SLOPOKE21

Rub dubs racing. This is my first time riding an override. I wasn't on the throttle to hard when I went to shit just a quick lil rip of the throttle and I might have let off before pullin the clutch in but not sure

Its a 2-5 and yes I can get it to start when I pull the clutch in. The shifter will move up but it will not go into neutral. I only went about 500 yards before this happened and it happened from secon to third and I wasn't even on it hard when I shifted and it almost threw me over the handlebars when it locked up

I just got my override installed today and I went to test it out and I took off and shirfted to third then stopped and went to neutral. I then took off again ang got on it a lil bit because it was still warming up and I hit 3rd and it locked up the rear tires and I can't get it back into neutral. My kicker acts like the engin is seized and the bike doesn't move when the clutch is disengaged but I pull it in and I can start the bike but it still won't go into neutral. Are the cases gonna have to be split to fix this or is it something small?

i got everything together and went to kick it and it started spewing coolant right out where the dome and the head meet. im about to give up with these o-rings.

I got everything apart and the plugs are still in. I got new gaskets put in and some silicone to make sure that it seals good.

yeah i checked them when i installed the cylinders and they were all in there. whats the trick for getting the o-rings to stay in place when putting the head on?

so i got an 03 4mil cub with a chariot head. i got coolant leaking off of the nuts on the bottom of the engine right where the studs from the top case come through. this is my first time running a cool head and want to know if the o-rings could be leaking? i pulled the head off and the o-rings looked fine but im gonna put new ones in. is there anywhere else it could be coming from? i did just have the clutch cover off but i dont think that has anything to do with it. my plugs are wet with coolant and i can tell by the pistons that its been burning coolant. are the o-rings worth a damn or is it better to put some silicone in there to?

if i have that 8 plate clutch setup though will i even need a lockup or will that hinson setup handle it? my mods: 4mil cub ported, 39 pwk's, boysen reeds, chraiot cages & intakes, chariot head w/ 20cc, shearer sb i/f, +6 timing or do i need to have a lockup for sure with this?

I GOT A BILLET BASKET AND HUB AND MY QUESTION IS WILL THE STOCK COVER FIT IF I PUT A SLING SHOT LOCKOUT ON IT?

SOLD!!

pending sale

I HAVE OTHER PICS OF CYLINDERS AND PISTONS THAT I CAN EMAIL AS WELL.

TTT

I WILL TAKE 275 FOR PISTONS AND CYLINDERS.

I GOT A SET OF STOCK CYLINDERS WITH 64.50MM PISTONGS AND AN HJR DUNE/PLAY PORT, MILLED HEAD (.032), STOCK CRANK, STOCK CARBS, INTAKES, REED CAGES. I JUST PUT A 4MIL CUB IN MY BIKE AND I HAVE NO USE FOR THEM REALLY. ID TAKE $500 FOR EVERYTHING OR MAYBE WE CAN WORK SOMETHING ELSE OUT. LEMME KNOW WHAT U GOT.

I JUST PUT AN HJR 4MIL CUB IN MY BIKE AND SINCE THEN THE CLUTCH HAS BEEN CRAZY HARD TO PULL. I DID PUT NEW FIBERS, STEELS, AND SPRING IN IT. I KNOW THAT ITS GONNA BE STIFF AND SHOULD BE PRETTY CATCHY FOR A BIT BUT I THINK THAT SOMETHING ELSE IS WRONG. I FOLLOWED THE MANUAL TO THE "T" AND MY MARKS ARE LINED UP AND THE LEVER IS GOOD SO IS THERE ANYTHING THAT I COULD HAVE DONE WRONG TO CAUSE THIS WHEN I REASSEMBLED THE CASES. EVEN WHEN I TIGHTEN THE CABLE ALL THE WAY UP IT STILL DOESN'T DISENGAGE ENOUGH FOR ME TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL AND I HAVE TO GAS IT WHEN I PUT IT IN GEAR LIKE THERE IS NOT EVEN A CLUTCH THERE. I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE TO GO WITH THIS PROBLEM AS IVE TAKEN THE CLUTCH BACK OUT AND CHECKED EVERYTHING. IM GOING TO ORDER A NEW CABLE AND LEVER AND START FROM THERE.

I HAVE THE STOCK GEARING ON MY BIKE RIGHT NOW AND IT JUST HAS A PORT JOB WITH SOME BOLT ON PARTS AND SHEARER INFRAMES. I JUST ORDERED MY 4MIL CUB KIT FROM KEVIN AT HJR. MY QUESTION IS WILL THE STOCK GEARING BE OK WITH THIS SETUP AS I AM PUTTING AFTERMARKET EVERTHING EXCEPT FOR THE TRANNY. WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD GEAR SETUP FOR MOSTLY DUNES AND SOME TRAIL RIDING?

is the engine still available??

hey thanks for the help guys. i was going to talk to kevin but i just wanted to see what some of you guys thought first. another question for ya. i still have the stock crank in now (not trued or welded) and someone was telling me that with the mods i have that if i go much more than a 20cc dome i was gonna risk separating my crank. the only mods i have are hjr dune/play port timing plate head is milled 32 thousandths pods and dmc pipes but soon to be shearer in frames. is there any truth behind this?

I HAVE AN 03 WITH HJR DUNE PORT, PODS, 20 OVER, MILLED HEAD, AND DMC PIPES. IM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT TO DO NEXT. EITHER GO WITH A 4MIL STROKER OR CHEETAH CUBS? I REALLY LIKE THE PORT JOB AND THINK THAT THE 4MIL IS THE WAY FOR ME TO GUY I JUST WANNA HEAR WHAT YOU GUYS THINK. AND ADVICE WILL HELP

i need the nut for the front sprocket. how much?

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE IN THESE PIPES AND WHAT KIND OF MODS WOULD I NEED TO RUN THE BIG BORES? ANY INFO ON THIS??

i have an 03 with dmc pipes timimg advanced milled head k&n pods reed spacers stock carbs. its got 320 jets in it and when i run 6th gear out all the way it starts to cut out and doesnt pull anymore. i tried smaller jets to lean it out but it didnt help. i ride at about 1500-1700 altitude. could my carbs be running out of fuel faster than it flows from the tank? i dont know what else to do

i have an 03 banshee with dmc pipes reed spacers k&n pods and timing advanced +4. i was wanting to upgrade my carbs but dont know which specific type or size to go with. so if someone could explain the different types or give their recomendations it would help out tons.