Burt Reynolds
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Posts posted by Burt Reynolds
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Another drawback is you wouldnt be allowed to ride at the places i ride
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Hp numbers in magazines like that are like mpg estimates with new cars. They could have measured at the crank,or just estimated.
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Your going to take a step down in handling unless you spend some $$$ on suspension
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Only draw back to the j arms for me was the upper bushings go out pretty quick.
heres s pic of my old dentons
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Yeah having even psi is a good sign,sounds like your carbs may be the issue. ALways do a compression check with the throttle wot.
ARe you taking the bowls off and the jets out and blowing compressed air through the passages. Whenever i clean i carb i completely take it apart. Choke,air screw,jets,ect.
Make sure your getting spark too
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DId you kick both sides at WOT until the needle wouldnt go up any further? If your cylinders were within 5 or less of eachother i would say clean and adjust your carbs,and rebuild them if necessary,but if there really is 10 psi difference you might have a problem. I was thinking though,if its a new top end,if one side ran really rich for a few minutes the two sides might have starting breaking in differently,like one side sealing up the rings faster. If you get your carb deal straightened out,run it for a for a little while and see if it evens up
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h129 is a hot rods 4mm stroker long rod
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Motors should be comrpession tested cold. The throttle most be Wide open ,either by the thumb or by pliers or you will get a false low reading. The most important thing about a psi test as long as its up over 105 or 110 or so is how close they are together in compression. ANy more than 5psi difference in the cylinders and you will have a problem
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looks like it may have been tampered with
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They look like t3's
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THey are the worst pipe you can possibly put on a banshee
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Stock banseee and yfz wheels have a different offset,positive on the rear not so sure about the front
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im glad you see the logic in what i have going on. today makes a week i have had this machine so thats why i dont have any data to compare to recent tests. when previous owner bought it two years ago before he took it away to where it was till i got it i recall the spark plug boot on the good side was defective and or missing maybe leaving the right side to do most all the work and maybe thats why its weak now who knows.. also crappy air filter seal cage to box had maybe been partially briched and injested some dust. anyway i will get her to run even one way or another i would just about bet anything this is the same top end that and everything else that it was built from yamaha with so its prolly about time to rebuild. anyway thanks to all the mixed replies.
The key point for me here is,one a bone stock motor,or a ported 4mil drag stroker,9 psi or more difference in the cylinders means somethings up,so the static psi did give you and answer.Even when banshee motors get really worn out,the psi can still be within 5. EVen if your motor is supposed to have 150 per side and your down to where you are,there is still a big difference between the 2
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You could completely remove the water pump gaskets/seals, and still not get water into the cylinder area,it doesnt work like that. If you have coolant in your echaust and cylinders its most likely a head gasket or base gasket issue. If you had a water pump issue you would be getting water into your tranny oil.
but running with a leak head gasket/o-ring and sucking in coolant will destroy a top end.
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just put a new bike togeather ran fine now it want rev and it spits from time to time its real boggey on the low end but does better on top end check the reeds they look to be warp at the end or leaking should i change them plus im missing one gasket on the left intake systems plus she want rev now please help sound like parking brake dont know
Uhm what?
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Hello fellow banshee owners. I'm a new member first post. I got a 05 bone stock doesent look like engine has ever been into. I noticed that right cyl was spitting and sputtering at times in lower to mid range. Idles fine pulls hard thro upper rpm. I decided to check compression before I started messing with fuel spark etc. Found left cyl to have 130 right 112 cold. It will finally build 120 after a lot of kicks. Anyways it almost winter would it hurt to run it the rest of this fall or am I risking more sever engine damage? Also are 05 cylinders lined or can they be bored ? Thanks
Your honda tech has sort of a point,honda/yamaha 2 strokes are different brands but definitely the same principle. Your psi is to far out of wack. And you CAN go further than 80 over,you can go 100 over.Just make sure the machinist can do a straight bore!
A static psi test only tells you one side of the issue. But if you know what your engine SHOULD be running psi wise,then static psi is a good tool to use to keep an eye on your motor.
It may run for a while,but if you let it go to far you could turn your 250 top end job into 500+ complete rebuild. Ive seen people let their motors go to long and have pistons shatter and Completely ruin the entire bottom and top end.
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10 psi difference is to much imo,sounds like the 120 side is going out faster,maybe not be whats causin your problem,but to me it would be a definite concern
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Ive got a motto about this subject,if you pay over 10 bucks a quart for 2 stroke oil,your wasting your money. I have run yamalube in every bike i have owned from an lt80 to a race gas drag ported 4mil stroker.
My motors last just as long if not longer than my buddies that are paying 12-13 bucks a quart,and during rebuilds of all of our bikes,wich i mostly all do myself,because im the community mechanic, I never notice a diffference in cylinder or piston wear.I have seen no difference in plug life or fouling either.
Run whatever makes you happy and sleep better,but IMO expensive save the world breakthru super mega tech ultimate oil is just a pricey gimmick. And dont even get me started on tranny oil.
We bought a 92 banshee back in 2002,rode to around 2007,dumped yamalube in the gas and cheap ass gas station oil i the tranny with no probs,in fact,that same 92 banshee tranny is now in our 4mil drag bike,still shifting and running fine. And thats with like super generic gas station brand tranny oil
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DRag=top end Dune=mid-top Trail=low-mid There are different degrees of each not sure about mx port,i know a few big companys say "mx" port its just a clean up port
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Could also be getting unburned fuel in the right pipe,and then it ignites after a while.
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Hey all, love this site. Its helped my truck loads so far.
I'm looking to do some mods to my shee.
So far I have:
FMF Fatty + Power Core 2.
K&N Filter in box w/no lid
Stock Carbs with 340 main, 30 pilot
Boyseen dual stage reed valves
Standard bore size.
I've done a bit of research and just want to confirm my thinking. I ride 70% dunes 30% trails.
I was thinking of doing:
Dune port
28mm keihin PWK carbs. (jets unknown yet)
V Force 3 reeds
Modquad Cool Head
Modquad Pro design noss 21cc domes
boost bottle
and 3/8 reed spacers.
My orignal plan was for a big bore kit like the cub or athena but read they were more drag setups. Please let me know if this will be a good setup or if im just wasting my $$
Cheers.
Luke.
Cross of the reed spacers and boost bottle and add a set of CPI in frames and your good
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Are we talking engine work vs engine work or a knife fight
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Send it out to be checked/trued/welded,if everything is all good and the only thing that happened is slight seperation i would just fix it.
Been long enough, gonna get a bike
in General Banshee Discussion
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The aftermarket is bigger for banshees,but,
Both bikes can still be built totaly from the ground up with aftermarket parts. Esr is about to start selling aftermarket cases for the 250r even.
If i was always duning,i would go with a banshee,if i was trail riding ,i would go 250r
i just bought a 250r,and the only bad drawback im seeing so far is that certain used parts are hot items,like factory plastic. People are starting to treat 250r's like car collectors treat 57 chevys.