harbinger of death

1985 yamaha tri-zinger 60 cc three wheeler for sale. Runs great, but no baffle in the exhaust. Tether kill cord on back. 20-25 mph top speed. Located in Fond du Lac, Wi. $500 o.b.o. Local pickup only.I tried to add photos but unsuccessful. for pics email me at [email protected]

Do they come with throttle cable? Right now I have a motion pro twist with tors eliminator, would that throttle cable work?

definitely worth loading up and heading north my friend. dunbar is fun, the parish-highland trails north of antigo are awesome, and the chequamigon trails between tomahawk and fifield kick ass too.

your right bowl shouldnt have the tube in it, but it wont hurt anything. do you have another set of carbs that the bowls might have gotten mixed up or did you buy it like that? all the tube does is feed the choke, so its useless in the right carb.

the bowl with the brass tube goes on the left carb. its what feeds the choke

just looked up a replacement on/off valve from yamaha stealership-$27.00 thats for the whole valve or you can get different parts and replace what you need. thatll fix your problem with leaving a puddle. did you check your float heights cause that might be it too.

wheel #6 should be added-on the wheelie bar. lol If draggin doesnt work out for him he can always start a lawn aerating service.

he meant between 0 and 2 inches bigger, not -2". I run 22's on my shee for more ground clearance, but if you go taller on your z you might have to regear it

did it do that just the one time? or is it every time? seems to me that if it was not jetted right it would be in all top gears. I see by your picture you still have the stock carb tops, is the tors still hooked up? did it seem like it lost spark for 1 second and then refired? and either stop paying your mechanic or stop asking questions on here every damn day.

when i get done riding i shut the gas off and let it run until it dies, that way the floats drop and the needles arent even touching the seats. they last forever that way. the needles in my 93 still look good so it must help. also leaving the gas on can lead to other problems, there was a thread about a month ago so do a search.

only good thing there are the spidertracs on back. titanium subframe-RIGHT wink wink

hey where did you get that 1942 banshee? is that a j-arm? saw it in your sig so i had to comment, just messin with ya lol.

you should get some pipes too.

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it. I'll try moving the clip and see what happens. I read the pinned articles and from what I take of it is that if my mains were too big it would pop or sputter at WOT, so am I really too rich? I'd rather be rich than lean so I'll mess with the clips first and go from there. One other question- when it was bogging I had the throttle wide open, doesnt that mean the needle isnt even in the jet? If it isnt then will moving the clips make a difference? Thanks again guys, everybody I ride with have four-pokes so they are no help.

but if its jetted too fat, wouldnt it sputter at WOT?

I need some advice guys. I have a stock 2003 with toomey t-6's, stock carbs, airbox w/no lid. the problem I'm having is that at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the bike sputters and sounds like it is loading up. it runs great once I hit the powerband. in 5th and 6th it will hardly pull unless i pretty much redline the previous gear and keep it on the pipe. It was never like this on my old banshee so Im wondering if its the toomey needles. should I raise the clip/lower the needle to lean it out a bit or should I try the stock needles. toomey says their needles must be used cause if the stock ones would work they wouldnt send replacements. The slides are in correctly, 340 mains (which I thought might be rich at 10 degrees F but ran strong on top-no sputtering), stock pilot jet (idled fine), about 500 ft. elev. Please help me cure this. Thanks in advance!

well i guess im still waiting to die. the last time i got tossed up in the air it actually made the throttle close because my ass was above my head. to each his own, but i love my twisty

there must be a bearing sales shop somewhere around your area. I've gone to the one in my city and even with all the #'s wore off, they measured it and got me new bearings and seals and cheaper than a yamaha dealer. mine is in the yellow pages under bearings. good luck

the idle adjustment is in those big ugly tors carb tops so if you remove them you have to drill and tap your carbs and install new idle screws. Its pretty easy, just read the directions-make sure you understand them before you drill, cause ive heard of people drilling the wrong side of the carb. take your time, read and reread directions and above all else use lube when you tap the carbs. youll get it. its worth it too.

I love my twist, but you will get comments both ways. some love them, some hate them. motion pro sells twist throttle conversions and if you still have tors you can get the complete kit- throttle and idle kit. I have the vortex throttle-only 1/4 turn full throttle so you dont have to turn your wrist so far

go to mmatv.com they had noss heads for $156 brand new w/out domes. cant hardly buy used much cheaper than that

I was just looking through a snowmobile parts catalog and saw sparkplug indexing washers for sale. does it make much difference having the plugs facing the intake port, or is this another "boost bottle" type improvement? by the way there is a boost bottle in here for sleds lol

now thats what they should put on tv- maybe superbowl sunday

it's running good on top because its lean. they'll just scream when they're lean but you're going to melt a hole in your piston. I leaned out one side due to an exhaust leak and it sputtered like hell bottom and mid, but screamed on top until it went bang

I'm laid off right now so no money. just trying to do my homework/reseach now so I know what to get when I'm back to work. thanks for the help guys!