Balzout

Thanks for responding, I walked away from it for a couple of days and will probably have time tomorrow to look at it. I haven't checked the gap on the pickup coil yet. I just replaced the stator and coil and was in the process of timing it when I noticed what the timing light was doing. I'm having a dead cyl issue that I need to get figured out also. I was wondering if maybe the two were related. ?????

Light works fine, any thoughts out there?

I'm haveing a problem with my shee running on only one cylinder. I replaced the stator and coil and still have a lazy right cylinder. My question is, when I put a timing light on the motor, it seems really inconsistant. I mean you can see the litening holes on the flywheel when the light flashes for a couple of seconds, then they disappear for a couple of seconds. When I move the light to the other cylinder, it does the same thing. WTF

Thanks guys, Heathen, I tested the coil on the bench by pulling the wires out of the coil, so my readings are to the coil itself. We talked about the 5380 reading being within specs if we were to perform the test that way, but the sticky shows how to properly test it, guess not. I searched back 10 pages or so and never saw mention of it being done that way, maybe I missed it. Do I need to use factory resistor wires or can I substitute aftermarket wires? bansheesandrider, thats interesting the way that works, never heard anything like it. So if I have a bad plug or take one wire off it opens the circuit and the other cyl. wont fire? So the last place to look on a banshee that is running on one cyl. is the ignition? My stator has been rewound twice by Ricky Stator in the last 15 yrs. There was mention on here about longevity issues with his stuff, are there better options?

One thing to add, I just got back from a friends house who is Mr. Gotrocks with test equiptment and his meter read open on the secondary also. He says the coil is bad but my tester shows that a good coil is out of specs. just like his did. I didn't think to take known good coil to have him test but anyway, does anyone else have trouble with the secondary side testing. One more funny thing is his meter says 5380 Ohms between the two wires, is this normal. I would think there should be no resistance between the two plug wires. ???? Anybody have any thoughts.

I've been all over this thing with the tester and heres what I found. BTW thanks to tedd1 for the sticky. Stator coil should be 13.7 - 20.5 Ohms mine is 11.9 Ohms Pickup coil should be 94 - 140 Ohms mine is 111.1 Ohms Primary coil should be .28 - .38 Ohms mine is .3 ohms Secondary coil should be 4700 - 7100 Ohms mine is ??? Heres my question, I could not get a reading on the secondary side of the coil, I'm not sure what is going on here but I tested a known good coil and also got an open reading. The part that has me confused is,I could not get a reading between the two plug wires.????? I understand that the coil is a very durable piece, so my meter is F'd, maybe. Does anyone else have trouble getting a reading on the secondary side? The stator is slightly out of spec. Is this enough to keep it from running or could the untested side of the coil my culprit. The bike would tow start and run but now the more I dig, when I tow start it, it is very lazy, like 3000 rpm at WOT lazy. Any thoughts?

When you say +5* is that 5* total or 5* more than stock?

Are your pistons below deck?

So it's like the inner petals are super low or even zero tension, and the outer petals open with RPM?

Two parts to my question guys. I currently have boyensen rad valves in my bike, I came across some VFORCE3 reeds cheap but when you hold them up to the light you can see through them, is this normal? Second, is this a good reed choice for my bike? This bike has a cool head, advanced 4*, LRD pipes, and no port work. Thanks

bump for how close can you run the top ring to the top of the cylinder? thanks

I was wondering what was all involved in dome selection. I plan on running C14 in my gofast duner but I am unsure as to all the criteria involved. I assume final cylinder pressure is involved but was wondering how to figure this before the motor was assembled.

Well lets try this one, since the pistons are up in the domes about .100, are the domes supposed to be cylinder diameter?

Hey N2o, how much boost do you run? Have you dyno'd it or have an idea on how much power it makes? Thanks

You might be right, but cory was asking some very watered down questions. Haven't we all seen these guys before " Hey how much power could I make with a 20 mil" and you never see them again. Before N2o posted, I was thinking that cory was in over his head. Guess time will tell.

So now that you two have run off anyone that might have been some help.........I'm going to stay tuned to see the pictures of the finished bike. Plz don't let us down guys.

Interesting. I'm new to the two strokes and thats something I've never dealt with. Is this common to do to positive deck height motors?

If .030 is the minimum squish before the piston starts to kiss the head, would this hold true for the top ring also? How close can you run the ring to the top of the cylinder?

Who makes this case saver? I'm looking for a good one.

Interesting news on the serval cylinders, but I could find no info about them. Could you please post where to find them.

Is it a yamaha crankcase?

The star

I didn't post any pics of the other shaft because it didn't look to have any alterations. Here is the other shaft. Also the star.

I've got alot of pictures John but it appeared I was the only one posting here. I've since called Twister, really nice folks and asked for some info on the crank. The numbers in the first pic say that it's a 14mil stroke, and has Hotrods 125mm rods. The last set of numbers are the total number of cranks produced which from this they can tell you who they sold it to and when. Turns out this crank was built in '06 and was rebuilt in '08. The size of the stroke explains the welds on the crankcase. Now that I have the crank figured out I still would like some input on the transmission. I can see that three of the gears have been cut for what I assume to be an override. How can you tell if it's a duneable override and which gears are overridden? Also in the pics you can see that the drum has been regrooved. Whats the story here? Thanks for telling me the pattern might be changed, I'll put the trans back in the case and see what I can find out. Is there anything else in these pics that someone can tell me that maybe I have missed? I'll post some more pics tommorrow.

Nothing? Sure could use some help.