?

quick question about gearing. was thinking about running 14 and 40 what changes have to be made and what would it do or not do for me

i had the same problem and i did two things at once so im not sure which was the problem . what i did was synced the slides to the windows in the carbs and changed my reeds from stock to dual stage boyesen reeds runs like a champ now also fresh fuel

well that tells me a lot i did not know that and that is probably my problem (tors) but i will be thorough and go through carbs again so all i have to do is unplug black box?

i guess what im asking is , what is its purpose (tors) and what will i benefit from deleting it . could this be my prob or do you think it might be a air leak? i put on new reeds and did not use any sealant . according to clymer i didnt need it . i just put a gasket . the thing i dont understand is why it ran at first and then stopped . also what would unpacked silencers or how would they affect proformance?

i put all new jets in carbs , have air screw at 2 turns out i rebuilt 1 carb at a time so they cant be mixed up checked my slides last night now i did notice left side leaking fuel out of over flow so will check that out. now how do you eliminate the tors?

well i recently rebuilt my top end and got it started and it ran good for awhile now it will not stay running i can choke it and start it but when i try to hit the throttle it will just bog out i recently rebuilt carbs as well and went over it twice. im pretty stumped it will keep runnin if i keep choking it but after that it dies . really fustrated need some input

WELL I STARTED BANSHEE AND IT RUNS LIKE A CHAMP WILL DO BREAKIN TOMARROW ALL GEARS ARE WORKING FINE THANKS SO MUCH

yeah i have a clymer repair manual and if i was reading right and as you said the hooks were sitting between two pins (centered) so my other option is to start it and check it out huh? i also have to do the breakin so hopefully it will work

i just changed seals last night and one thing caught while installing primary gear is the seal wanted to fold in as the gear is being pushed in and it may have folded on you ,also my banshee was running the same way before i found out my rings were toasted and it also had a puddle of oil on transmission side.

i just put a new top end on my banshee .20 over due to fryed rings . while in the process i needed to find root of problem and i did which was stripped out water gear (the plastic one) so fixed that problem and then i figured if im doing all that might as well change all my seals as well . so thats all done and back together but have not started it yet my question is how can i make sure my shifter is proper it will shift a couple gears but i cannot seem to find neautral . i did not move the transmission aside from changing seals any insight will be highly appreciated

i just ran into same problem and i opened up my top end to see what could be going on after syncing my carbs over and over and discovered a shattered piston ring and a cracked reed and after more inspection found a stripped out water impeller gear who knows cant hurt to go through it

i checked top of piston and the only things i see on top is a G and a arrow and a s on the inside as well as a # which read 1ua00 also when it was running crappy there was a lot of detonation going on in the right side . i only run 97 octane with castor 927 mix 40:1 ratio . what would bad seals do to performance and how hard is it to change ?

i just got my banshee and need to know if it has been bored out because my pistons have chunks missing off of it when i opened upand part of the rings were broke. the bike has fmf fatty gold series pipes and do not know if any other mods have been done the top of pistons have pings all over it but still ran because it was full of crbon residue so it was a old prob how doyou tell if it has been worked on. the reason i opened up was because recently a plug worked its way out and i put it back in but it would not run right it would want to shut off and sputter . so im trying to cover all bases at once and need to know if i could have damaged something when it ran with the plug out?

it hasn't mushroomed much but iwas able to move the swingarm from side to side before i even got the nut off,i got the bolt to move a little so cut it out is the other option ha? thanks

i have a 1999 banshee with stock swing arms and i cannot get the bolt out at all . it will free spin but will not move what so ever , any ideas?