lazzonya

solid bike at a nice price. needs some needle valves or float adjustment. craigslist ad..... http://allentown.craigslist.org/mcy/2495323865.html feel free to contact me with any questions & thanks for looking.

classic. Now all I need to determine is what parts bin Leroy belongs in.

came with a Banshee project I recently purchased (was an extra in the box). any ideas?

was wondering if someone could give me a length dimension on the lower A-Arm steel sleeves. i need to make some at work today and I lost my info on these. I know they are 15mm OD and have a thru hole for an M10 bolt. length is around 56mm, but need an exact measurement. thanks in advance!

shee... working on this project with grizz. where are you located and how much shipped to 18201. thanks lazzonya

need a good stock crank shipped to 18201. thanks in advance [email protected]

looking for a stock crank. PM sent. thanks -bob

Parts needed to rebuild a blown project bike. I would prefer cylinders 65mm and under and the crank must have no bearing play. Would also take good condition used pistons to match the cylinders. Could use a decent kickstart lever too. Let me know what you have shipped to 18201. Thanks in advance! -Bob [email protected]

just picked up an 05 SE with race cut front plastic. looking for a decent uncut replacement. i would prefer an 05 SE with decals, but i would be open to anything OEM and black. please no cracks or major stress marks. shoot me an e-mail what you have and a price shipped to 18201. thanks. -bob mail_laz @ yahoo.com

thanks for all the input guys. I think I may have put my question in the wrong section. Most of my riding is done in NE PA coal country which includes some trails, a lot of climbs, and a lot of old abandoned coal access roads. We also have a sweet "bowl" area that acts like a drag strip for us. i'm looking to keep my bike somewhat friendly on the trails, but at the same time i really want to maximize my top end. the roads we open up on are VERY long and I'm looking to stay with the Raptor(s) over the long haul. Sorry for the confusion, and thanks again for the ideas.

i've consulted with HJR and we've decided on a "mid to top end" port. i can remove my lid if necessary. what would be your recommendation to up the ante and stay out of that 4-stroke's dust (on a long straight haul)? thanks for the input.

how will this go down: equal weight and ability riders on hard packed dirt road. 2008 Raptor 700 Dobeck Controller Monster Duals Stage 2 HotCam & Springs K&N with lid punched Stock sprockets +1" on front and rear tires 2001 Banshee Chariot Reeds Paul Turner Hi-Rev's Fresh .020 Bore and Hone Ported Cylinders by HJR Cool Head w/ 20cc domes Stock Sprockets Stock tire size K&N w/ full box (no snorkel) just looking for a general idea before I spend the $$$$ on my 'shee.

I'm at about 2000 ft. with only Paul Turner Hi-Revs & a K&N (with lid on). I run 260 mains and 27.5 pilots. The 27.5's made starting the bike SO much easier. The 260's came recommended from the tech I bought the pipes from and they were perfect. Air screws at 2 1/2 turns.

I started riding this year and went right to the 2-stroke world. I picked up a cherry 2001 Banshee that was bone stock and got my feet wet. During the summer I also picked up a nice 2001 Raptor (also original/stock) on a whim. I enjoy both bikes, but I always seem to jump on the 'shee first (so I'm going to spend my off-season money there). I've added a set of Paul Turner Hi-Rev pipes, a K&N filter, and jetted my pilots to 27.5 and the mains to 260. The bike has been great all season. I haven't noticed any power losses, but I plan on giving the bike an engine overhaul during the winter. I've already replaced most of the suspension bearings, chain, sprockets, etc. I'm a mechanical engineer (so i can turn wrenches) & have access to a full machine shop, as well as a friend with a small engine business. Basically, I'm looking for some opinions on what should be done to the bike. I'm not looking to kill myself next year, just do some basic improvements while the it's apart. My budget is pretty open & I'd like to make sure I'm ahead of the two Raptor 700's in my group next spring. The have the basic "Big 3" add on's. Things I've started looking at: Bore out / Larger Piston Porting job Reeds Cool Head Adjustable Timing Plate any and all input is appreciated.

just did mine for the 1st time.... dremel with small grinding stone. carefully grind the needle bearing housing in a straight line (in and out of the swingarm) until it cuts through. once the housing is split a bit, it will pry out with a screwdriver. careful not to grind too deep and mess up your swingarm!

Can someone tell me the outer diameter and length of the upper A-Arm busings on a Shee? I need to get some oil-impregnated bronze ones from work tomorrow. i can get the inner diameter from the bolt sleve. i haven't gotten the delrin ones out of the arms yet (any tricks here other than drilling them out)? thanks in advance.

unplugged the 3 tors connectors and she purrs like a tiger. i guess it's time to get a removal kit. is it okay to run her like this until i get the removal kit installed? thanks again for the input.

will try this tomorrow and update. thanks.

i was thinking the same thing, but would a tors problem even allow the bike to start, run fine, and just die at idle? thanks for the input.

choke tube is in place. if the problem / dirt was in the pilot jet area, would the bike still start easily? thanks for the input.

hi. i recently purchased a one stock 01 shee which ran perfect. i've since added a K&N filter, removed the air snorkel, a set of paul turner hi revs, and upped the main jets to 260's. the bike was running great, but was a real pain to start when the engine was cold. i next upped my pilot jets to 27.5's and the starting seemed to improve. my needle clip has never been moved from the 3rd position. plugs are a nice light brown color. here's the interesting part. when i reassembled the carbs after putting the pilots in, i forgot to tighten the 2 clamps that hold the carb boots tight on the choke side carb. i ran the bike for 2 days like this with no problems. today i realized what i did and tightened the 2 clamps. all day my bike has not been able to hold an idle. a friend tried adjusting the idle screws on the tors assembly and it didn't help. i've been playing with it for a whle now and haven't gotten too far. i've gotten the idle screws back to 1 1/2 turns after the slides move and my air screws are at 2 turns. i now need to give the bike some throttle when starting and if i keep the throttle in a hair and the choke all the way out, the bike will idle. once i let off the throttle, or do not have the choke out, it just dies. all ideas are welcome & thanks in advance!

thanks for the input. by cable retainers, you mean the throttle cables?

will check them tomorrow. thanks for the idea.

first time banshee owner. recently picked up a bone stock 01 which ran fine and started pretty easy (engine both warm and cold). i've added a K&N, removed airbox snorkel, put on a set of Paul Turner Hi Revs, and changed the mains to 260's. clip is at position 3 and the the pilots are stock (25's). air screws are at 2 turns out. since the changes, cold engine starts have become difficult in all outside temperatures. warm engine starts are still fine. bike runs great at all throttle positions and idles smooth. all hoses are in place and the carbs are clean and assembled correctly. plug chop has given me a nice light brown color. need ideas on the starting issue. 27.5 pilots? turn air screws in? possible stator going bad? thanks in advance.

so i'm an idiot.... my left carb needle slide was not seated properly, thus making the TORS system cut off my ignition. maybe this will help someone else down the road who is clueless like me. thanks for all the input.