Balzout

It's a little risky to order the pistons before you have your cylinders looked at by the shop that is going to do the work. They will put a bore guage in them to check for out of round and can tell by looking, about how deep the scratches are to be sure they will be cleaned at a certain overbore. Most times it works just to get the next size bigger piston, but why risk it.

Whats up with the transmission? I see it's been cut but I don't know how to tell which gears and if it's duneable or not. The star does have one of the pins ground off also.

I'm assuming it's billet. It has no casting marks anywhere, real smooth. It appears to be a job to get a 14mil in the case, does this weaken the case to much for longevity? I'm not looking for a lifetime motor but I don't want junk either.

Heres the crank and the first pic was the crank also

Heres a look at the trans

The internals

This was the winter I would start rounding up the parts to start my project. While trying to gather info on what were the best pieces, I bought a complete bike instead to use the motor in my banshee. The bike was advertised as a 10 mil cub and price was reasonable so I bit. The first thing we did was tear the motor down to check the condition of the parts. The motor wasn't in the best shape so I'm glad we tore into it but I wanted to post some pics and get your opinions.

when are the straight cut gears needed?

This is the combination I was looking at. :cool:

Thanks for the reply's guys. This is what I was hoping would be the case. So loboboy on your cylinders is there a 2mil cut into the head and the rest of the height made up in spacer below the cylinders, then the timing is corrected with a grinder? Is this the biggest crank you can run with stock cylinders? I'm not leaning toward stock just trying to get an understanding. Thanks

Please bear with me on this one as I have no clue as to what timing a duner is set up to as compared to a drag port. So I guess my question is directed toward these people. I love my banshee and I like to run hard, it's just that I want more power but I still need to be able to ride with my family. My son and I just built an 872 raptor that I'm gettin tired of looking at the tail light of. I realize that a 10mil is not needed to out run his bike but I was wondering why this much crank had to be labeled "drag only". I heard that the port timing of the cylinders that were avail. for the 10mil were all centered around high rpm power. So here is my question, can a different height cylinder be used, either from a longer or shorter stroke casting, then use spacers or mill the cylinder, to correct the deck that build a motor that has a tons of power everywhere? Or did I hear it wrong and the 10mil already is a handful top to bottom? I really don't want to put together a 4mil just to have to change it down the road. Thanks