SSSSSS!

F.A.S.T. has a steel bushing replacement for the idler gear at $15.95 if it's the gear that is worn and not the shaft.

Irazr's on front, Razr2's on back on the Banshee and Y450. Been using this combo for the last 3 years. Like the Irazr on back also, just doesn't last as long. Not impressed with any Holeshot tires I have used. But if you are racing and there won't be any rocks then you probably want a softer compound and a 2 or 4 ply. The weight difference is significant.

Maybe using FZR600 frictions has something to do with it. How was your oil when you changed it? Dirty oil does damage. I read that Yamaha does not recomend using Kevlar plates with their anodized clutch parts.

This happened to me for the second time the other day. I am splitting the cases and replacing the shaft. Compared the shaft to another one I have and it appears that the gear just wears the shaft down over time. The clip groove was worn down and the gear had become sloppy on the shaft. It may not get the lubrication it needs being where it is above oil level.

You may have pinched an o ring when putting it together. Did you use grease on the o rings to keep them in place? Are your cases sealed good, any seapage? Water pump seal? Did you increase your compression with the head? I have had an o ring failure on a dome.

Eliminate chain torque. Soften up the rear shock, get rid of the upper chain roller and use a slider. Correct chain adjustment through the entire range of shock travel.

You would want arms that have camber and caster adjustment or you might end up with a Banshee that does not turn. Ride height will be determined by your shock length and the position of the lower arm mount. I use Timmy Boy +3+1. Don't know if that company is still around. Ride on...

13 is fun but you end up shifting all the time. Just go one tooth more on the rear to begin with. You will notice the difference.

Single carb setup is great. I have been using it for over ten years. With correct jetting and gearing you can have it all... Try different size sprocket on the rear also. One tooth makes a huge difference.

Try a kick or two or three with it shut off before trying to start it. Works for me.

Just go one step leaner on your needle position.

Maxxis IRAZR. Radial tire is great in snow and anything else. These tires have huge lugs that would have plenty of room for studs when they wear down.

I just got the T.M. case savers for the Banshee and the Y450 this week from Rocky. I don't think the billet models can offer as much protection. I have had two chains break so far even though I change them often. Cheap insurance.

New to HQ and thought I would help out. I use Scotch brand double sided foam mounting tape to mount my grips. Cost $5 a roll, very sticky stuff, seals out all moisture. With a slightly larger grip I don't hold on as tight which helps with arm pump. The foam also decreases vibration. Just use air pressure to mount. You can use it over and over again. Have yet to have a grip move a fraction of an inch. I see people using tape to seal up the axle and locking nut. I use sylicone gasket maker. I squirt it around the outside of my rotors and on the threads of my axle nut so it doesn't back out. It will keep sand and water out of your bearings. You can save 30% off OEM parts, 25% off other stuff at staryamaha.com through Feb 1. They let me know in advance when price increases are coming. My Banshee is a Vito's 404. I have been running the Trinity single carb for over 10 years. I ride MX, trails and dunes. Ride on...

Durablue X-33 is the best designed axle. No splines to wear out or castle nuts to come loose. Yes I have broken one in two but it was a bad wreck and the first replacement is free. I am not crazy about their posi-lock nuts.

jimbob is correct. I do most of my jetting adjustments with the needle. It will affect your throttle response more than anything else you do. 39 probably too big.